Pipes Magazine » Pipes Accessories

1. 

   Bubba
   

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   Okay guys, I am going to build a pipe rack this weekend (Sunday) and I need some advice on which type of wood would be most economical and still look good!

   Here are the plans that I drew up the other day...

   

   and here is the cardboard "proof of concept"...

   
   

   So any ideas on a type of wood? Any other ideas or suggestions?

   Thanks in advance guys!

   Mason jars and bale top jars, mason jars and bale top jars.... that is all!
   
   "There’s truth in the statement that pipe tobacco will never be any less expensive than it is today, so think of your cellar as a cost averaged investment" - G.L. Pease

   Posted 2 years ago #
2. 

   unclearthur
   

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   I use a lot of oak, red oak will be a bit more expensive than white. with careful selection you can do a pretty nice job in pine. Cherry is easy to work with. I don't know what it sells for out that way though. Here I get most of mine free.

   If at first you don't succeed you are running about average.

   Posted 2 years ago #
3. 

   Bubba
   

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   How do you pull off free wood?!

   Posted 2 years ago #
4. 

   buckeye
   

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   i would say you could use any type of wood you wish.

   smokin my homemade rustic pipe. don`t get any better.

   Posted 2 years ago #
5. 

   Tommy
   

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   Bubba,...Lowe's usually has a small selection of 1/2" dimension woods that you may want to go look at, red oak and maple are usually available. That's where I'm going.
   Southeast Door and Plywood is a great place to start.
   The 1/2" stuff might mess with your layout though if you based it on 3/4" stuff.

   Posted 2 years ago #
6. 

   chuckw
   

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   I would imagine you could use anything except balsa. Savinelli needs that stuff.
   For inexpensive wood, pine would do and you can stain it any color you wish. It is a soft wood though. Black and American walnut would be my first choice with cherry being second. Another attractive wood is mahogany but it can be expensive.

   I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.

   Posted 2 years ago #
7. 

   patiobum
   

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   Poplar is easy on the blades, easy to sand and stain. Usually has slight blush in the wood and the stains brings out contrast with the grain.

   Red Oak is good, routes and stains well.

   cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.......
   
   martin

   Posted 2 years ago #
8. 

   yuri66
   

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   First off "HOLY SH!T BATMAN" that is one hell of a draft and carboard display, nice job, the carboard display needs a bit of paint and forget the wood. Just kidding, Cherry and Balck Walnut, once stained make awesome display cases, one of my bosses is a cabinet maker in his spare time and sold me on the black walnut and cherry.

   Posted 2 years ago #
9. 

   winston
   

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   What will you use to create the part where the bowl sits? I've been thinking about doing this to, not as big as yours, but wasn't sure how to get the bowl seat right. Nice plans and model.

   Posted 2 years ago #
10. 

    Bubba
    

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    I am not sure Winston! If all else fails I will just cut out holes...

    Well it looks like I am going to be putting it off for a week, hurt my ankle today and have to stay off of it for a few days

    Posted 2 years ago #
11. 

    abecox
    

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    I don't know of the wood, but I hope you don't mind that I borrow those plans to make one of my own one of these weekends!

    Posted 2 years ago #
12. 

    Bubba
    

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    Not at all! That is why they are there!

    Posted 2 years ago #
13. 

    patiobum
    

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    I am not sure Winston! If all else fails I will just cut out holes...

    I built a couple of racks. First I used a spade drill, but it has a long pilot point, then I tried a Forester bit with better results, shorter guide drill. Most racks have a oblong / rounded pipe bole hole made with a rounded router bit.

    I did not care to build a jig for the setup. Years ago, I email a guy that built custon racks and asked about the oblong routed hole and he didn't want to share his method of building/using a jig. Guess he thought I would be competition.

    If you use 3/8" material, you could flat bottom the hole sau 1/4" deep and then cover the bottom with thin feltto hide the pilot hole. Just a thought

    Lowes has a rack with thin Poplar and Oak for rack materials.1/4,3/8 and 1/2 thick materials 1 to 3" wide.

    Posted 2 years ago #
14. 

    igloo
    

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    When you drill your holes , use a 1/4 bit as a pilot hole .when you switch to the forester bit drill half way then flip the board over to reduce your chances of the splinter out .

    “There was an awful suspicion in my mind that I'd finally gone over the hump, and the worst thing about it was that I didn't feel tragic at all, but only weary, and sort of comfortably detached.”

    Posted 2 years ago #
15. 

    Bubba
    

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    Thanks for the advice guys!

    Posted 2 years ago #
16. 

    iowamike
    

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    I used rek oak and dark stain, it looks good. If I was computer savy I would post a pic.

    Posted 2 years ago #
17. 

    unclearthur
    

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    Bubba, up this way cherry is a fence row pest tree. I get paid to remove them. Trade for sawing and air dry.

    Posted 2 years ago #
18. 

    searock
    

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    I would think just about any wood would work... although I wouldn't use balsa! I'd just pick a wood I like.

    Posted 2 years ago #
19. 

    Bubba
    

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    I think the first one I am going to make out of pine, after that I am going to move up to more expensive woods! The pipe is going to be my "Proof of a Proof Concept" haha....

    Posted 2 years ago #
20. 

    unclearthur
    

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    Good thinking!

    Posted 2 years ago #
21. 

    Bubba
    

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    If it works out to where it isn't exactly the way I want, I will send it off to you uncle arthur Then I will perfect it and make another one!

    Posted 2 years ago #
22. 

    whitecloud
    

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    I built a rack a month or so back and used red oak. Very nice to work with. I had gotten it at Home Depot in the scrap pile so it cost me $2 for a 20" X 3.5" piece. I saw a post yesterday and I forgot who said it (apologies) that they cut their stem hole and then a small slot in the front of the hole. They could turn their stem sideways to get it in and once set in place, the narrowed front slot would stop the pipe from falling out if the stand got jostled. I did mine by guessing and feel but your measurements of 4.5" verticle and 1.5" of lip on the front match exactly with what I thought the design should be. Lastly, the center hole idea, from Igloo, is a good one. I drilled through using a piece of scrap as backing and I still got some splintering at the edge of the hole. A router can fix some of this if you have one. Good luck with your project!! I just purchased a Mario Grandi... now what do I do. Think I'll just hang it on the wall!! Have fun!!

    Posted 2 years ago #
23. 

    Bubba
    

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    Thanks for the advice whitecloud, and welcome to the forums! We are glad to have you!

    Posted 2 years ago #
24. 

    igloo
    

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    Bubba you done whitlin up that new rack yet ?

    Posted 2 years ago #
25. 

    Bubba
    

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    I will be starting on it this Sunday! I hurt my ankle during last weekend (Sunday is my only day off), so I have to put it off until this weekend! I plan on taking a bunch of pictures for you guys!

    Posted 2 years ago #
26. 

    Bubba
    

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    Okay well my father is here for the Holidays and decided that before we build the rack according to my plans we were going to build one according to his plans! But after we built it (its not done yet) I decided I kind of like it...

    

    Now this one will work but I still need to make a new one that is a couple inches wider on all levels. My dads current plans are based off of mine but rather than make a divot for the bowls to sit in, he inlayed two rubber strips into the wood to hold the pipes...

    

    He also made it to where a pipe on the top rack sits in between two pipes on the bottom rack, this is why I have to make the next one a few inches wider. I don't really like it that way And I have to made the divots the stems rest in deeper, he liked the look of the shallow divots

    I guess this is his first draft! I will post better pictures when it is finished. I will also post pictures of my rack when I get the chance to build it!

    Posted 2 years ago #
27. 

    buckeye
    

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    i kind of like it to. nice work.

    Posted 2 years ago #
28. 

    wolfscout
    

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    Divets for holding placement of the pipe bowls can be done with Hand tools like those used on lathes.
    To practice the art of wood carving, you need three basic tools--a gouge, a chisel, and a V-tool. The gouge is used to cut into the wood and carve out rounded curves. The chisel creates flat surfaces and hard lines. The V-tool highlights certain divots and contours.
    Then you sand it smooth, either by hand or with a dremel tool, to suit your tastes.
    I have used a router and formed divets if I wanted them with more depth to them. Take a look at a tool shop and get a router bit that is wide and shallow, set your depth and rout out your divet carefully. It works better if you have a piece of plywood or other scrap and have drilled out a pattern for placements of your divets. It's easier to see and align them that way without so much guess work.

    Posted 2 years ago #
29. 

    puffintuff
    

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    I'd like to see how it comes out. You may have found your calling in life.

    "Pipe Racks by Bubba"

    Posted 2 years ago #
30. 

    unclearthur
    

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    I like the rubber strip idea. Nice job there for sure.

    Posted 2 years ago #
31. 

    Bubba
    

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    Okay so here is the "finished" piece. (still needs one more coat of stain) It is growing on my but I am still going to have to make the changes to the design that I mentioned in an earlier post. Tell what you think and be honest please!

    
    

    Sorry for the crappy photos, I have been using my iphone 3g camera!

    Posted 2 years ago #
32. 

    flipflopsandshades
    

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    Very nice work! Wish I was mechanically inclined and talented as you! I don't know a screwdriver from a plum.

    Posted 2 years ago #
33. 

    unclearthur
    

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    The screwdriver don't go "squish" when ya step on it!!

    Posted 2 years ago #
34. 

    bhpdrew
    

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    Needs deeper "wells" for the stems to sit in. I would "cup" spots for the bowls to rest in as well. Even with the rubber I can see the pipes falling or getting knocked over to easy.

    “The will to survive is not as important as the will to prevail... the answer to criminal aggression is retaliation.” - Jeff Cooper
    “Hoplophobia is a mental disturbance characterized by irrational aversion to weapons, as opposed to justified apprehension about those who may wield them.”
    – To Ride, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth

    Posted 2 years ago #
35. 

    Bubba
    

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    okay here is a more detailed photo! This rack isn't going to work! Nice try Father! haha...

    
    

    Posted 2 years ago #
36. 

    rlunderhill
    

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    I need to start a nice pipe rack myself. I'm using display cases for my pipes now. They work nicely.

    Posted 3 months ago #

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