And of course it's been alleged that Dunhill ( and other English houses) bought bowls for other shapes from St. Claude factories
More than alleged, it was an admitted fact and formed the heart of the debate in the 1928 hearings held by the Standing Committee (General Merchandise) of the Board of Trade into what pipes should or should not be entitled to be marked as of domestic manufacture (i.e. bear stamps stating that they were made in "London" or "England").
It was an almost universal industry practice (although not one known to the British public) for many years to import bowls turned in France, finish them in England, and label them with domestic nomenclature. Barling, which claimed to turn all its own bowls in London (the operative word here is "claimed"), brought the issue before the Standing Committee, requesting that all pipes whose bowls were turned in France be marked as of foreign manufacture. Almost all of the rest of the industry joined in opposition to Barling's clearly self-interested request. The story is long and involved, but the relevant part here is that Dunhill definitely turned almost all its bowls in France for years, both for economic reasons and because there was an absence of the relevant skill among English pipeworkers.
Here is an extract of Vernon Dunhill's testimony on this point:
We employ at present about 350 hands in our Pipe Factory - of these only 2 are turners and 2 are bowl filers - the two turners being French subjects who came over to England under the Ministry of Labour permits.
Our cost for turning and pumicing bowls in London is just over 3/- per dozen - this cost we admit is high, and we know that our bowl turning in London is done at a loss but we keep our Bowl shop running to give service to our customers.
The St. Claude (France) cost of turning and pumicing is approximately 9d. per dozen.
[to translate for Americans this means the cost of turning a bowl in England was a bit over 4 times the cost of a bowl turned in France]
Our standard quality pipes are made from roughly the best three pieces out of a gross of selected briar root blocks. In order to carefully select this cream of the Bruyere, the blocks of root must be turned into bowls. If we had to turn all the root in London we should have to turn a quantity practically 48 times greater than the number of required bowls in order to obtain the extra quality grade used in the complete pipe.
...
Regarding labour for turning and filing - these are very highly skilled and specialised trades - so much so that we believe the majority of the few bowl turners actually working in this country are French. Should we attempt to turn all bowls in England, we are convinced it would be impossible to find the required skilled labour in this Country.
----------------------------------------------------------
Dunhill goes on to dilate on the obstacles to importing the requisite labor into England.
His arguments were echoed (and others brought to bear) in voluminous testimony by representatives of Comoy, GBD, Civic and Sasieni.