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Staining a Pipe?

(26 posts)
  • Started 2 years ago by photoman13
  • Latest reply from deleon
  1. photoman13

    photoman13

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    I have slowly been learning more and more about restoration of estate pipes and thought I would try my hand at staining a pipe. I have sanded it down and then used micromesh to get it really smooth. My major question is regarding types of stain. Can you use regular wood stain? The bowls get hot so it was something that concerned me.

    This is what the pipe looked like originally.

    This is the pipe sanded and the shank shorted due to a crack.

    This is with a little water rubbed on it. I would like to make it look similar to this. Any suggestions for a newbie would be really appreciated.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  2. briarbird

    briarbird

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    In my opinion, leather dyes are the way to go. Fieblings are the ones I use. If you want that grain to really pop out use their USMC Black first, then sand at 600, then 1000 grit and use a lighter color to get that contrasted coloration. That's my two cents.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  3. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Do they sell those dyes at local hardware stores or do I have to buy them online?

    Posted 2 years ago #
  4. carlosviet

    carlosviet

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    Proved, used, recommended and complimented method: A mix (50-50) of brown shoe polish and antiseptic iodine (in any pharmacy, OTC). Spread well, let it dry one night and buff later by hand with a piece of cloth until it does not mark the cloth. It turns rustic wood into a noble and glossy bruyere finish.

    Please, notice that you must use tin shoe wax:

    Do not use the easy and fast one: . That one only taints

    Posted 2 years ago #
  5. nsfisher

    nsfisher

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    If you truely want to make a beautiful looking pipe with no stain or varnishes mate, just rub Extra Virgin Olive Oil in the wood. Next week rub it in again, and again the next week. You will find the "Look" that you were looking for in your picture.

    If at first you don't succeed, have another bowl.
    Posted 2 years ago #
  6. ejames

    ejames

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    The Fiebings alcohol based stains should be available at good hobby or leathers or online. The have a wide variety of colors.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  7. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Thanks guys I really appreciate all the answers. I probably would have gone a completely different way and screwed it all up.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  8. grizzly86

    grizzly86

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    Post some pics when you are done. That pipe has some beautiful grain.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  9. jameral

    jameral

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    +1 on the Fiebings. Look forward to seeing the finished product.

    Know your limits but always push the envelope.

    I don't trust air I can't see.
    Posted 2 years ago #
  10. ssjones

    ssjones

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    I'm with ejames, Fiebings shoe dye is great. I have three colors, black, medium brown and oxblood. You really have to thin them down to get a light stain, just mix in some alchohol and a touch of dye. I just duplicate what Steven Laug (NASPC newsletter contributor, etc.) does:
    http://smokersforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=102196

    The good news is, if you goof up, start over!

    Al

    Posted 2 years ago #
  11. cajunguy

    Cajunguy

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    I'll throw in another vote for Fiebing. It's what I use almost every day. If you don't have a Tandy Leather store near your house, you can try Pipe Maker's Emporium on the internet. They even have a variety box. PIMO Pipecraft has soluble dyes that you mix yourself. That way, you can determine the lightness/darkness of the stain by how much stain powder you use.

    There are several reasons to stick with the alcohol based dyes: the alcohol evaporates quickly, meaning a faster dry time; and the dye component, I believe, is vegetable based, which means its non-toxic.

    As Briarbird stated, what you're looking for is a contrast stain. Coat it with black to get the dye into the softer grain lines (I like rubbing it in), sand until the harder grain is lighter, then coat with a brighter stain.

    "It's like, how much more black could this be? and the answer is none. None more black." - Nigel Tufnel, Spinal Tap
    Posted 2 years ago #
  12. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Will the Fiebings method give it a glossy shine? or do I just use carnuba wax to achieve that.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  13. ssjones

    ssjones

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    Will the Fiebings method give it a glossy shine? or do I just use carnuba wax to achieve that.

    No, you'll have to buff the briar with White Diamond to bring up a shine, than finish with carnuba wax.

    Cajunguy: using the PIMO stains, is it necessary to "set" the stain with a flame, like the Fieberlings? That step was a little scary to me

    Posted 2 years ago #
  14. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Any methods that don't require a buffer? I do have carnuba wax from walker briar works that doesn't require a buffer. Sorry I am such a newbie guys.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  15. tobakenist

    tobakenist

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    If you want to use more natural dye's, a wet tea bag is great, I got a brilliant effect by just rubbing with green Grass, a nice reddish Orangey one using Paprika, if you just look around you can find hundreds of natural Dye's.

    Regards Ken,
    I am not young enough to know everything.
    Posted 2 years ago #
  16. cajunguy

    Cajunguy

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    Cajunguy: using the PIMO stains, is it necessary to "set" the stain with a flame, like the Fieberlings? That step was a little scary to me

    You don't necessarily have to set either with a flame. I use very light coats and find they often dry before I even think about setting them on fire. I use a pipe cleaner bent in an arc and apply a thin coat, then wipe off the excess. If I want a darker shade, I add another coat, et cetera. No flame required.

    And Photoman, do a web search for Paragon (smooth grain) and Halcyon (rusticated) waxes. These can be used in lieu of carnuba. Apply, let dry, buff off with a soft cloth (like flannel). The shine isn't as pronounced, but its a good alternative. Also, I will say, the majority of the shine on my pipes comes from sanding (I go up to 12k grit). After that, I require very little white diamond or carnuba to achieve a very shiny effect.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  17. ssjones

    ssjones

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    Thanks, I'll give that a try. I had a lot of wet stain on my last pipe, it really caught fire and left a burn mark I had to sand back out.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  18. photoman13

    photoman13

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    The wax I have works pretty good without a buffer. I just wasn't sure if there was some sort of glossy dye or something similar.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  19. ejames

    ejames

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    After you apply the stain the surface will have a soft kinda fuzzy look to it from the grain raising. It will not shine with just the wax-not like it should anyway. If you don't have a buffer go over it with some of the finer Micro-Mesh grits or some 1200-1500 grit sandpaper then wax.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  20. photoman13

    photoman13

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    thanks for the tip. I will order some micro mesh. I currently only have up to 3000

    Posted 2 years ago #
  21. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Maybe that would work?

    Posted 2 years ago #
  22. cajunguy

    Cajunguy

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    I've posted a link to these guys before, but I'll post it again so no searching is necessary:

    Alpha Abrasives

    They offer the cheapest micromesh kits I've seen. I use them daily. Very good quality and, if you keep maintain them, last a long time.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  23. photoman13

    photoman13

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    Thanks for the link Cajunguy

    Posted 2 years ago #
  24. pentangle

    pentangle

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    Sand with a 400 grit.Sand again with a 800 grit then stain with an alchol dark brown (better than black) then sand with a 1000/1200 grit .At finally stain with alchol mixed stain (about 40%yellow+40%orange+10%red+10%walnut).Carnauba with a speed around 1000 rpm will be the last step
    Maurizio

    turn on,tune in,drop out
    Posted 2 years ago #
  25. rakntur

    rakntur

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    The advice so far has been good and diverse. I just wanted to add one thing: whatever you do, avoid polyurethane finishes of the type used for furniture, as they inhibit the wood's ability to breathe and therefore end up damaging a pipe because of the necessary heat in the process of smoking it. As a minimalist, in general I prefer to sand pipes thoroughly, then finish them with a simple coat or two of Halcyon II or other appropriate wax to bring out the wood's maximum natural luster, but right now I'm using the shoe polish technique to be finished with a waxing perhaps.

    Many years later, as he faced the firing squad, Colonel Aureliano Buendía was to remember that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice. —Gabriel García Márquez, One Hundred Years of Solitude
    Posted 1 year ago #
  26. deleon

    deleon

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    I use Fieblings leather dye, no one in my area sells a variety of colors so I order mine through ebay, even with shipping they're still cheaper. For you pipe restoration I think the british tan color would look great! I recently finished a Ben Wade pipe that I restored used the color mahogany as my first dark coat and then sanded it down with some 400 grit sandpaper and applied yellow as the second coat. The trick is to do only one stroke as you move around staining the pipe if not you'll start to get the two color to mix and it turns into a mess. then buff and wax and enjoy!

    Posted 1 year ago #

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