I recently purchased an estate Comoy second Royal Coachman and upon receiving the pipe when I suck or puff through the pipe it makes a whistling noise. I was wondering if this was normal or if there is anything to do to help it from doing this.
Pipe Whistle?
- Thread starter wallbright
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Is it new? If so there may be a piece of briar still in the shank or at the bottom of the bowl. If it's in the bottom of the bowl you should be able to scrape it out or like I have done in the past use a U shaped carving tool to remove it. If it's in the shank, I'm not sure what you could do if it is still attached. Maybe drill it out (he said sheepishly) or just take or send it back and ask there is something that can be done.
No it's an estate pipe idk what to do. I suppose it is normal it's not a whistle whistle just a little more than a sucky sound.
This is a common occurrence on quite a few inexpensive pipes (and some not so inexpensive pipes). Sometimes it has to do with different diameters in the airway. Like a slight difference in the sizes of the hole between the shank and the stem. It is annoying, but nothing to really worry about.
At least your girlfriend will know when you are smoking now 
Sorry, I have nothing of value to add to this post...
Sorry, I have nothing of value to add to this post...
Really, the proof is in the smoking. Like Bob says, it's not unusual.
I've got a Duca Carlo that whistles when empty and it's a great little smoker that I'm attached to.
I've got a Duca Carlo that whistles when empty and it's a great little smoker that I'm attached to.
Thanks guys I will let you know how it smokes!
Bubbadreier haha ya or the smell :P she doesn't like the smell on my breath but loves the smell on my clothes haha.
Bubbadreier haha ya or the smell :P she doesn't like the smell on my breath but loves the smell on my clothes haha.
The whistle is probably a little air by passing the stem at the bowl . Try wetting the stem where it meets the shank of the bowl with saliva before you smoke . A good trick to tighten a loose stem is .Before a good rain remove the stem from a pipe and the wood will swell with the humidity . Then reinsert the stem and the wood will draw down on the stem as it drys . The trick works well with a three or four day rain .
That is a good tip igloo! I usually just wet the inside of the shank with saliva before I smoke, that usually tightens it up for about a week.... How long does the rain trick work?
Sometimes it takes 3 or four times . Works well for pipes left in the car that get baked . Big rain coming your way , give it a try .
Here's a trick to tighten a stem for quite awhile. Rub bee's wax on the tenon and reinsert it with a twisting motion to evenly coat the mortice. When the pipe is smoked, some of the wax is absorbed into the mortice just as your saliva or moisture from the rain is and the stem is snugged up. I've had this treatment last for up to a year.
As for the whistle, have the pipe "opened up" by a professional repairman if it bothers you.
As for the whistle, have the pipe "opened up" by a professional repairman if it bothers you.
Hey chuck, where do you get you bee's wax? I haven't looked to hard but I have kept my eyes open and haven't seen any!
I think I am going to check out hobby lobby down here and if I can't find it there I will see if any of the mom and pop craft stores carry it...
Have a look for a high quality tinned furniture wax polish that has both carnauba wax and beeswax in it. That way you can use it to do as Chuck recommends, plus you can use it to put a nice shine on your bowl.
Have a look for a high quality tinned furniture wax polish that has both carnauba wax and beeswax in it. That way you can use it to do as Chuck recommends, plus you can use it to put a nice shine on your bowl.
pstlpkr said drill the shank (he said sheepishly), but that is not such a bad idea if you have a 'Senior Pipe Reamer'. It's a great tool for anyone that buys estate pipes. One of the integrated tools that comes with the Senior, is a nice little hand drill bit. This will remove any build up of carbon on the inside of the shank and MAY solve the problem. A Senior can be picked up in the US for about $15 to $20 and they even have a 'Set' that has a few more tools in it, for $50ish. I got one a few months ago and it is a nice tool that does the job well. And as an estate pipe buyer, I wouldn't be without it.
pstlpkr said drill the shank (he said sheepishly), but that is not such a bad idea if you have a 'Senior Pipe Reamer'. It's a great tool for anyone that buys estate pipes. One of the integrated tools that comes with the Senior, is a nice little hand drill bit. This will remove any build up of carbon on the inside of the shank and MAY solve the problem. A Senior can be picked up in the US for about $15 to $20 and they even have a 'Set' that has a few more tools in it, for $50ish. I got one a few months ago and it is a nice tool that does the job well. And as an estate pipe buyer, I wouldn't be without it.
I purposely left out drilling the shank because I have no idea how experienced Wallbright is in pipe restoration. One can ruin a pipe if they don't take care or aren't sure of what they are doing. I watched a "professional" repairman drill through the bottom of a really nice Pre-Republic sandblast Peterson 313. That is why I suggested using a professional repairman if the whistle bothered him. The "pro' I saw ruin that 313 is no longer in the pipe repair business.
Excav8tor's suggestion about the Senior reamer is a good one. It can be adjusted for taper drilled bowls. I use both it and the Pip-net set.
Excav8tor's suggestion about the Senior reamer is a good one. It can be adjusted for taper drilled bowls. I use both it and the Pip-net set.
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