Yep.Sorry for a dumb question that’s probably answered many places: when you’re sanding and polishing a vulcanite stem by hand, especially to get rid of oxidation, is there a trick to getting the groove between the button and the bit? Thanks!
Much obliged!Specifically right around the 7 minute mark…
Careful with any grit lower, more aggressive, than 1000. You can easily destroy a stem with an abrasive that rough if you've never sanded vulcanite before.Ok. Got it! Thanks all. I figured right. This was a bit of a dumb question. I could have researched this more.
I don't think it's a dumb question. I've struggled with that area for hours on pipes before!Ok. Got it! Thanks all. I figured right. This was a bit of a dumb question. I could have researched this more.
I don't think it's a dumb question. I've struggled with that area for hours on pipes before!
I’m in Japan and I’ve tried to get micromesh. I can’t get exactly that unfortunately. Or not at a reasonable price at least. So I use paper.I use the micromesh pads, so I can turn the pad sideways top get that lip on the bit. Plus, they go up to such a fine micron, that they don't need but a quick buff with a polishing cloth when done. I am pro micromesh!!! Make pipe life much easier. Just hold the stem under water and rub away.
This makes sense. Thanks. I’ve ordered nail files finally.A piece 1500-2000g wet dry wrapped around a tongue depressor works. You can make your own button sanding boards with some 3M trim tape, tongue depressors, and sandpaper, this negates the need to wrap it and prevents sanding into the front of the button and miss-shaping it.