Anyone here a mechanic? Question for everyone is what is your opinion on oil changes? Specifically would you rather get a standard petroleum based oil changed every 3-5K miles for $15, or full synthetic every 10K miles for $30? Basically who thinks using full synthetic for twice the miles is still better?
Thoughts On Oil Changes
- Thread starter Old_Newby
- Start date
I use what my owner’s manual tells me to use and that’s 0w 20 fully synthetic.
It’s not even a question for me. I’m not a mechanic.
It’s not even a question for me. I’m not a mechanic.
Cheap (OReily) synthetic plus a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (as detergent) every 5,000 miles.
My son just replaced a lifter in our twenty year old 250,000 mile Suburban and said it was slick and clean, and the cross hatches on all eight cylinders still visible.
If you don't have time to change the oil change the filter, and use synthetic,
I follow the recommendation and schedule in my owner's manual. Deviation would possibly allow denial of warranty coverage.
DO NOT listen to anyone who tells you to use something other than what the manufacturer recommends.
DO NOT listen to anyone who tells you to use something other than what the manufacturer recommends.
Synthetic in newer cars is suggested for good reason. Usually they are higher reving engines and create more heat.
Anything prior to 1980, heavy weight diesel oil with all the zinc a flat tapped cam needs.
Its not really the oil you need to worry about, its the filter.
Regular engine oil and synthetic doesn't lose viscosity. But a bad filter will make your oil bad and full of contaminates.
Ditch the Fram filters immediately, they are trash.
Wix or Napa Gold....which are made by Wix, are FAR superior to any other brand. That's not just my opinion, its pretty standard industry wide.
But many shops are paid to use another brand, so you need to ask for Wix. Ive cut open 100s or more filters in my days. Fram are always goopy, and completely clogged. This allows particles to bypass the filter and grind into your internals.
Fram filters literally destroy engines.
The only time to go above 5W30 is if your engine has an oil leak, or you are driving a race car.
10w30 in very hot locations can help keep oil on engine parts while not running.
And, there is very little difference between very expensive oil, and very cheap oil.
Ive ran cars off store brand oils for decades.....so have my friends in the industry....from mechanics to collectors.
And "high mileage" oil is a scam.
Anything prior to 1980, heavy weight diesel oil with all the zinc a flat tapped cam needs.
Its not really the oil you need to worry about, its the filter.
Regular engine oil and synthetic doesn't lose viscosity. But a bad filter will make your oil bad and full of contaminates.
Ditch the Fram filters immediately, they are trash.
Wix or Napa Gold....which are made by Wix, are FAR superior to any other brand. That's not just my opinion, its pretty standard industry wide.
But many shops are paid to use another brand, so you need to ask for Wix. Ive cut open 100s or more filters in my days. Fram are always goopy, and completely clogged. This allows particles to bypass the filter and grind into your internals.
Fram filters literally destroy engines.
The only time to go above 5W30 is if your engine has an oil leak, or you are driving a race car.
10w30 in very hot locations can help keep oil on engine parts while not running.
And, there is very little difference between very expensive oil, and very cheap oil.
Ive ran cars off store brand oils for decades.....so have my friends in the industry....from mechanics to collectors.
And "high mileage" oil is a scam.
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Biggest question I have is where do you get an Oil change for $15 and Synthetic for $30 ?
I follow the manual and use Synthetics to manual viscosity specs.
I follow the manual and use Synthetics to manual viscosity specs.
I’m not giving advice, but I’ll give you two examples.
I own two trucks and both have over 350,00 miles.
A 2000 F250 Super Duty with a 7.3 Powerstroke. Valvoline Boue Synthetic 5w40. Oil change roughly $200
A 2011 Chevy Avalanche. Synthetic 5w30 LS Gasoline Engine. Oil change roughly $100
I get the oil changed between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.
I own two trucks and both have over 350,00 miles.
A 2000 F250 Super Duty with a 7.3 Powerstroke. Valvoline Boue Synthetic 5w40. Oil change roughly $200
A 2011 Chevy Avalanche. Synthetic 5w30 LS Gasoline Engine. Oil change roughly $100
I get the oil changed between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.
I recently swapped from Canola oil to peanut oil for frying. I can tell a big difference. I think peanut oil makes things taste better. Just my thoughts.
Absolutely!
Peanut oil has a higher smoke point, so, crisper food.
And it tastes better.
Well worth the higher price.
Canola oil AKA...Rape seed oil is a basturd oil and should be banished from society!!
In my opinion.
I was going to change the oil in my EV yesterday, couldn't find the drain plug or fill spout.
Some engines use oil viscosity as one of the parameters read by the computer to adjust fuel and air mixture. I learned the hard way when using 10W30 by accident instead of 5W30 on a Hyundai Sonata with the V6 Lambda. Result was 50% reduction in fuel economy and $1200 for a new catalytic converter. Lesson = stick to the manual, the sticker under the hood, or the oil weight printed on the filler cap.
My oil selection depends on many factors, so I won’t go into that but…
Tell me where you can get an oil change for those prices, please!
10k mile oil change interval is a scam. Change oil every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes sooner.