Sits a little crooked, but adds character. Still struglling getting this ebonite buttery smooth. Gotta try some new things. That stem profile is tough by hand.
Made Pipe #28 - The Freehand Sitter
- Thread starter clickklick
- Start date
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That's a beautiful pipe sir, and I like it not sitting exactly straight, to me it shows that it was truly hand made. Very nice, congrats.
One of my William Andersons sits at an angle. It's part of what I love about it so much. That's a fantastic freehand there. Well done.
Thank you for the kind words!
janosh - I am currently ramping up for the Chicago Show in May. Some will scoff at that idea since I am still in my infancy and only started 10 months ago, but I'm in it for the fun. That being said, anything after May 1st will be fair game. My current commission waiting list is up to 8 pipes. And they are all really patient with me insisting I don't start on any of them until after the Chicago show. Although I have to say I'll be much less "rushed" so they get a better pipe in the long run. Those 8 pipes will probably take me about 4 months to complete. Since this is just a hobby, I can get about 1 pipe done every 2 weeks. Feel free to PM me with any more questions.
janosh - I am currently ramping up for the Chicago Show in May. Some will scoff at that idea since I am still in my infancy and only started 10 months ago, but I'm in it for the fun. That being said, anything after May 1st will be fair game. My current commission waiting list is up to 8 pipes. And they are all really patient with me insisting I don't start on any of them until after the Chicago show. Although I have to say I'll be much less "rushed" so they get a better pipe in the long run. Those 8 pipes will probably take me about 4 months to complete. Since this is just a hobby, I can get about 1 pipe done every 2 weeks. Feel free to PM me with any more questions.
clickklick, from the looks of your work, it's a good time to jump in and learn the market. I think you'll do well with sales, but more important, you'll learn a lot from talking to other carvers and customers. You'll put up with some guff -- both a little hazing from the long-time carvers, and the required b.s. from customer know-it-alls and eccentrics, but that should mostly be fun. The Chicago show isn't right in Chicago, so you might want to work in a side trip, unless you live in the area anyway. I grew up there, in a near northwest suburb, but didn't have a car for most of those years, too young or too poor. The other benefit will be seeing the rarified and exalted pipes of some of the premier carvers, which might make you feel a little intimidated, but will also motivate and inspire your work. Glad you have some commissions in your pocket.
Beautiful work!!! I love it. It is "like" Danish, except tighter and more... contrived. Most of the Danish freehands like that just look like they were cranked out by one guy making hundreds of stummels in a day, freehand, loose proportions. Even the Italians have to get the funk out of their trunks before attempting this style. But, I like yours, even if it is tight in the trunk. It looks planned, but that's ok. I think it helps that transition from stummel to stem that drives me crazy about those Danish styles freehands. The stems on those look like an after thought. But, yours looks like you put some thought into it. Bravo!!
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One cannot fault the stummel. It appears to be flawless. Ok, here's my attempt to share my opinion without causing any ruckus.
I think the stem is a bit muscular. I think that a more 'refined' stem is called for. Thinner here and there might do it?
I think the stem is a bit muscular. I think that a more 'refined' stem is called for. Thinner here and there might do it?
Newbroom, I completely agree and that is something I will be focusing on moving forward. That stem needs thinning for this stummel profile to look like it truly fits.
Part of the reason it is so thick on this one is because I am scared of filing down too much and hitting the delrin tenon, which I have done more times than I want to admit, this renders the stem completely useless and I want to avoid it like the plague since starting a stem over after spending a few hours on it takes a lot of "fun" out of it
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I need to learn how to flirt with that limit so as to make the stem profiles really "pop". But I do agree, in looking at the pictures, it muscles the rest of the pipe, although the effect is less so in person. I appreciate the candidness as this helps me improve, which is my goal!
Part of the reason it is so thick on this one is because I am scared of filing down too much and hitting the delrin tenon, which I have done more times than I want to admit, this renders the stem completely useless and I want to avoid it like the plague since starting a stem over after spending a few hours on it takes a lot of "fun" out of it
. I need to learn how to flirt with that limit so as to make the stem profiles really "pop". But I do agree, in looking at the pictures, it muscles the rest of the pipe, although the effect is less so in person. I appreciate the candidness as this helps me improve, which is my goal!
Sure lohengrin,
I'm having issues getting all of the tooling marks out of ebonite. I go through my normal process of 120 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, then 600 grit and even try some emery boards behind the button. But for some reason I cant see the tooling marks left until after I start polishing, which means I shouldn't have left the 120grit stage. I don't have this same issue with acrylic, I can see all of those scratches. Its almost like I need to buff between grits so that I can better see if I can move to the next grit or not.
This is my 4th time with ebonite, so I still have lots to improve on.
I'm having issues getting all of the tooling marks out of ebonite. I go through my normal process of 120 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, then 600 grit and even try some emery boards behind the button. But for some reason I cant see the tooling marks left until after I start polishing, which means I shouldn't have left the 120grit stage. I don't have this same issue with acrylic, I can see all of those scratches. Its almost like I need to buff between grits so that I can better see if I can move to the next grit or not.
This is my 4th time with ebonite, so I still have lots to improve on.
I use grits from 120 to 2000 and have the same problems, above all when I forget to clean the stem with a wet towel to see the marks everytime I change grit (somebody moisten the ebonite while sanding it).
In this case I sand again with the various grits, but only the zones where I find marks.
Anyway it is a rather long and boring process.
Lastly I polish with red stone and carnauba wax.
In this case I sand again with the various grits, but only the zones where I find marks.
Anyway it is a rather long and boring process.
Lastly I polish with red stone and carnauba wax.
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