Dull to Shiny

Hi guys,
I'm changing the color of one of my Briar pipes.
I'm almost done sanding off it's original finish, and I plan to be putting a coat of Fiebing's Black Dye on it this weekend.
I will probably let the dye dry for an entire day, is that long enough? and then I want to coat it with some sort of shellac or varnish or polyurethane or what?
So that's the heart of my question. What do I apply to the pipe after the Fiebing's Black Dye?
Thanks for your thoughts!
Todd

jp, these are two different pipes. On the one I want to make shine, I used 600grit sandpaper, so as to just remove the outer layer of the pipe.
I'll have to get some Carnauba, and read the rebornpipes write-up.
Also, I'll have to check out a web-photo-hosting site...
Thanks!
Todd

Davet, I'll check into that option as well.
Thanks!
Todd

Thanks JP!
I've seen guys use both Caranuba and others use Bees Wax. From YouTube, Bees Wax looks easier to apply but will it get as high gloss glass-like shine as Carnuaba, or is it the other was around?
btw, I do plan to use 1200grit before I start the wax polishing
btw again, I don't have a fancy spinning wheel, so I'm planning on hooking up a buffing wheel to a fastend down drill or using a Dremel with a buffing wheel?

So I've been doing a fair amount of reading on finishing wood items to a high gloss state, and here are the steps I've found. However none of my readings have been specific to Briar woods, nor the amount of heat pipes are subjected to.
1 - Sand, and sand again, starting with 600grt then 1200grt, 800frt if you can't find 1200grt.

2 - Buff with a buffing wheel. I think they use an all cotton buffing wheel.

3 - And here's where things get decidedly different depending on where you read

- 1st method - apply a thin coat of a varnish, lacquer, or shellac and again differences of opinions on which

- Apply Carnauba wax, buff and buff again generating some degree of heat to help the Briar absorb the wax

- Let is set for a day or so, then repeat the previous step, and then repeat this step ad nauseum.

- 2nd method - forget altogether applying the varnish, lacquer, or shellac, just use the Carnauba wax and buff

- Let is set for a day or so, then repeat the previous step, and then repeat this step ad nauseum.
The argument for using the varnish, lacquer, or shellac is that it seals the pours of the wood enabling the Carnauba to do it's job better because the wax will sit atop the varnish, lacquer, or shellac. I do know of at least one (then again I have only had contact with one) artisan pipe maker who does apply a thin coat of shellac.
The argument for not using the varnish, lacquer, or shellac is to allow the Carnauba to soak into the wood's pours and with multiple applications of thin Carnauba the Carnauba will fill the pours.
All my readings have a few things in common
1 - use thin, thin, thin amounts of Carnauba, Carnauba is the hardest of waxes and has the melting point

2 - lots of buffing in between applications

3 - lets set for a good long while (overnight seems to be the consensus) between applications
Also, there seems to be a fair amount of dissension as to using pure hard Carnauba wax, or if auto polish Carnauba wax will work.
So I have summarized my readings and the varying paths that I could go down, because none of my readings have been specific to Briar woods, nor the amount of heat pipes are subjected to, what say ye?
Todd

WOW!
Sometimes you guys are far from friendly. I did a bunch of reading, reported back what I learned hoping to share what I think to be good information and you dog pile! Certainly makes me want to do this again.
So I have #%&*$ heard you. Need no further posts. Might was well close the thread. Hope to find friendly posts on other threads.
Todd

You can tell someone to go to hell, and if you say it right, they'll look forward to the trip.
I have a thick enough skin, but I shouldn't have to in a place where you just come to chat.
btw, I followed your advice on the Shiny to Dull thread and it didn't come out as dull as I've seen other pipes.

All that put aside,
The pipe has been sanded with 800grt, and buffed with a felt pad on the end of a Dremel.
Tonight it was coated with Fieblings black leather dye, and will be allowed to dry. After it dries, I'll probably buff it again with the felt pad, then give it another coat of Fieblings, and buff it again all in prep for the Carnauba.
Carnauba has been ordered...

SUCCESS!
I melted together 1 part black shoe polish with 7 parts pure carnauba.
After 3 coats of Fiebing's black leather dye, I wasn't happy with the color of the pipe, just not black enough! So I started thinking and after 14yrs in the Marine Corps, the idea came to, why not try black boot polish mixed with carnauba? It's definitely black, but it's soft and oily, and by itself it wouldn't work well with wood, but the videos I was watching on youtube about polishing wood all added tung oil to their brew. I thought well, there is some sort of oil in boot polish, I'll give it a try...
So I mixed the two waxes in a pyrex cup and stuck it in the microwave, stirring occasionally...

Then I got out the Dremel and put the felt drum on it. All the videos said to use multiple thin coats, so I put on the 1st coat and let it dry overnight. Next day, put on a 3rd, and let it dry over night. Put on the final 3rd and it polished up beautifully! see the pics...
http://pipesmagazine.com/members/atjurhs/album/picture/21832

http://pipesmagazine.com/members/atjurhs/album/picture/21833
Sorry I don't know how to turn the pics after uploading them to my album, the "uploader" turned them but you can see the glossy shine like glass and now it's for sale on eBay