Basic Restoration Kit Advice

It might be worth checking out this. It's Walker Briar Works stem restoration kit from mkelaw-pipes.com. The website says it's geared to people without buffers and it looks effective and easy to apply.

Dang! I meant no harm. :lol:
I'm sure the more experienced folks will chime in shortly.

For your stem work you want a set of Micro-Mesh, either pads or paper. It's sandpaper in grits from 1500 to 12,000. The human eye cannot detect scratches as small as 12,000 paper produces so the bits look shinny and it can all be done by hand. Most of the restorers use them. They produce excellent results without the issues over buffing creates. A must have for bits if you want them to shine.
Rim damage can be camouflaged by getting a set of grinding stones (Husky - Home Depot - 1/4 inch shaft). The inside edge of the rim can them be beveled removing the gouging from sight. It can be done with an electric drill but you need to do it with care. I've done it to several pipes with just the problem you have mentioned. It's a lot easier than Topping and doesn't change the visual proportions of the pipe but can often re-establish a nice round edge.

Hope that's helpful.

What gloucesterman said.
A set of needle files works wonders for tooth chatter. I'd practice on some busted stems first. It's real easy to fubar a stem with files if you're not careful.

Gloucesterman and Dave g have given you sound advice. The kit stickframer mentions is great for finishing a stem without a buffing wheel - it is what I use as a final step.

+1 on most of this, but keep in mind that when you take to grinding the rims, you're likely to have to restain the rim. Here's what I use for basic cosmetics:
isopropyl alcohol

nylon shank brushes

tapered and non tapered bristle pipe cleaners

tapered and non tapered pipe cleaners
Pipnet reamers - I had a Castleford set and trashed it after I discovered that one of the blades had a piece of bur on it and it gouged the chamber wall. The quality of the Castleford is not the equal of the Pipnet. To me they are a cheap Chinese knock off and they're garbage. If you must use a Castleford, check the set thoroughly before buying to make sure that they have been made properly.
Swedish stainless steel reamers - Their diameters are different from the Pipnet, so I get complete coverage for chamber sizes and for keeping cake trimmed.
Micromesh kit for cleaning and stripping oxidation from the stems. If you are going to sand the stem on the pipe. get a few small metal spacers to place between the shank and the stem. That way you won't sand the shank when sanding the stem.
fine sanding paper for removing cake where the reamer is a bad idea. Most reamers are cylindrical and can cause damage on a conical chamber if you are not careful. Ream a conical chamber with a Buttner type reamer, but do so carefully.
Simichrome polish - works for renewing a slightly dulled stem that is otherwise clean.
Paragon and Halcyon waxes - done right, they can deliver a polish that is as bright as a buffer and carnuba wax. I don't use a soft rag as it doesn't give me a glossy result. I literally hand polish by spreading a tiny amount on my finger tips and rub it over the pipe, let it set for a moment, then rub the pipe in the palms of my hands, letting the polish rub against itself. I always get a glass-like shine when I do this. Use these sparingly or you will get a gummy result.
Kosher salt for S&A treatment, or cotton balls.
pipe retort.
Work slowly and carefully so that you don't do any damage.
lots of rags - old socks are really useful
Q-tips and dental picks for the mortise to remove all of the deposits that the slobs who previously owned the pipe were too lazy to remove as part of maintenance.
To clean the rim of tar and carbon build up, spit and a rag do a good job. Some people use coffee instead of spit.
Once I have cleaned up a pipe, I keep it clean. I rarely use alcohol to clean the shank airway for regular maintenance as it leaches out the silicate deposits in the wood that make it resistant to burning. I do use alcohol for cleaning out the stem airway.

I do use the following tools:
- bench buffer with three wheels (medium, fine, very fine for wax) and medium and fine polishing wax plus one

carnauba bar

- Pipenet and Senior reamer

- electric heat gun

- retort (DIY)

- lot´s of pipe cleaners

- even more Q-Tips

- Alcohol

- different grades of sanding paper

- different wood stains of your choice

- a lighter to burn the wood stains

- rubber gloves
- cotton wool

- demakeup pads

- dust respirator!!!!!!!

- a lot of rags and rolls of paper towel
I don´t use salt but cotton wool, I rely on sanding the inside of the bowls with two grades of sanding paper (100 and 400 grit), I heat up my retort only with the heat gun (no open flame!!!) and I sometimes even coat the bowls form the inside (hey I am European, what do you expect?).

I couldn´t live without my bench buffer because my attention span is much too short for micromeshing my stems.... :roll:

I have an extra pipnet set. I'll send it to at the same cost. Also you need micromesh pads, $10-$20 on ebay for a set of 10-20 pads. A retort kit and lots of alcohol, plus lots of QTips.
Cheers,

Chris

I'll add this, buy every style of reamer you can find, they are all a little different and you will eventually find a use for each of them. That being said, I use my Buttner most often.

and I sometimes even coat the bowls form the inside (hey I am European, what do you expect?).

Click to expand...

Of course! :rofl: