Starting out with pipe rehab

[brass]

So, I've read many of the backposts and guess I'm convinced I shouldn't plan on restoring stems using a variable speed dremel.
I'm thinking of starting with a couple of pipes doing everything manually, then buying a 1750 speed buffer.
I looked on Amazon and the closest buffer was 10" at 1725 RPM - right around $300.
Where might I find a deal on a used one - or is ebay it?
Thanks.

 

[tuold]

This is what I use:

 

[brass]

Thanks TuOld. Is it hard handling the drill and stem with one hand? Any advantage of the drill over a dremmel? An adjustable speed dremmel was my first thought.

 

[gloucesterman]

They say you shouldn't use them but I've been using a standard bench grinder for years. It requires a very light touch because they will grab the pipe but with some care it can be used. I don't usually buff with it. I use it to apply wax. If I'm cleaning I prefer to use something like Amish Wood Milk. It cleans and removes the wax but not the stain. On textured pipes I'll use it with a tooth brush. Then I use the grinder to apply wax. Danielplainview has done a couple of posts on waxing and I had some excellent results following those guidelines. The picture below will give you some Idea of what you can achieve

 

[danielplainview]

I've used a variable speed hand held drill for many restorations and the results are just as nice as a bench top buffer, although holding the drill and pipe will take some getting used to. As far stem work, I do 99% of the work by hand with sand paper or micro mesh, only using a buffer for a 30 second finishing touch. While sanding the stem, I wrap the briar in plastic and tape the shank near the stem. I leave the stem connected to pipe to keep the stem/shank connection from being rounded. Refurbishing the briar is whole other story.

 

[pruss]

I use a standard bench grinder for application of wax and for some buffing. I adjust the SFPM of the buffer by shrinking the wheel size, and am using the Beall Buffing System with four inch wheels.
Like Dave/Danielplainview, I do almost all my stem work by hand starting with an oxyclean soak and magic eraser scrub followed by a run through all the grits of micromesh sanding pads before using the buffer to apply carnauba. I finish all my pipes with a hand buff with a dunhill pipe wipe.
http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/restored-kaywoodie-flame-grain-13b-author-drinkless-very-pic-heavy
-- Pat

 

[delkhouri]

Check out Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-grinder-buffer-94327.html
Replace the grinding wheel with another buffer wheel.

 

[tuold]

Brass, I hold the drill on my knee with my right hand and the pipe with my left. It does require a little dexterity with the left hand but you are using such low RPMs that you should never have a problem.
The problem with the Dremel is that the polishing pads are so small it's hard to get equal coverage and takes a long time to cover the entire pipe. Believe me, I tried it. The three inch and six inch wheels with the variable speed drill are much easier and faster. I still recommend you hand finish with a soft cloth though.

 

[brass]

Tuold, are you right handed?
OK, dremmel seems to be a poor choice according to everyone who has posted so far. Choice is between a drill and bench buffer.
I'll probably start with the drill since, I already have one. Just need to find the pads.
If I go with a bench buffer, I've read here that 1750 rpm is best. Most I've seen are around 3600. What are the pro's and con's of the speeds?
I do thank you all for your input. Pat, what an excellent tutorial.

 

[pruss]

1750rpm or variable speed grinders which can drop to this level are generally preferred. They apply wax more evenly, are less likely to grab and throw your pipe, stem, or apron strings, and will produce a more even sand and polish.
It is possible to soften the impact of a 3600rpm grinder by reducing wheel size. RPM isn't really the issue we're fighting with faster or slower grinders, the thing we need to address is surface feet per minute (SFPM). Formula for calculating S.F.P.M. is S.F.P.M.=1/4 diameter of buff multiplied by the spindle speed in R.P.M. Thus, an 8" wheel @ 3,600 R.P.M. =2 x 3600 R.P.M. or 7200 S.F.P.M... 4" wheels would deliver an SFPM of 3600. Which is the sweet spot for buffing.
There was a good thread on this here: http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/bench-grinder-as-a-buffer
-- Pat

 

[okiescout]

Thanks for the info on wheels, Pat.
I am just getting into this end of the hobby and have been confused about the buffing aspects.

While reading many cases where guys were discussing stems which had been over-buffed logos, stem face, etc thus lowering the value of the pipe, I had become confused on how best to proceed with equipment.

 

[brudnod]

I do as Tuold does but I don't sit and don't put the drill on my knee. Drill in the right hand, pipe in the left. I use 3 inch buffing pads and always have 3 in use at any time: Red or white rouge, carnauba wax and for polishing silver.

 

[pruss]

A low speed wheel at around 1750 trumps all, as far as I'm concerned. Lots of folks get there by using old washing machine or furnace motors to drive their wheels. This is often the most affordable route.
Good luck, feel free to PM with questions.
-- Pat

 

[brudnod]

Just another note: The drill I use has a button for holding the drill speed constant without holding the trigger, allowing me to concentrate on the buffing.

 

[gloucesterman]

If you use a bench grinder make sure you remove the guards. They can put a serious gouge in a pipe if the buffing wheel grabs it. Removing them will also let you use more of the buffing wheel area so you're not forcing the pipe into a position where it is likely to be grabbed.

 

[okiescout]

Thanks guys!