Sanding vulcanite stems. still learning
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I’m going to address this because you quoted me. I agree with you that there is a learning curve restoring stems. It took me awhile, I’ve been doing it a long time, I still make mistakes and still learn new things.If you are “still learning” I would suggest starting out with cheap pipes and ‘softer’ alternative methods and progress to sandpaper and buffers (still with cheap stems) after you become more knowledgeable.
To be honest I jumped in head first with sand paper and especially buffers and over buffed buttons, destroyed the lines and shank stem connection, logos magically disappeared, the stem ended up much smaller then the shank etc and I was left likeWTH did I just do?
I think you can recommend a softer safer way to beginners without being offensive. Of course, it all depends on how people choose to perceive it too.
I don’t object to using a magic eraser and a nail buffer. If you use that method on a really green old Grabow stem, you are in it for the long haul. But if you persevere and take your pipe outside in the sun and the stem still looks black, I will say that’s a job well done.
But I didn’t just perceive something. That implies the statement that sanding and buffing destroys stems can mean something other than it does. It directly impugns the previous posters who were trying to explain how to sand a stem. It’s a global statement and it’s wrong. Now maybe if the word can was inserted it would have been fine.
Okay, I’m done. I’m going to get a PM to knock it off if I keep it up.
I didn’t take it that way but I can see how you did.
That's like saying burning tobacco destroys pipes
Well...not too easily in some of the chunkier pipes of quality briar you produce, perhaps. But i once had a friend from the local cigar lounge that i used to hire often to help me with various remodel projects. He always needed the extra cash and i often could use the extra help, so it worked out. When i started also bringing my pipes to the lounge and acquainted other friends with pipes, he was one whom showed interest. 12 yrs ago i hired him to help me hang the siding on the home i built back then and now live in. At that time i gave him his first corn cob pipe and some tobacco to get started. Likely a bulk burley, but i digress. He enjoyed the pipe a little too much during the work day, smoked it way too hot, only returning to his cigars after work. I let him do all the paint on the house solo, after we got the siding up, which took him about another week. By the time he was done painting that pipes bowl was trashed and the shank had burned out so bad that the bowl fell off completely. At that point he bought another couple cobs and we started working on cadence and other finer details of pipe smoking so it could be much more enjoyable and much less destructive of an experience for him from there on out.
My point is a simple one: In the hands of the "still learning," maybe a gentler more cautious approach is warranted.
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Great thread for the most part. Am I crazy to say that of the 4 pipe forums I’m on regularly for many years, this one by far gets folks’ pants wadded up the fastest? It’s like the biker bar of pipe forums?
I dig it, just wonder why tempers flair sometimes. Don’t mind me and no offense against biker bars, tobacco and leather are a fantastic pairing.
I dig it, just wonder why tempers flair sometimes. Don’t mind me and no offense against biker bars, tobacco and leather are a fantastic pairing.
Were you around for the flame wars of the aughts? The big question on tobacco forums was to moderate or not moderate. A board would go under and the members would flood another board. Trolling and flaming ensued. Many people were banned.Great thread for the most part. Am I crazy to say that of the 4 pipe forums I’m on regularly for many years, this one by far gets folks’ pants wadded up the fastest? It’s like the biker bar of pipe forums?
I dig it, just wonder why tempers flair sometimes. Don’t mind me and no offense against biker bars, tobacco and leather are a fantastic pairing.
I'll correct myself here. (What I meant in this statement was without a buffing wheel) Now that I've thought about it, I believe it would be possible to achieve that "mirror" finish without a buffing wheel. With the right compounds and pad and lots of time it could be achieved. I thought about the silversmith's old, they sure did it without electricity. I've never did it, I just jump to the buffing wheel but that doesn't mean it isn't possible. Time, patience and the right material, and a bit of skill I'm sure it's possible. Polishing can certainly be obtained without a buffing wheel. However, I don't believe it's possible with steel wool or 3000 grit alone.
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Never used a buffing wheel, but yes, can easily achieve a terrific looking finish without one on any pipe - if it needs work to remove whatever it's not as easy, but not difficult.
These may come in handy for hand polishers. I've used them on silver but not ebonite. Just look up "felt sticks" I believe the one with the metal shaft is for a holder or an oscillating flex shaft.The felt comes in different hardness. The harder the felt the more aggressive it is. After the edge on the felt gets worn you can re-edge it by simply slicing it with a razor blade or sharp knife to restore the sharp edge. These can/should be used with polishing compounds. Some compounds are water soluble so just wet the felt and rub on the compound. Could come in handy for the button area. The larger one that I've used are about 1/2 inch square and about 4inches in length
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OP HERE! Wow, what did I start?
I dropped back to 1500G, 1/4 sheets. Due to the curves and shape of the stem, I wrapping strips around my finger to wet sand. After it's used up, to 2000,2500,3000, then micro mesh. By that time the oil to prevent oxidation should be here. Polish and treat to preserve.
I dropped back to 1500G, 1/4 sheets. Due to the curves and shape of the stem, I wrapping strips around my finger to wet sand. After it's used up, to 2000,2500,3000, then micro mesh. By that time the oil to prevent oxidation should be here. Polish and treat to preserve.
Good Video!
Getting a Rubber Stem Back to Black
Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldwww.youtube.com
Here is my take:
I use a specific sand paper that's a bit finer than what the grit number would suggest, but the higher numbers are somewhat more grippy than usual. This being said if I need to remove material I start at 400, then 600, then 1000. After this buffing wheel or micro mesh if you don't have one.
If I have an oxidized stem with no chatter even, I just use the 1000, but I rarely get to a point where the water would run clear at 1000 grit. I am pretty sure that if you are taking out vulcanite, the fine dust would flash oxidize in the water, but don't quote me on that...
I use a specific sand paper that's a bit finer than what the grit number would suggest, but the higher numbers are somewhat more grippy than usual. This being said if I need to remove material I start at 400, then 600, then 1000. After this buffing wheel or micro mesh if you don't have one.
If I have an oxidized stem with no chatter even, I just use the 1000, but I rarely get to a point where the water would run clear at 1000 grit. I am pretty sure that if you are taking out vulcanite, the fine dust would flash oxidize in the water, but don't quote me on that...
Are you guys talking about that 'Blue Oyster' bar?Great thread for the most part. Am I crazy to say that of the 4 pipe forums I’m on regularly for many years, this one by far gets folks’ pants wadded up the fastest? It’s like the biker bar of pipe forums?
I dig it, just wonder why tempers flair sometimes. Don’t mind me and no offense against biker bars, tobacco and leather are a fantastic pairing.
Because I've never been there..
This is my first day logging in to this one in a year or two... There's less issues in biker bars than this forum, bikers are some of the kindest hearted folk there are, until disrespected. That's why everybody's so respectful to each other, be it at a bar, poker run, gas station, anywhere really. You guys watch too much TV.Great thread for the most part. Am I crazy to say that of the 4 pipe forums I’m on regularly for many years, this one by far gets folks’ pants wadded up the fastest? It’s like the biker bar of pipe forums?
I dig it, just wonder why tempers flair sometimes. Don’t mind me and no offense against biker bars, tobacco and leather are a fantastic pairing.
Everybody is right. Sandpaper works, magic marker works, but someone still learning might want to minimize the level of abrasion they are using. I said "might", don't swing at me! I've also had good results with simple turtle wax for final polishing, though its definitely not the easiest or preferred method.
We deal with this kind of thing in my profession (has to do with things that fly with people in them), "the least abrasive means possible" is the key phrase, and its a good rule of thumb for other things like pipe restoration too. Hey I said "rule of thumb"! Relax!
