What's the skinny on stems?
- Thread starter iajaffe
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Welcome Iajaffe,
I have never personally heard of anyone having allergic reactions to a pipe stem.
As for the material used and preference for any particular type.
I would say, that for me, the stem should suit the pipe.
Be it a pipe that can be "clenched" it should have a stout stem like acrylic, or a thickish vulcanite.
For a heavier pipe that should be held, I personally like a light or thinish stem.
As for what I would like to have.... I would love to have a tasteful meerschaum with an Amber stem.
I have never personally heard of anyone having allergic reactions to a pipe stem.
As for the material used and preference for any particular type.
I would say, that for me, the stem should suit the pipe.
Be it a pipe that can be "clenched" it should have a stout stem like acrylic, or a thickish vulcanite.
For a heavier pipe that should be held, I personally like a light or thinish stem.
As for what I would like to have.... I would love to have a tasteful meerschaum with an Amber stem.
A whole lot of the variance in stems is purely aesthetic . As Lawrence stated there are also practical considerations too. I like lucite because it won't oxidize like vulcanite . But the vulcanite is a bit softer to grip . It all comes down to personal choice I think. BTW Lawrence amber stems are quite nice though they tend to be very delicate.
I like the feel of Vulcanite stems on my teeth because they are softer, but I hate how much you have to clean them.
I like the Lucite stems because of the lower maintenance needed compared to Vulcanite.
Because I do not really enjoy, have the time to clean as often, and partly due to laziness, I prefer Lucite stems. You can use softie bits if you find that the Lucite is too hard on your teeth.
Just an FYI.
Lucite and Acrylic are the same thing.
Ebonite and Vulcanite are the same thing.
I believe that Cumberland stems are Vulcanite. Cumberland refers to the style of coloring that is used to make it look like wood.
I like the Lucite stems because of the lower maintenance needed compared to Vulcanite.
Because I do not really enjoy, have the time to clean as often, and partly due to laziness, I prefer Lucite stems. You can use softie bits if you find that the Lucite is too hard on your teeth.
Just an FYI.
Lucite and Acrylic are the same thing.
Ebonite and Vulcanite are the same thing.
I believe that Cumberland stems are Vulcanite. Cumberland refers to the style of coloring that is used to make it look like wood.
I personally like ebonite (or cumberland) as a stem material. Lucite is hard to work with when you try and use it for a stem (specifically, it likes to melt), and I don't like that hard feeling in the mouth anyway. One thing I would point out is that there is a very distinct difference in the quality of ebonite used in different pipes. The lower quality rod has impurities that makes it more likely to oxidize and get that ugly green color. Good quality German ebonite rod, on the other hand, will take a much better shine and will hold that shine longer than what you would get from other sources.
Vulcanite is the same thing as ebonite, but generally refers among pipemakers to preformed stems which are not known for using quality rod. Cumberland is also ebonite, just a particular kind with the streaks built in, usually red.
Just my two cents ...
Vulcanite is the same thing as ebonite, but generally refers among pipemakers to preformed stems which are not known for using quality rod. Cumberland is also ebonite, just a particular kind with the streaks built in, usually red.
Just my two cents ...
Good Day to all Friends
I have one Ben Wade tobacco pipe and faced problems with her stem.I try with pure olive oil to remove the yellowgreen oxidation without any result.
i need your help and recomendations pls.
Regards
Miltiades
I have one Ben Wade tobacco pipe and faced problems with her stem.I try with pure olive oil to remove the yellowgreen oxidation without any result.
i need your help and recomendations pls.
Regards
Miltiades
Greetings militades : Try using a mild abrasive. Some tooth pastes will work. If that fails I find automotive rubbing compound, such is used to smooth car paint to be an excellent way to get the shine back .
I have tried using toothpaste on only one of my pipes and it took the finish off. Is this because I might have used a toothpaste with baking soda in it? Anyone else have this problem if not or if so what other brands of toothpaste or types do you think will not cause this to happen again.
I'm thinking about deleting my post now because i did a little looking around and gave it a little buff and put some olive oil on it and its looking pretty again lol. There I go not finishing what I started lol.
I used to have a pipe with a cumberland stem and besides coloring, it was exactly the same as any other ebonite/vulcanite stem as far as the way it felt against the teeth.
Isn't it the material the same as what's in most bowling balls?
Yes, its vulcanized rubber basically, but there are a number of problems with scavenging a bowling ball for a stem. Unless its a really old ball, the usable part is just a fairly thin layer near the outside around some type of unusable core, and so it is hard to find a long enough straight piece. Maybe most important, bowling balls are hell on bandsaws.
(No, I didn't try it myself, but I did do some research when I found out how expensive the ebonite rod is).
Toothpaste, as has been said, is a good method of cleaning the stem by hand. Even with Baking Soda in, it isn't anymore abrassive as say 800 grit paper. Don't forget, that after ANY abbrasive is used, it needs to be buffed. Whether that is by stropping by hand using a clean cotton strip (an old T-Shirt is great for this) or by a powered buffer wheel the choice is down to you. The industry usually uses Green Tripoli and a cotton buffing wheel to take off the oxidation from Vulcanite, followed by White Diamond. When finished, use a soft cloth such as a household duster to remove any traces of the cutting compound and give it that real shine. Acrylic is a much harder substance and doesn't oxidise the same way (or extent) as Vulcanite. That can be buffed out using White Diamond followed by a soft cloth buff. Amber, is a whole different ball game and extreme care must be taken if using a mechanical buffer. It might take longer, but I always do amber stems by hand and never use mechanical buffers.
Remember, the higher the speed of the buffer, the more likely you are to 'melt' the stem. Always ensure you have sufficient cutting compound on the wheel too.
Remember, the higher the speed of the buffer, the more likely you are to 'melt' the stem. Always ensure you have sufficient cutting compound on the wheel too.
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