Hi guys im new to the forum im pete majilton im hooked on estate pipes at the moment and i clean them using the salt alcahol method to get rid of ghost odours.i use nail files very fine on the teeth markings and cotten wool buds.I also use tooth brushes the miniture ones that you can buy to get beetween your teeth.I finish off with olive oil.But im considering getting a buffer.I have been told that the pipes look beautiful when done.Although my pipes look much better i was wondering if anyone knows what polishes you use on the pipe and is it actually worth getting a cheap one
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Pipes Magazine » Pipe Repair and Maintenance
Buffer
(18 posts)-
Posted 4 months ago #
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I don't know what buffers are available in the USA, I use a grinder with a conversion kit that I picked up here in the UK, as for what Polish, you wan't to get hold of Carnauba Wax in bar form, this is what the best pipe makers use, I would also get a Dunhill polishing cloth for finishing off, they look expensive but last for years and you will be amazed at the shine they put on.
Regards Ken,
I am not young enough to know everything.Posted 4 months ago # -
If I'm working an estate pipe that needs a little help I usually start with a mild polishing compound then work to a fine and very fine compound, then finish it with carnuaba wax. Buffer speed is something that has been discussed a lot on this forum. You don't want to run so fast you burn things. I use a Foredom variable speed buffer with 4" buff wheels, different one for each compound.
Posted 4 months ago # -
im in the uk a grinder what a great idea with a converstion kit .carnuaba wax thanks for this all i knew was it was in block form.In regaurds to burning i have also heard this but i think being careful slow with my pipe i should hopefully not burn the wood.carnuaba wax is it available in the uk.Anywhere?
Posted 4 months ago # -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bench-Grinder-General-Purpose-Metal-Polishing-Kit-HIL6-1502-/300650017298?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4600233212 Heres the Buffer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liberon-Woodturning-Stick-50g-Carnauba-Wax-Lathe-/140339534365?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item20ace35a1d and heres the wax
Posted 4 months ago # -
I've used a grinder at over 3000rpm and now use an electric motor at 1750rpm. I've not had any problem burning the stems or pipes.
The trick is to hold the part firmly (To avoid making a rocket of them) and use a light touch on the buffing wheel. Also, when doing stems, avoid too much contact at the leading edge of the stem where it meets the shank, as you can easily round over that edge.
When cleaning the stem, I begin by using 800-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove the oxidation before buffing. I keep dipping the sandpaper in water to keep it cleaner and to minimize scratching and material removal from the stem. It works very well and cuts down on the use of the buffer, also minimizing the chances of any burning/melting of the stem when buffing.
When I do use the buffer, I use White Diamond compound and once I get the stem shined, I follow that with a light coat of carnuba. This will help to slow oxidation of the stem.
Steve: Pipemaker in Training!
Posted 4 months ago # -
I was using a small electric motor and a jackshaft with three step pulleys on each until a while back when all the magic smoke leaked out of the ragged motor. Until I scrounge a new (to me ) motor I am using a 1750 grinder and having no trouble. I prefer the motor and jackshaft though because I have a wide range of speeds.
If at first you don't succeed you are running about average.Posted 4 months ago # -
lots of motors can be used and stick to something around 1750 rpm which is a really popular speed, then get one of the arbor adapters so that you can use larger buffing wheels on it. Someone on here will post up a link to the companies that have them.
Marry the right person, this one decision will determine 90% of your happiness.
Does a culture based on seperation and competition, of scientific sophistication and mideval religion, offer happiness even as it ravishes the Earth that sustains it?Posted 4 months ago # -
I'm using an older motor off an old Craftsman table saw. Runs at 1750. I mounted all my sanding discs and buffing wheels on carriage bolts and then made myself a long aluminum arbor that is threaded so I can quickly and easily change between wheels and discs.
Posted 4 months ago # -
I'm using an old motor scavenged from my parents furnace. Apparently, it needed to be replaced and was sitting beside the furnace for decades. It works fine as a pipe buffer, at 1750 rpm. A member here makes a conversion arbor to mount on the end of the shaft, for mounting pads.
With only one shaft, not quite as convenient as a dual-shaft motor, but it was free. I use a modified, cut-down wingnut for pad mounting.
Al
My Pipes:
Posted 4 months ago # -
Following suit here.
I'm about to get my hands on some estates here (I hope) and I'm going to have to read up on all this. But hey, I think it's an exciting prospect to try my hand at.
All I have though is a dual wheel 6" bench grinder which runs at 2000 (slow speed) to something like 3200 (high speed).
Would 2000 be too high to buff ??
"The fact is, squire, the moment a man takes to a pipe, he becomes a philosopher. It's the poor man's friend; it calms the mind, soothes the temper, and makes a man patient under difficulties. It has made more good men, good husbands, kind masters, indulgent fathers, than any other blessed thing on this universal earth."
-"Sam Slick, the clockmaker" aka T.C.HaliburtonPosted 4 months ago # -
Would 2000 be too high to buff ??
If you get a larger diameter buff, I don't see why not. That changes the surface speed on the edge of the pad.Posted 4 months ago # -
It's a 6" grinder. I don't think I can fit a larger buff in there. I'm going to play with it this weekend.
Posted 4 months ago # -
It's a 6" grinder. I don't think I can fit a larger buff in there
Can you remove the guards and tool-rest maybe?
Posted 4 months ago # -
I use a drill press with a 1/2" bolt in the chuck and double-nuts either side of the buff. The press has the stepped spindles and it works ok. Still would like to have a double-ended horizontal buffer.
All things I undertake must contain integrity, compassion, elegance and grace.Posted 4 months ago # -
This is one of the reasons i came on here i get solid good advice.I will definatly get a buffer i think i will practice on old scrap wood first to get it right for me so i dont risk burning it seems a common problem now.And i can see why everyone gets estate pipes like me.For me looking at photos i think im looking at brand new pipes here guys which shows me how much hard work and love you put into your pipes when maintaining cleaning.Also im getting some cheaper high end pipes i couldnot normally afford.1750rpm seems the most correct speed which i wouldnot of known and ive got my links for polish and buffer thank you everyone so much sorry to be a pain asking so much pete
Posted 4 months ago # -
Pete,
Never apologize for asking a question. I've found these guys here to be great and helpful. My visits have been most educational !Schmitzbitz, I'll have to check on removing the guards and such this weekend.
Posted 4 months ago # -
I agree with Mick, sharing the knowledge (my meager share) is part of the pipe smoking tradition.
Estates is the only way I could have acquired the pipes I have in my collection. Although, I think that I have a greater appreciation for pipes I've had to refurbish. I also use the estate purchase/refurbish process to resell and step up to a nicer grade pipe. With two daughters fresh out of college, I'm definitely on the budget plan.Posted 4 months ago #
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