Pipe Stems Still Brown - Help!

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Troutlaw

Lurker
Apr 6, 2023
5
22
Alrighty so I’ll follow this post up with a couple pictures. Long story short I’m trying my hand at refurbishing an old pipe. Got a Savinelli Antique Shell Briar and got to work on the stem. Oxyclean bath for a few hours + toothpaste/toothbrush cleaning. Repeated this until the water was clear. Took some micromesh to it until she was smooth but it still has this brown coloration.

Did I not let it soak in the oxyclean bath enough? Does she need to be taken to the buffer wheel? Any help is appreciated, gentlemen!

-Troutlaw
 
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Chasing Embers

Captain of the Black Frigate
Nov 12, 2014
45,238
119,170

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
20,979
50,229
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Oxyclean is useless against oxidation. People keep looking for a short cut and there is no short cut. The infected material has to be physically removed until it's gone, and that means sanding it off. 1000 grit is a good start, then work your way through micromesh pads, the coarser to further remove oxidized vulcanite and once you hit black, the finer grits to bring it to a mirror like shine. Keep these out of sunlight.
 

jakesmokes

Starting to Get Obsessed
May 30, 2015
273
5,591
29
Michigan
This is what works for me. I’m a painter (auto) so I use mostly the same stuff I would buff a car with on a my pipes. I start with a 3m ultra fine sand sponge It’s (800-1000) grit. I use that wet, I sand in the sink with it running the water helps keep the stem shiny so you can see where the black starts and the brown stops. I sand with that untill it’s all black. Then I use 3m 1500,2000 wet dry sand paper wet until I think I’ve gotten all the scratches out from the previous grit. Then I use 3m trizact foam backed 3,000 grit wet until I feel like I’ve gotten all the 2,000 grit scratches out. After all that I buff with a dremel on the lowest setting with a foam pad.B8A232F9-1612-4522-BB94-D4A788276C3E.jpegI buff with 3m perfect it buffing compound 36060 with the more aggressive foam pad then follow that up with 3m perfect it polishing compound 06094 with the finest foam pad. Soap and water till clean then a coat of mineral oil and wipe it down with a microfiber towel.C8FE5BBF-328A-443A-A8F3-7FAAF09A93CF.jpeg71978935-F1DE-4829-9AD0-A4A191EBA93B.jpeg
 

Chasing Embers

Captain of the Black Frigate
Nov 12, 2014
45,238
119,170
that means sanding it off
Or scorching it off.


I buff with 3m perfect it buffing compound 36060 with the more aggressive foam pad then follow that up with 3m perfect it polishing compound 06094 with the finest foam pad. Soap and water till clean then a coat of mineral oil and wipe it down with a microfiber towel.
I remove the oxidation with a lighter and a wet paper towel then bring it to a mirror shine by thumb buffing with toothpaste.

20221008_010444.jpg20221008_010501.jpg20221027_153701.jpg
 

captpat

Lifer
Dec 16, 2014
2,388
12,411
North Carolina
As others have said there's no secret sauce, oxidized stem material has to be removed. One needs to be careful using dremel or buffing wheels as those tools can remove material astonishingly quickly. Before you know it the stem markings are gone forever. I prefer using wet/dry sandpaper or micromesh pads, using the buffer only to apply and polish the final wax.

Oxidation will not stop and one needs to continually attend to the proper care of a rubber stem (keep it coated, out of sunlight, etc.) and that's the main reason that I prefer acrylic stems.
 

jeff540

Part of the Furniture Now
Jan 25, 2016
518
799
Southwest Virginia
Might just be my body chemistry, but old Vulcanite tastes like a trash fire to me no matter how shiny it gets, because the oxidized crud is also on the inside of the stem. I've sent several pipes to Boswell's for replacement with Lucite, which is my permanent fix. It's like $40 and you never have to f**k with it again.
 
Dec 3, 2021
5,541
48,098
Pennsylvania & New York
I’ve had good success with Before & After Deoxidizer by La Belle Epoque:


After treatment, the stem will have a slight matte finish that you may wish to polish to a greater shine. But the stem will not be pitted the way I’ve seen OxyClean treatments have left some stems. Very often, I see restorations take the shine to a much higher gloss than factory issue (like a dripping wet candied apple), so I don’t always feel that’s the approach I want to take. These days, I usually use a higher grit buffing pad and take the finish to a slight sheen by hand, then coat with Obsidian Oil.