A visit to Paolo Becker

We have just returned from another trip to Rome (where I work occasionally in the Vatican Archives,) and I took the time off to visit Paolo Becker at his atelier, Via della Panetteria, 49. I had previously e-mailed him to let him know I would be coming and his response was most gracious. When my wife and I arrived, he greeted us most warmly, and showed us around the workshop. What does the workshop of one of the world's most famous pipe makers look like? Probably like any other––the usual array of woodworking tools, the real difference residing in the personality of the artisan. He noted that he had very few pipes currently in the shop, because he had just sent off two boxloads to China. It seems that with their newfound affluence, the Chinese have acquired a taste for some of the finer things in life, and quality tobacco pipes apparently indicate significant status in China's ever-changing culture. I'm happy for Paolo because it means lots of good business for him, though it also meant that my selection was significantly diminished.

He showed me what he had available in the shop at that moment, and while the selection was admittedly small, there were 2 among the few (a dozen or so) that caught my eye, and if fortune smiles I'll be able to upload their pictures on this posting. Paolo is a master of the art of making strawberry wood pipes, so I had to buy one from him, but my heart was also drawn to a very attractive briar, also a sandblast. After chatting a bit, he said "I see that you are quite knowledgeable about pipes," and he quoted me a price for either of the pipes, significantly lower than the list. Indeed, the strawberry wood was higher-priced than the briar, but he said "I will let you have it at the same price.”

Decisions…decisions––what to do? I told him that I was having great difficulty deciding between the 2 and asked for a combined price, which he promptly did, at a price significantly lower, and beyond what I had contemplated spending that day, but I just had to have them. And just imagine, I did this in the presence of my wife!

So here they are. I have already smoked the strawberry, and confessed that it's a delight. The Brier will have to wait a few weeks. by the way, it's always a good idea to declare them when you go through customs, because these guys really know their stuff, and they know the value of things. I displayed the pipes and the receipt, the man nodded, said “enjoy,” and waved me on.

By the way, some of the photos are rotated. Not sure how that happened.

Just enjoyed my second smoke in the Strawberry. After about 45 minutes, I felt the pipe going out, so I went through the drill of keeping the pipe going without a relight and got a couple more puffs out of it. then I looked inside the pipe, tipped it over and a fine drey ash slowly poured into the ashtray with no unburned tobacco bits left. I had smoked it down to a clean, dry ash. What a pipe!

flmason wrote

I also hope that you enjoyed your entire trip.

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Indeed we did. We spent quite a few hours at the Vatican archives, met with Archbishop Mamberti, the Secretary for Relations with States (i.e., Foreign Minister,) several other officials at the Secretariat of State, had a tour of the Papal Palace of the sort not given to tourists, visited the Popes private chapel, also not open to tourists, where we viewed Michaelangel's last two frescoes, the Crucifixion of Peter and the Conversion of Paul, a quick runthroough in the Vatican Gardens (with a promise of more the next time,) and then spent time touring Rome. St. Peter's--always an obligatory tour, the Basilica of San Nicola in Carcere, the Basilica of San Clemente, our favorite Gelatto: Giolitti, and several trips to the Tazza d'Oro, our favorite coffee shop--and then the meals--so many restaurants, so little time. Drove out to Bastianelli's, where the Tiber flows into the Mediterranean, and several other restaurants around Rome that have become almost pilgrimage spots for us. No Papal audience, but then our work didn't call for that on this trip, so I didn't even bring a suit. (I've had three private audiences, so I can't complain.)

the trip was wonderful, and we were reluctant, as always, to head back to the airport.

Uberame3rica asked

Which one is the strawberry wood?

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It's the smaller one. Not certain what name to give to the shape--I don't want to call it a Rhodesian, but it's reminiscent of one. Perhaps you can help me out there. the larger one is a briar, and reflects Becker's creativity--again, I could use some help describing the shape.

Uberam3rica wrote

I'd call the smaller one a Rhodesian, just his interpretation of the shape. The bigger one I'd call a blowfish

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Thanks for the info. Funny thing, I've always said I don't care that much for the blowfish shape, but when I saw this one in Becker's workshop, I just had to have it. Now it's peanut butter sandwiches for the next six months.