Coloring a Mearshaum

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eaglerico

Lifer
Jan 8, 2011
1,134
1
Ok. I have one meerschaum and have been inspired by the fine folks here to try my hand at waxing it to get a nice color to it. I have had a tough go at finding beeswax. I found some at Hobby Lobby. I went there at the recommendation from my Local B&M.
Well I got some but it is a hard brick. Is this the right stuff. How do I actually apply it? Do I need to melt some down and rub it on? Dip? Some good instructions from an expert instead of the "lets try this first timers" on you tube is what I am looking for.
Thanks in advance.

 

mlaug

Part of the Furniture Now
May 23, 2010
908
2
Iowa
If your brick is rather large, cut off a finger sized stick. I use a stick that's about the size of my pinkie. Some guys will fill an old chap stick tube with it. I would avoid dipping your pipe.
I apply it one of two ways.
1. Touch the wax to the bowl as I smoke. The warm bowl will melt off a little bit of wax. I then use a soft cloth to buff the wax and remove any excess.
2. I will melt a small amount and use a cheapo artist brush to lightly paint on the wax, then buff off the excess again with a soft cloth.
I feel its best to maintain a thin layer of wax rather than globbing a lot on. Repeated waxings over time, while you smoke works the best. The whole process is slow, so no need to be in a hurry.

 

daveinlax

Charter Member
May 5, 2009
2,001
2,712
WISCONSIN
I have rewaxed my one meer a few times with good results. Fit a cork in the tobacco chamber then I melt bees wax in a small disposable tart tin I use a small paint brush to cover the pipe with wax I let the pipe sit for a few days then melt the wax with a hair dryer into a lined garbage can. It takes some time to get the wax out of every crevice and it doesn't have to be perfect. I use a hair dryer and not a heat gun out of the fear of softening the vulcanite stem. I keep the leftovers in the tin and I don't clean the paint brush the wax will just melt the next time you heat it. 8O

Before and after using a Butera coloring bowl and rewaxing as described above.

dunhill_meer.jpg
Dunhill_After_006.jpg


 

fred

Lifer
Mar 21, 2010
1,509
4
Nice patina Dave..! How long did it take you to get this Pipe to color and what blends do you generally smoke in it? Are you using white Beeswax? Your concern for overheating the Vulcanite bit is understandable. When I use the hot wax application method, I remover all of the plastic fittings and leave the Pipe to dry out completely, prior to using the wax and hairdryer, so that there is less of a chance to crack the Block. A good way to hold the Block while using a hairdryer to melt off the excess is to insert a cardboard tube into the chamber. That way you don't run the risk of warping your bit.

 

daveinlax

Charter Member
May 5, 2009
2,001
2,712
WISCONSIN
Thanks for the kind words, I'm a little embarrassed, those pictures have been posted on about every board in reply to this same subject. Anyway the picture was taken a couple of years ago after about four months straight of two bowls of mostly EMP a day and one rewaxing using natural bees wax with a light yellowish tint. I have long quit using the coloring bowl I sort of regret it but I sure enjoy smoking the pipe more with out it. I will remove the stem and fit something into the pipe to hold it next time I rewax it. As a side note the Dunhill box is labeled "The Playboy" it came from the Edsel James collection via the 310 shop in Tenn. and smokes like a dream! 8O

 

eaglerico

Lifer
Jan 8, 2011
1,134
1
Thanks for the clear instructions. I will give it a try and takes some pics along the way and post some updates. Hopefully it comes close to the color in the pic above.

 

jasongone

Part of the Furniture Now
Mar 23, 2011
511
0
does the beeswax help facilitate the coloring? does it make for a "better" patina? or is it simply speeding it up?

i guess what i mean is what kind of patina differences does one get using the wax as opposed to just smoking the pipe?

 

pstlpkr

Lifer
Dec 14, 2009
9,694
31
Birmingham, AL
I believe it aids in the migration of the oils that color the pipe, protects the exterior, and is instrumental in developing the patina... However; it evaporates to some degree, thus it needs to be re-applied after smoking.

That is if I have absorbed (pardon the pun) what knowledge Fred has imparted in his periodic masterly works.

 

jasongone

Part of the Furniture Now
Mar 23, 2011
511
0
thanks lawrence. i have my first meer coming soon so i am very curious.

 

fred

Lifer
Mar 21, 2010
1,509
4
I'll start off with my own musings, which are what seems to me to

be a cogent theory. Comment and divergent views are welcome, as this is

a topic that interests many, but none seem to know much about.
I've been giving some thought to the issues of flow dynamics as they

relate to Meerschaum coloring. With little else but the most rudimentary

exposure to scientific thought on flow principles long ago, my grasp of

this concept is weak. Still, it seems a topic of interest to both myself and

others. I offer these thoughts in the hopes that others will take some interest.

The combination of burning tobacco and beeswax cause Meerschaums to

color over time. OK, so what's going on? It seems that heat will cause the

wax to migrate into the Block. Continued heating/cooling cycles will cause

the wax to migrate in a progressive manner, but at some point, the wax

evaporates. This process works like a wick to the byproducts of tobacco

combustion and draws them into the Block, where they accumulate, in a

progressive result of color, that changes character over time. If I understand

it, this is the process that results in the patina that Meerschaum smokers

prize. Is this what's going on? Do I have a cogent theory in this line

of thought?
An interesting

observation to add to this is that Meerschaums that have been smoked

for long periods of time, without rewaxing, may not demonstrate a well developed

patina. When such a Pipe is rewaxed, it will quickly display colors. Like all

coloring in Meerschaums, the repetition of rewaxing in concert with smoking

the Pipe, will eventually produce coloring that does not quickly fade.
I believe that I've addressed the path of wax dissipation. Continued

heating/cooling cycles will cause the wax to migrate in a progressive

manner, but at some point, the wax evaporates. This process may

account for wax loss, but certainly some will also be lost to friction

on the Pipe's surface. I've not taken any additives that the Carver

may choose to mix in with the wax or the porosity of the Block into account.
Smoke from the tobacco smoking is giving the brown color, that is

certainly a factor. The heat and the moisture of the tobacco are also

involved. The Pipe's shank usually starts to color first, as it is the

site of major condensation via cooling, of the tobacco being smoked.

I agree that the wax protects the outer surface of the Pipe, which is

not to say that it doesn't migrate into the Block. As I understand it,

the Carver blocks off the Pipe's draft & the bowl, so that the wax does

not get into the Pipe, but this is done to avoid having the first few smokes

taste like burning wax. I also agree with you about the wax not being the

coloring agent for the Block, but instead, it serves to wick the byproducts

of the smoke along it's migration routes. The point that has me stumped,

is the quick color shown by waxing Pipes that have not been rewaxed,

but have been smoked. This suggests that some part (or all) of the nicotine,

tars & moisture are already in the Block from smoking, but do not display

this coloring as fast, if left without rewaxing. Even if the wax's role is to

wick and protect, how does it contribute to the Pipe's color. Your idea of

the wax serving to seal the Block from loss of these smoke byproducts

may be a demonstration of this idea. It is an interesting puzzle.
I've been turning this bit of a puzzle over in my mind, as it seems that

it will not let me rest. Perhaps the wax, the heat and the burning tobaccos

also interact chemically. This would explain how rewaxing a Pipe, that has

been smoked for a long period of time, will produce coloring with a rapid

permanence more dramatically than a Pipe that has been smoked less that

has been rewaxed. It is also quite possible that the Meerschaum itself plays

a part in this chemical interaction. I suspect that this has all been thought

of before, and tested by Carvers. Such knowledge would enable a Carver's

work to stand apart from the competition, and not likely to be widely known,

as with anything in the Meerschaum trades. So much is lost to us in the

guarded history of the Carver's art.
Sepiolite, formerly known as Meerschaum (sea froth), is a

non-swelling, lightweight, porous clay with a large specific

surface area. Unlike other clays, the individual particles of

sepiolite have a needle-like morphology. The high surface

area and porosity, as well as the unusual particle shape of

this clay account for its outstanding sorption capacity and

colloidal properties that make it a valuable material for a

wide range of applications
The high surface area and porosity of sepiolite account for

the remarkable adsorptive and absorptive properties of this

clay. It adsorbs vapours and odours and can absorb

approximately its own weight of water and other liquids.

Sepiolite is a non-swelling clay and its granules do not

desintegrate even when saturated with liquids.
These particles are arranged forming loosely packed and

porous aggregates with an extensive capillary network

which explains the high porosity of sepiolite and its light

weight because of the large void space.
What is unclear, at least to me is whether the

wax serves as the vehicle for the volatiles that color the Pipe, or if it is the remains

of both the wax and the volatiles as a combination that provide the color.

Whether the wax provides migration routes and serves as a vehicle for the volatiles

that result in color, or the combination of the wax and volatiles interacts with

the lattice structure of the Meerschaum is a good question, for which I have no

answer. It's also unclear how long the wax remains in the Block and whether

or not it's constituents ever fully pass from the Block. Indeed, as the Block nears

saturation, it will seep as it's smoked, to the point where I've observed older

Pipes requiring a cloth to wipe the Pipe while it's being smoked. It's a good

question as to what is actually left behind in the Block to provide the color, which

itself can range from flamingo pink to black. Another factor to consider is the character of the Meerschaum lattice structure - which is itself imbued with trace minerals, which can be seen as hues of red or green. Certainly, the more porous the Block, the more wax it can absorb and the more rapidly it can color. Prior to waxing, if the Pipe is held up to the light, the higher grades will be almost transparent, like looking at a tent at night, that is lit from within, infrequently exhibiting light red or green hues of color. The issue of coloring is certainly pleasing to observe and becomes surprisingly complex when attempting to explain. Heat drives the process and just as it serves to color, it can serve to bleed the color from a Pipe, as evidenced by reports of Pipes turning a mottled grey when smoked in temperatures below 32 deg Fahrenheit.
Yes, it would seem that once the coloration becomes established on the Block

exterior surface, then the Block interior starts to build concentrations of the

volatiles of combustion. I suspect that the Beeswax serves to provide

pathways to the Block exterior for the volatiles and act as a barrier on the

Block's surface, where they collect. Since this is a heat driven dynamic, the wax

and color migrates to the exterior as the Pipe is smoked, and retreat to the Block's

interior as the Pipe cools. Some of my Pipes are well colored. With prolonged periods

of rest, the patina fades a little, but returns with full intensity when the Pipe is smoked.

When these Pipes are hot from the smoke, the surface of the Block will seep wax that is

slightly colored from the volatiles. When cool, the wax seems to provide protection for

the Block's surface. The Beeswax serves to wick the volatiles that result in patina development.
Lately, I've been musing about how some of my Meerschaums seem to give a better performance with Virginia blends and others do much better with full English and Orientals. Allowing for quality of the Block used in the some hundred or so Meerschaums I have the good fortune to smoke, I initially thought that bit shape and general configuration of the Pipe might be a good place to start my subjective reasoning... Certainly, the Peterson P-Lip seems to set a Pipe up to perform best with Virginia blends, or at least until I smoked Baki's P-Lip, which does it's best with English and Balkan blends. Since both the new Peterson Turkish Block Meerschaums and Baki's Pipes are high grade Block, I began to consider something that I've read others discuss in the Briar community, which is that the soil that the burl grows in has a lot to do with the performance of the Pipe. OK, so there is also a lot of talk about how the drafting qualities of the Pipe come into play, but preferring to keep things relatively simple, I began to think about the clay that the raw Sepiolite comes from. In the past, Deniz has written that the Carver will smell the raw Block, among other actions, during his purchase considerations. If I knew more about how Sepiolite forms in the clay, I would have more information to make a good decision with. Even so, I lack the knowledge of what the Carver does to the Block and how this affects the smoking qualities of the Pipe. Just the same, with my limited understanding on this matter, I'm strongly drawn to the idea of how the clay affects the Sepiolite over time, before it is harvested. This opens up a can of worms over whether or not the Block contributes to the flavors of the smoke, either by the presence of trace elements or the individual absorptive qualities of the Pipe. Certainly, as the patina evolves into more of a complete matrix within the Block, the Pipe's absorptive qualities are influenced, which is an observation borne out by those fortunate enough to smoke well colored Meerschaums. Trying to take all of these variables into account only clouds the issue, at least to me. With such a lack of information, I still suspect that the clay has a big role in the individual performance of the Pipe. Hopefully, more information will be brought into this matter in the future, but for now, this is as much as I can surmise.

 

jasongone

Part of the Furniture Now
Mar 23, 2011
511
0
thanks fred. you rule and your musings make me more eager to get th ebig SMS billiard in me hands and start smoking and waxing... a whole new world i am sure.

thank, sir.

 

eaglerico

Lifer
Jan 8, 2011
1,134
1
Wow. You should submit an article so this info can be more readily found and you get credit for your knowledge. This is great stuff.

 

pstlpkr

Lifer
Dec 14, 2009
9,694
31
Birmingham, AL
Hey Eagle you can start with this one:

Fred is one of our most knowledgeable members.

Slave to the White Goddess
Fred I have one question; you have mentioned on innumerable occasions waxing your meerschaums...

What exactly is the technique you use?... Do you just rub a stick of beeswax on the warm meer, or do you apply molten beeswax with a cloth, etc.? I may have missed it in your articles, if so I apologize.

 

loneredtree

Part of the Furniture Now
May 27, 2011
569
181
Sierra Foothills
Here are my thoughts on your musings. As the new pipe is smoked the interior warms and melts the bee's wax near the surface. Capillary action draws the liquid wax towards the chamber where it combines with the juices , tars etc that are the products of combustion. After the bowl has become saturated ( it can't hold more) further smoking melts the wax that solidified when the pipe cooled during its rest period. This now melted wax mixes with the wax near the surface and carries the color to the surface. If there is no surface wax, the color will not be carried to the surface. Reapplying the wax to the surface allows the process to continue. When the whole pipe is saturated, heating the pipe while smoking causes the wax to expand as it is heated which causes your observed liquid wax to appear on the surface and you wipe it off.
Just my thoughts.....Thanks for your post it was very informative.

 

jasongone

Part of the Furniture Now
Mar 23, 2011
511
0
reading freds thoughts and adding loneredtree's i think you guys are really onto something.

 

flipflopsandshades

Can't Leave
Dec 12, 2010
335
0
As kind of an aside, what are the proper ways to clean a Meer?
Should you use alcohol of any sort? (The scant information that I have been able to find says mainly no.)
But what are your practices?

 
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