Question on Clean Up/ Polishing

gmwolford · Aug 8, 2012

Last weekend I picked up my first used pipe. It was nasty but with some help for you guys and a lot of reading I got the stem unclogged and every thing cleaned up/sanitized so it's smokable again. In fact I got to try her out and am really happy with how she smokes. So, now I'm interested in making her "purty" again! I have a good idea on the stem but don't know how to start with the briar. I don't think I want to strip it and start from scratch, just clean and polish it to look like it was originally or as close as I can get; I'll decide on going full bore, so to speak, after I see what's under the "patina" of dirt and grime.
I don't have a buffing wheel or drill press, just a hand drill and Dremel, as far as tools go. Suggestions as what to start with and how to proceed please?

nsfisher · Aug 8, 2012

Need a pic or two to be able to determine the present condition.

grizzly86 · Aug 8, 2012

If the bowl is just dirty try a stiff nylon brush and some spit. That should clean up the dirt and grime; then I polish my up with Brichwood Casey gun and reel cloth.

hobie1dog · Aug 8, 2012

This thread is worthless without pics :mrgreen:
A picture is worth a thousand words they say. :D

kabong30 · Aug 8, 2012

I restore all my used pipes by hand. I'm worries that if I start using power tools I'll screw it up.

hauntedmyst · Aug 8, 2012

Get a buffer. It makes things much easier. Plus, you know your pipe is done when the buffer launches your pipe.

gmwolford · Aug 8, 2012

Sorry guys, I thought I pasted in a link. Here is the folder with several photos:

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/Greg_Wolford/

ejames · Aug 8, 2012

I'd pick up these items-- Halcyon II and Paragon pipe waxes.Both can be applied and buffed by hand. I like to use the Paragon on stems,it cannot be used on rusticated pipes. Available here-- http://finepipes.com/ . 0000 (4-0) steel wool. Good for going over a bowl that has a bad finish,especially some of the cheaper "drug store" pipe. It will clean up the briar and remove some scratches etc. with out taking off all of the stain.Also good for shining up any metals on your pipes-not silver though.Finish up with some Micro-Mesh for a better shine.

Micro-Mesh,you can put a nice shine on a stem or bowl with this stuff and some elbow grease.It can and will remove stain from a bowl.Best used wet on stems,it will last longer.

Some guys use Murphys oil soap to clean crud off the bowl. Let the bowl dry well before waxing.

Be careful using a Dremel on a pipe,especially the stem. It can melt a stem in the blink of an eye if not careful.

Some use a Dremel to apply carnuba with good results. There are some cheap buffers on Ebag and Amazon for around $40.00.

gwtwdbss · Aug 8, 2012

That rim is gonna need a little work. I have had success with these 3 products:
Denicare MOUTHPIECE (STEM) POLISH 16g
Denicare PIPE BOWL (BRIAR) POLISH
Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil - 15ml
ejames knows his stuff and and his suggestions seem spot on. I have been wanting to try some of that Micro-Mesh sandpaper myself.

thatbeetleguy · Aug 9, 2012

@ejames: What grit size of Micro-Mesh pads are you talking about? To double check, you are talking about grade #0000 steel wool correct? I just wanted to clarify what is being discussed (I like to avoid assuming anything as much as possible as well). I definitely have to give your methodology a try for sure. : puffy

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gmwolford · Aug 9, 2012

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! It looks like I'm going to need to add some supplies to properly and efficiently try this.
On the Dremel I mentioned, I meant for the wood not the stems. I think I melted something already trying to use it on a plastic type thing just can't recall what it was…
As for the top of the bowl, if I decide I want to "go there", how should I proceed (other than cautiously)?

ejames · Aug 9, 2012

@ejames: What grit size of Micro-Mesh pads are you talking about? To double check, you are talking about grade #0000 steel wool correct? I just wanted to clarify what is being discussed (I like to avoid assuming anything as much as possible as well). I definitely have to give your methodology a try for sure.

Micro-Mesh is available in a variety pack--has several pads or sheets in various grits. The one I buy has grits from 1500 to 12000 IIRC. That is the correct grade of steel wool.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! It looks like I'm going to need to add some supplies to properly and efficiently try this.
On the Dremel I mentioned, I meant for the wood not the stems. I think I melted something already trying to use it on a plastic type thing just can't recall what it was…
As for the top of the bowl, if I decide I want to "go there", how should I proceed (other than cautiously)?

I looked at your pics on Photobucket but couldn't get them to magnify or enlarge,so I couldn't really see a lot of detail. From what I did see that bulldog looks to be a good solid pipe. Can't tell if the rim is charred or just has crud buildup. If it is just crud,use a damp rag and scrub it off(or a Q-tip). May need to dampen and let soak for a bit. Alcohol works quicker and on a well seasoned pipe won't affect the color much-if any.

I sometimes scrape the heaviest crud off with a sharp X-acto knife.Hold the blade a slight angle and drag across the rim lightly to get the heavy stuff off,then finish with a rag or Q-tip. If it is charred(burnt) the only way to fix it is topping the bowl,but I wouldn't worry about it unless you wanted to do a complete re-finishing.

clyde · Aug 9, 2012

For the top rim of the bowl, remove as much crud as possible being careful not to scratch or gouge the rim. After that use common rubbing alcohol sparingly until clear clean wood is visible. Use actual sandpaper laying on a flat plate (glass works good) and rub the bowl while holding the rim flat on the sandpaper and moving in a circle that moves outward in spiral fashion. Repeat with finer and finer grades of paper until you are happy that it's scratch free and uniform in color. At this point you need to decide if you want to stain, seal, or do nothing. Even if you do nothing, just smoke away, the rim will eventually color and all you need do is use a cotton cloth to wipe/polish the rim after each smoke. You can of course spend some money on other methods, especially if you forsee wanting to work on other acquisitions in the future. For an overall shine you can use your Dremel if you have a flannel flap wheel which Dremel does make. Many use Lemon Pledge or Favor furniture wax rather than Carnauba wax. I don't use either as I believe it seals the wood similar to varnish or shellac. But that's just an opinion. Now read on to other posts for 9,999 more suggestions. :mrgreen:

shaintiques · Aug 9, 2012

I use a polishing pad on a dremel to apply carnuba wax from a blcok, normally for rusticated pipes, but it should work on smooth too. It will melt stems however so make sure you remove the stem when applying the wax. Use one wheel to apply, then a clean one to polish.

thatbeetleguy · Aug 9, 2012

@ejames: If I understand this right, you use the 1500 grit through 12000 grit Micro-mesh pads to shine up the briar wood after using the steel wool?

cynyr · Aug 9, 2012

That's a nice bulldog. The rim has some "character", yes, but if you have a stout heart clyde's advice will carry you thru nicely.

ejames · Aug 9, 2012

@ejames: If I understand this right, you use the 1500 grit through 12000 grit Micro-mesh pads to shine up the briar wood after using the steel wool?
Actually I use a buffer,but the Micro Mesh will do the job. You could probably start with a higher grit than 1500,say 3200 or 4000. Start with the highest grit that will do the job. You can always drop to a lower grit if needed. If your Micro Mesh loads up and stops working it can be washed in warm soapy water to clean it.With patience and elbow grease the Micro-Mesh will put a nice shine on a pipe.

ssjones · Aug 9, 2012

I'd echo what ejames says. If you don't wan to order micromesh (You'll likely not find it anywhere locally), you can get a 3000 grit pad sandpaper at Advance Auto or Autozone and use it wet. You'd also be surprised what some spit on a rag will do to remove buildup on top of the bowl.

It is hard to see exactly what you have from those small pictures. I wouldn't use steel wool on a pipe unless I was going to restain it. A little white diamond with a buffing wheel will really shine up that briar. Tripoli if you are careful and it needs a little extra polish. I used a buffing wheel on a hand drill before setting up a bench buffer, it did a better job than my Dremel, which was just too darn fast RPM-wise.

gmwolford · Aug 10, 2012

Wow, a ton of great responses; thank you all again! I'm going to put some of these ideas to work this weekend and try to get better photos uploaded when I do.
I did use some steam (damp cloth then apply a hot butter knife) to pop the rim out some; it looks a lot more even now. I think that it is charred but will have to investigate further to know for sure. I can see some pretty nice grain under what I perceive as crude and would like to get that to show more if I can.
I'll look for some finer grit wet/dry paper this weekend, too. Micro mesh seems to be elusive locally as was suggested it might be. And I think I'll peruse Amazon to see what I might find as to a buffer; I can see where it would come in real handy!

sailorsmoke · Aug 10, 2012

anyone ever use a vinegar solution to clean a pipe?

Question on Clean Up/ Polishing

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