Would Any of You Use This on Your Pipes?
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That's not to say that those items pictured are wrong... As a matter of fact, those look to be very similar to the buffing compounds that ARE used for polishing pipes. Look at THIS article and you'll see that what you have linked to is similar to what is used in the article. Personally, I use Obsidian Stem Oil for my vulcanite stems, Paragon Wax for my smooth pipes, and Halcyon 2 for my rusticated/sandblasted pipes.
-Jason
-Jason
I actually have used the exact things you linked too. In my experience, I used them on a plug in hand drill and tried to control the speed by how hard i pulled the trigger. It is easy to go too fast and burn the compounds.
In the end, it was a waste and I ended up getting a better finish by hand using paragon wax and a soft cloth. I do still use the wheel with no compound as just a dry buff on rusticated finishes to get in all the crevices.
Don't waste your money. Spend it on paragon and obsidian.
In the end, it was a waste and I ended up getting a better finish by hand using paragon wax and a soft cloth. I do still use the wheel with no compound as just a dry buff on rusticated finishes to get in all the crevices.
Don't waste your money. Spend it on paragon and obsidian.
Yeah, I like to work in the shop because I can smoke out there while I do it. I also like to work with my tools and currently have everything but the right compounds. I am already ordering some tripoli and white diamond with my carnauba bar but I looked at them and wondered how well/badly they work. I might pick some up tomorrow and try it out on an old Willard or Brewster with a really gnarly stem and report back. I am a big fan of the right tool for the job and my arms/hands don't like the thought of the 11 estate pipes I have that need restored. For that many pipes, reaming and sanding alone are enough to make a sane man mad.
Thanks for the replies,
Sou
Thanks for the replies,
Sou
i would. when i carved my only homemade pipe to date i used soft wheels to buff it with tripoli and then polish with carnauba. i would also use tripoli to buff out chatter and oxidation on a stem. i locked my drill in the on position while it was mounted in a vice, allowing me to have both hands on the pipe. might wanna try on scrap wood or a cheap pipe while developing a feel for it.
i would NEVER use a dremel. that focuses all the pressure to one small area, making it very easy to cut a dent or groove.
when buffing any wood finishes with a wheel care must be taken to go gentle and slow; hold the pipe firmly but touch it to the wheel very gently. the tendency might be to go gentle with your grip when easing back from the wheel, or going heavily into the wheel when tightening your grip - those are bad ideas.
also, care must be taken not to overheat the finish. too much buffing at one time can do this.
if you're afraid to use the home depot stuff, go to the pimopipecraft.com website and buy their wheels and compounds.
i would NEVER use a dremel. that focuses all the pressure to one small area, making it very easy to cut a dent or groove.
when buffing any wood finishes with a wheel care must be taken to go gentle and slow; hold the pipe firmly but touch it to the wheel very gently. the tendency might be to go gentle with your grip when easing back from the wheel, or going heavily into the wheel when tightening your grip - those are bad ideas.
also, care must be taken not to overheat the finish. too much buffing at one time can do this.
if you're afraid to use the home depot stuff, go to the pimopipecraft.com website and buy their wheels and compounds.
I never use any machine or electric device. All by hand mate. You can really appreciate your work afterwards.
I would not use either of those on my pipes for two reasons. 1) the buffs in the first kit are sewn which are stiffer than the loose buffs normally used in pipe making/restoration. 2) the compounds in those kits are coarser grit better suited towards metal polishing.
They could be used,some of it anyway. In the first kit the white rouge would put a nice shine on a properly wet sanded stem, or put a nice shine on the briar-before waxing. Those buffing wheels are kinda small but should be OK in hand held drill that you have clamped in a vice.The other compounds IMO are suitable only for use on briar,used before the white compound--and only if you are stripping and refinishing the pipe or making one.
In the second kit the red rouge will work--again,on a properly wet sanded stem or to shine up a bowl before waxing.
I buy my compounds( and all of my other buffing supplies) from a place that sells metal buffing supplies,but some of their compounds are perfectly fine for use on pipes.I sometimes use the red rouge I buy after the white and I can see my ugly mug afterwards.
In the second kit the red rouge will work--again,on a properly wet sanded stem or to shine up a bowl before waxing.
I buy my compounds( and all of my other buffing supplies) from a place that sells metal buffing supplies,but some of their compounds are perfectly fine for use on pipes.I sometimes use the red rouge I buy after the white and I can see my ugly mug afterwards.
I would use certain items from each of those "kit" products. It isn't just the stem and briar to consider. Metal ferrules and stingers, screw threads and etc. also need work at times. As for using a Dremel if you use a soft touch and smallest diameter tooling you can do quite a bit with one. The drill in the vise works good and some of those items will chuck right in. Last, but not least, the price is right. :puffpipe:
I use the same polish in those kits to go over the straight razors I restore. I think they would be a little rough on wood. I've never needed more then some synthetic steel wool pad and some turtle wax polish to get nasty stems shining. the same polish will clean up the wood and rim nicely and then use turtle wax to bring up a great shine.
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