Building a Pipe Rack - What Type of Wood to Use?

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 2, 2010

• #1

Okay guys, I am going to build a pipe rack this weekend (Sunday) and I need some advice on which type of wood would be most economical and still look good!
Here are the plans that I drew up the other day...

and here is the cardboard "proof of concept"...

So any ideas on a type of wood? Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks in advance guys!

 

unclearthur

Lifer

Mar 9, 2010

6,875

5

• Dec 2, 2010

• #2

I use a lot of oak, red oak will be a bit more expensive than white. with careful selection you can do a pretty nice job in pine. Cherry is easy to work with. I don't know what it sells for out that way though. Here I get most of mine free.

 

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 2, 2010

• #3

How do you pull off free wood?!

 

buckeye

Part of the Furniture Now

Nov 16, 2010

925

8

• Dec 2, 2010

• #4

i would say you could use any type of wood you wish.

 

collin

Part of the Furniture Now

Oct 29, 2010

881

2

Oklahoma

• Dec 2, 2010

• #5

Bubba,...Lowe's usually has a small selection of 1/2" dimension woods that you may want to go look at, red oak and maple are usually available. That's where I'm going.

Southeast Door and Plywood is a great place to start.

The 1/2" stuff might mess with your layout though if you based it on 3/4" stuff.

 

chuckw

Part of the Furniture Now

Oct 7, 2009

679

12

• Dec 2, 2010

• #6

I would imagine you could use anything except balsa. Savinelli needs that stuff.

For inexpensive wood, pine would do and you can stain it any color you wish. It is a soft wood though. Black and American walnut would be my first choice with cherry being second. Another attractive wood is mahogany but it can be expensive.

 

patiobum

Part of the Furniture Now

Nov 5, 2009

661

37

Baytown,Texas

• Dec 2, 2010

• #7

Poplar is easy on the blades, easy to sand and stain. Usually has slight blush in the wood and the stains brings out contrast with the grain.
Red Oak is good, routes and stains well.

 

yuri66

Starting to Get Obsessed

Nov 17, 2010

287

0

• Dec 2, 2010

• #8

First off "HOLY SH!T BATMAN" that is one hell of a draft and carboard display, nice job, the carboard display needs a bit of paint and forget the wood. Just kidding, Cherry and Balck Walnut, once stained make awesome display cases, one of my bosses is a cabinet maker in his spare time and sold me on the black walnut and cherry.

 

W

winston

Lurker

Aug 16, 2010

9

0

• Dec 2, 2010

• #9

What will you use to create the part where the bowl sits? I've been thinking about doing this to, not as big as yours, but wasn't sure how to get the bowl seat right. Nice plans and model.

 

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 4, 2010

• #10

I am not sure Winston! If all else fails I will just cut out holes...
Well it looks like I am going to be putting it off for a week, hurt my ankle today and have to stay off of it for a few days

 

abecox

Starting to Get Obsessed

Sep 8, 2010

197

0

• Dec 4, 2010

• #11

I don't know of the wood, but I hope you don't mind that I borrow those plans to make one of my own one of these weekends! :D

 

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 4, 2010

• #12

Not at all! That is why they are there!

 

patiobum

Part of the Furniture Now

Nov 5, 2009

661

37

Baytown,Texas

• Dec 4, 2010

• #13

I am not sure Winston! If all else fails I will just cut out holes...

Click to expand...

I built a couple of racks. First I used a spade drill, but it has a long pilot point, then I tried a Forester bit with better results, shorter guide drill. Most racks have a oblong / rounded pipe bole hole made with a rounded router bit.
I did not care to build a jig for the setup. Years ago, I email a guy that built custon racks and asked about the oblong routed hole and he didn't want to share his method of building/using a jig. Guess he thought I would be competition.
If you use 3/8" material, you could flat bottom the hole sau 1/4" deep and then cover the bottom with thin feltto hide the pilot hole. Just a thought
Lowes has a rack with thin Poplar and Oak for rack materials.1/4,3/8 and 1/2 thick materials 1 to 3" wide.

 

igloo

Lifer

Jan 17, 2010

4,083

5

woodlands tx

• Dec 4, 2010

• #14

When you drill your holes , use a 1/4 bit as a pilot hole .when you switch to the forester bit drill half way then flip the board over to reduce your chances of the splinter out .

 

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 4, 2010

• #15

Thanks for the advice guys!

 

iowamike

Can't Leave

Nov 14, 2010

300

0

• Dec 4, 2010

• #16

I used rek oak and dark stain, it looks good. If I was computer savy I would post a pic.

 

unclearthur

Lifer

Mar 9, 2010

6,875

5

• Dec 4, 2010

• #17

Bubba, up this way cherry is a fence row pest tree. I get paid to remove them. Trade for sawing and air dry.

 

searock

Starting to Get Obsessed

Sep 15, 2010

245

0

• Dec 4, 2010

• #18

I would think just about any wood would work... although I wouldn't use balsa! I'd just pick a wood I like.

 

bubbadreier

Lifer

Jul 30, 2010

3,011

3

Norman, Oklahoma

• Dec 5, 2010

• #19

I think the first one I am going to make out of pine, after that I am going to move up to more expensive woods! The pipe is going to be my "Proof of a Proof Concept" haha....

 

unclearthur

Lifer

Mar 9, 2010

6,875

5

• Dec 5, 2010

• #20

Good thinking!