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Mar 1, 2014
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My Nording Churchwardens finally arrived the other day.

I bought them because the specs listed quite large bowls, something you don't see a lot of on less expensive pipes (usually a big bore commands at least $200 for some reason).

Of course, what do I find but the bore listed is only the diameter of the very top of the bowl and it tapers very quickly. Needless to say they weren't the pipes I had in mind when I purchased them.

So facing the decision to either send them back or make lemonade, I decided working with what I had was the better option since if these pipes weren't big enough chances are no pipe would be (at least not at a reasonable price).

Fortunately I bought a carving bit just for this type of thing a few weeks ago, the results are seen below.
87KJH2pl.jpg

2mxDB80l.jpg


The bore on the pipe above is now approximately 25.4mm (1") at the brim and 22mm (7/8") wide at 16mm (5/8") down the wall.

Along with the funky bore you can see a pit at the very bottom. I never smoke a bowl with tobacco that low, but it's still less than ideal. There's a fair number of pits on the outside of the bowl as well, but I'm not too fussy about what's on the outside.

It also had a drill mark on the mortise, making it a bit loose and wiggly, so I countersunk the first quarter inch or so to get the tenon to seat farther in. Of course it was too snug after, and thankfully Nording drills those shanks deep because I got it wrong sanding it a few times but finally got a good fit with the tenon snug with the end of the mortise.

The airway is actually still fine like this since Nording does a good job widening the airway to make it curve up to meet the stem.
SBfbmOEl.jpg

EzGRDoml.jpg


The bore diameter on this pipe is now 27.5mm (1-3/32") at the brim and 22mm (7/8") at about 15mm (19/32") down the wall.

On this one I had more to work with at the top of the pipe but the skinny waste in the middle made me keep it reasonable going down.

The Tenon was good out of the box.
I'm also giving the bowls a coating of Walnut oil, so it may be a few days yet before I smoke them. The instructions for the oil say it has a six month time to curing totally, so it's probably best to make sure they stay super clean and get a good amount of time between bowls for this year.

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,459
Hmmm. Interesting. A real custom job. I have a wide array of bowl sizes and find each size has a good use, from the real small Group 1's, like my Peterson Belgique and my Old Dominion Chesapeake, to a great big old Johs apple Group 6-ish and some other biggies. This looks handily done and I hope it doesn't tilt the engineering in any deleterious way; in this case, I don't think it will. Pipes are usually carefully designed and crafted to have the bowl complement the airway, but I think this will work.

 

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,783
45,386
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Interesting approach to solving a problem. I'm curious to know if the bowl shape is one that tapers down, like a Dublin or bulldog. A cylindrical chamber in such a shape increases the possibility of burn out, cracks, or shrinkage over time as the walls of the chamber are significantly thinner at the base. A conical chamber is preferable for such bowl shapes.

 

jeepnewbie

Part of the Furniture Now
Jul 12, 2013
952
157
Byron
www.facebook.com
I came here thinking of "boring" pipes wondering what made them "boring". That is a far from boring pipe. :rofl:

Let us know how it handles with you nice custom fix.

 
Mar 1, 2014
3,647
4,917
After some recent conversations I decided even with the widening I did already, my Nording still wasn't too terribly out of the ordinary. So I took it back a bit more, frequently measuring the wall thickness while carving. The thinnest spot is 6.5mm now, which is still well within factory pipe standards, though 10mm seems to be preferable so I'll have to be an extra bit more careful.
It is slightly out of round, at the brim it's 30mm front to back, and 28mm side to side, and 1.5cm down the bowl it's 28mm front to back and 26.5mm side to side.
BLYu6UZl.jpg

zLTDVxjl.jpg

The other pipe is a Brebbia Aero I picked up last fall for about $50 (from Pipedivan.com). It wasn't terribly appealing as-stock (nice shape, skinny bowl) so I bored it out to 26mm wide at the brim and 22mm at 1.5cm down the bowl. The thinnest point on the wall is just under 7mm, though there is a spot on the heel that's a bit thinner than that out of the box.

After that I decided to play with the finish so it looks like this now:

3YKkHfpl.jpg


 

clickklick

Lifer
May 5, 2014
1,700
212
To be fair, generally, when a mod such as this is made to a pipe, there should be some sort of identification placed on the shank. It is the only fair way to ensure this gets identified in an estate market. Although not of significant value in the estate market, it is generally just good practice. You may have no intent of selling them ever, but any unfortunate event can make a collection "estate".

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,459
Just for mention, there are quite a few lower priced pipes with big cylindrical bowls. Toward mid-price, there is a good array of Sav Hercules in different shapes. There is the MM freehand which has a fine deep and wide-enough chamber ... but also, many many others. So if you are after good, big cylindrical bowls, and you have any doubts buying online, just call up the online retailer, make sure you are speaking to someone with some know-how, and walk them through the discussion. Even my Nording freehand fills this bill, so you need only ask and make sure. Get the name of the staff person so you can send it back if necessary. This was an enterprising fix for the dissatisfaction at hand, but not everyone has the necessary tools and, most important, skill to carry this off, and it is an extra expense of time.

 
Mar 1, 2014
3,647
4,917
I've been thinking about putting a mark on modified pipes. For now punching a star beside the name should do.

I've done some shaping inside the button on almost every pipe I own, I guess I should put a mark on the front of the stem inside the joint for those.
MSO, I agree that you can find shapes with wide bores, but the goal with the Nording specifically is to have a Churchwarden with a wide bore. Those are excessively uncommon. Though I just found out this week that Nording sells Churchwarden stems that fit on any of their freehand pipes, which would have made things a lot easier. Now if I could just turn back time...
Savinelli makes a lot of nice wide bore pots (or Rossi Lucca), I've very nearly bought a few of them, but the Aero here was basically just purchased to pad my order while buying another pipe and get free shipping from Pipedivan, so I wasn't overly particular about that specific pipe and I felt free to experiment with it when I set out on the Nording.

 
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