Vulcanite Stem Oxidation Removal. The Natural Way

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bersekero

Can't Leave
Nov 29, 2023
365
791
Greece
Hello all. I keep reading in several threads about Oxyclean, sand papers of various grinds, jeweler’s cloth, micromesh cloth, toothbrush, toothpaste, obsidian oil, power tools buffing with compounds etc.

While I am pretty sure that everything works, I have a different approach and use materials every household has.

I am a knife guy and for quite a few decades I’ve been using lemon to remove stains from my carbon steel knives. I cut a lemon in half and then I rub the blade with the half lemon for a few minutes. The stains go away.

After I sharpen my knives on the stones I polish the edge of the blade with a leather belt. I use the opposite side which is rough no gloss natural leather with no varnish. This is what the old barbers used to do to sharpen the straight razors. No polishing compound needed.

Back to the Vulcanite stems now

I use a magic eraser sponge (dirt cheap from Temu but every market sells it). All you need is a few drops of lemon juice on the sponge and then you rub the oxidized part of the stem . It takes a few seconds up to a few minutes to remove the oxidation, depending on how much it is.

Don’t have a magic eraser? You can use a piece of printer paper with lemon juice. Not glossy paper. The lazy way is a battery operated rotary soft toothbrush with lemon or toothpaste. Toothpaste leaves a rougher surface though. You can also use vinegar or coca cola but it takes more time. Lemon is the king. You can also use citric acid juice or crystalls diluted with water. It's the same as natural lemon. These are acidic and remove oxidation.

Now that the oxidation disappeared we have to polish the stem near the button where the oxidation used to be because the above procedure usually leaves a matt finish.

I rub the stem on the rough side of the leather belt for a couple of minutes. These days almost everybody wears a nylon belt but we old codgers all have leather belts.

We pipe smokers most likely also have a Peterson type leather pipe stand. The inside is rough leather. It’s the same thing like the belt.

Alternatively you can polish the stem with a dry printer paper.

The above is a one-time procedure.

Now that our stem is polished we can apply beeswax to further polish and seal the stem. I use it to waterproof my leather boots. We can also use olive or vegetable oil or butter.

Regular Maintainance.

After each smoke rub the stem with your shirt, a paper tissue or just your fingers. The fingers have some fat on them.

Weekly. Apply Beeswax or natural edible oil. Store your pipes at a dark place.

I promise you will never see oxidation again.
 
Last edited:

sardonicus87

Lifer
Jun 28, 2022
1,818
16,252
38
Lower Alabama
Or you can skip the maintenance and worries entirely by getting acrylic or nylon or other types of stems.

Honestly, having held a vulcanite stem in my teeth and an acrylic, I couldn't tell a damn bit of difference between them. I think that's all in people's heads, and if there is any difference, it's so marginal that it doesn't make the extra effort worth the hassle.

Vulcanite is super overrated.

We pipe smokers most likely also have a Peterson type leather pipe stand.
We do?

Love these lines like this. See it all the time, rarely is it ever "most of us".
 

bersekero

Can't Leave
Nov 29, 2023
365
791
Greece
You are welcome. We have all heard of acrylic stems. This thread has to do with vulcanite though. If you don’t care you can just pass.

Some people prefer vulcanite stems because they find them softer and more comfortable. Personally I am totally fine with acrylic. I can tell the difference though and I prefer vulcanite.

The thing is that if you like some particular pipe brands or models you have to deal with vulcanite whether you like it or not. Many manufacturers use vulcanite on their higher end models if not exclusively like Dunhill. You like Dunhill, you get the vulcanite.
 

bersekero

Can't Leave
Nov 29, 2023
365
791
Greece
If you are happy with your results, fantastic. But that's simply not true and impossible. Vulcanite material oxidizes, new or old stems. And for it to not return as fast, you need to remove material with sandpaper. There is no shortcut.
Thank you for your post.
My conclusion becomes after only a little time observation so I will take your word for it.
I will come back for a longer time review.
I don't feel very comfortable removing material from a dunhill stem though! Half the please for me is that feeling of the dunhill stem and button. Sand papers and power tools may cause damage and alter the shape of these incredible buttons.
 

greeneyes

Lifer
Jun 5, 2018
2,608
13,433
Photos of a before and after are a great aid in support of your suggestions. That having been said, oxidation involves a degree of "molecular pitting" that can't be reversed by an acid's reducing chemistry (reducing is the opposite of oxidizing), which fine grit sanding can achieve.
 
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bersekero

Can't Leave
Nov 29, 2023
365
791
Greece
Photos of a before and after are a great aid in support of your suggestions. That having been said, oxidation involves a degree of "molecular pitting" that can't be reversed by an acid's reducing chemistry (reducing is the opposite of oxidizing), which fine grit sanding can achieve.
I am sorry but I have no more oxidized stems to picture before and after. All are clean now.
I involved the magic cleaner which actually sands the stem so it removes material. A very minimal removal of course but still.
 

woodsroad

Lifer
Oct 10, 2013
14,318
28,364
SE PA USA
The Magic Eraser is doing the real work here, not the lemon. Without constant removal of the oxidation layer, and thus the Vulcanite, the stem will revert to it’s previous state of steady decline. Waxes, oils etc may slow it down, but as long as there is UV and O2, the breakdown will continue. There is no silver bullet, which is why most pipes made today have acrylic stems.
 

Briarcutter

Lifer
Aug 17, 2023
2,083
11,604
U.S.A.
You are probably right but I tried the magic eraser alone and it is way too slow. The lemon vastly accelerates the process. After the lemon drops the white sponge immediately turns to braun when rubbing the oxidation. So I assume my method is both mechanical and chemical.
I'm not saying lemon juice doesn't work, I've w never tried so I cannot comment, it does make sense though being an acid. But here's my thought, is it the juice or just the liquid? Did you ever try just water? Just a thought......
 

woodsroad

Lifer
Oct 10, 2013
14,318
28,364
SE PA USA
Weak acids loosen the oxidation, but it takes some aggressive action to remove it. There was a thread here a year or so ago about using Acetic Acid to do the same thing.

I wonder if acid affects the integrity of the rubber?
 
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