Wee Bit of Cake (GBD 549 New Standard)

[ssjones]

I took a gamble on this one, but was rewarded with a great looking pipe. It's amazing at what kind of abuse briar will take. This one is available in the Buy/Sell/Trade section.
Full details here:

https://rebornpipes.com/2016/07/02/wee-bit-of-cake-gbd-549-new-standard/
Before

Finished. The GBD beveled bowl top was hiding under all that crud and a near mint bowl top and interior was revealed.

 

[georged]

 

[jefff]

Geez... The before pics remind me of my grandfathers pipes.

 

[snagstangl]

I see how it is, you get one fancy dunhill and you start selling off your GDBs.

 

[danielplainview]

Holy Cake Boss batman. Nice save.
Take it easy George. It's a factory stem.

 

[georged]

Take it easy George. It's a factory stem.

I was suggesting that squaring the shank to eliminate the gap was a skipped step. It doesn't require any special tools, and Al should be able to do it.
(Unless something is REALLY wrong with a stem, factory or otherwise, its tenon will be square.)

 

[ssjones]

I actually didn't have it pushed in all the way, discovered after the photos....
I have a 549 Virgin, so I can't go backwards.

 

[ssjones]

@george: Actually my new Dunhill 488 could use that tweak - care to elaborate on the process? That's one fix that I have not attempted.

 

[georged]

george: Actually my new Dunhill 488 could use that tweak - care to elaborate on the process? That's one fix that I have not attempted.

It's straightforward. All that's required is a full sheet of 800 grit sandpaper; a wide strip of tape; a smooth, flat surface; and practice.
Tape the paper to the flat surface only along the top. All cutting/sanding will be PULLING, not pushing or side-to-side, and the paper must not be allowed to "ride up" in a bulge in front of the pressure. Taping only the top edge will prevent that.
Hold the stummel by its shank close to its end, like a pencil or pen when writing except straight up. Stabilize everything by letting the side of your hand touch the flat surface normally, and let it stay in contact when dragging/pulling the shank-end across the paper.



BE ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE BEFORE STARTING EVERY STROKE that the shank face is in flat contact. You must learn to feel it. It's a sensation similar to balancing something on your finger tip. With experience, it's almost a "suction cup" sensation.
When ready, apply a gentle downward pressure and draw/pull the stummel toward the elbow of your holding arm. IF IT CHATTERS, STOP IMMEDIATELY and rotate the stummel an eighth turn or so and try again. Repeat as necessary until no chattering occurs. You want it to glide. Every stummel has a chatter-less "glide" orientation. You must find it before proceeding.
After a few 4"-5" drags, insert the stem into the stummel and check using a backlight. Locate the high spot, and repeat the sandpapeer dragging process while---and this is the tricky part---applying a bit more pressure to the high spot while still keeping the shank face in full contact with the flat surface. Sounds slightly crazy, like a contradiction in terms, but it isn't. It just takes practice and developing a "feel".
After a few "uneven pressure" drags, test the light gap again.
Repeat as necessary until all light gaps are gone.
Then re-stain the end of the shank with a NEARLY DRY Q-tip (so the grain isn't raised), and she's cooked. :D

 

[ssjones]

Ok, that is with the stem pushed in all the way..

Thanks George, I'll give that a shot on the Dunhill

 

[ssjones]

Thanks for the detail George. I'll practice on something other than my new Root Briar...

I've seen this fix before, but that involved sanding the stem more square, with it inserted into a piece of wood with a hole and sandpaper afixed to the wood. I think your method is less risky.

 

[aeropuffer]

What a beautiful pipe. I've never thought of looking at "Buy it Now"

 

[mawnansmiff]

George, I like your method. I have done it myself though using 1000 grit and moving the shank with a very small circular motion. It took a while but worked a treat.
Regards,
Jay.

 

[georged]

George, I like your method. I have done it myself though using 1000 grit and moving the shank with a very small circular motion. It took a while but worked a treat.

Interesting. I'll have to experiment with that. It would require "less grabby" grit paper (like 1000) for sure.. Could be a faster way to zero in on the high spot, though. Thanks :D
The "right" way to square most shanks is on a lathe with a pin gauge, of course, but there are shank cross sections that won't allow it, never mind 99% of home/hobby refurbishers not having such tools.