Knute 7 Freehand (Karl Erik)

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Nov 28, 2011
7
0
So I've just won this auction for the pipe mentioned in the thread topic, see it here.
I only payed $30 and cents, shipped. Looking at the prices on the newer Karl Eriks, I can't help but feel like I got an amazing deal. This will be my FIRST pipe, so I'm pretty inexperienced with judging the value of things like this. Would anyone be willing to share their two cents? :D

 

aussielass

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 18, 2011
513
1
Your "first pipe" and first win on ebay ... I'm glad my sniping finger pulled back ... that is lovely pipe, I especially liked the stem on it.

 
Nov 28, 2011
7
0
Wow, well I'm glad everyone approves. :D Has anyone had any sort of experience with Knute? I read on pipedia that it was produced by Karl Erik, but A.) I'm not sure how much I'll actually be able to tell about the pipe ging on just that relationship alone, and B.) I'm not sure what to expect of Karl Eriks in the first place.
I may just have to get back to you guys and gals whenever I get it cleaned up and try it out. ...Though with my inexperience, the most I'll probably be able to say is, "I like it," or "I shouldn't've bought it."
Ahahahah, and thanks for your consideration Aussielass. ^_^ Three people tried to snipe me at once on that one, actually. I knew it would be coming, so I countersniped all of them with twice the current high bid in the last four seconds of the auction. It may be my first bid on ebay, but I've spoken wity enough experienced bidders to know how it goes.... Heheheheheh.

 

bigvan

Lifer
Mar 22, 2011
2,192
14
@schmitzbitz - "steam out" bit marks? I've never heard of that. Please tell me more!

 

ichbinmuede

Part of the Furniture Now
Feb 17, 2011
643
1
Bigvan, sometimes bite marks haven't so much worn away the vulcanite as they have compressed it. Sometimes a little heat will raise them up.

 

schmitzbitz

Lifer
Jan 13, 2011
1,165
2
Port Coquitlam, B.C.
Bigvan, sometimes bite marks haven't so much worn away the vulcanite as they have compressed it. Sometimes a little heat will raise them up.
To expand on this, this is my method.
If the stem is in decent shape (like the one pictured):

I'll clean up the surface with micromesh, but this is just to get rid of any gunk that may have formed a layer around the button area.

I then heat up a needle (ok, so I use a metal scribe) to red hot. Put a drop of water (some people say distilled, I say foo on them, tap is fine) in the offensive dent, and apply the tip of the needle. If the tooth-mark is a compression dent, this will raise it back to "flat" (you will still need to fine-tune with micromesh or sandpaper).

This method also works for raising dings in bowls and wooden furniture.
If the stem is chewed up something fierce (VULCANITE ONLY!!!):

I simply bring a pot of water to the verge of boiling, dip the button end of the stem for a few seconds, then remove and allow to cool. Repeat as required. It also behooves you to keep a pipe-cleaner in the airway if you use this method, to counter any collapse.

The biggest downside to this method is that it causes mass oxidization, and will require some serious elbow-grease or grinder time to bring back to black (or a bleach bath), but it does work wonders on destroyed buttons.
Bite-throughs: Every so often, I'll bite the bullet and bid on a lot of stems on Ebay. While some of these will be cleaned up to replace questionable stems on estates, the majority end up in a box. If I have to repair a bite-though, I'll grab one of these stems, and start sanding until I get a decent pile of (vulcanite, derlyn, or lucite) dust. I'll then mix this with a quick set epoxy, and fill the offending hole. Hit the area with sand-paper to bring it back to flat, and you should have an almost invisible repair.
BONUS - Hallmarks (makers marks):

I will often simply allow the original paint to dissolve, then re-paint with a fine brush and White-Out. If the design is more intricate and I don't want to try and recreate it, or uses more than one colour/metallic colours, I'll put a dab of Vasoline over it before introducing any of the liquid restoration methods. The same goes for aluminum parts (tenons, etc). I use a detail sander and dental pick to get into the crannies in these areas.

 

mlaug

Part of the Furniture Now
May 23, 2010
908
3
Iowa
I have always wondered something and I have no idea what I'm talking about, but I wish someone would make replacement stems with the hallmarks stamped on them.
Is it a trademark thing?
Anyway....thats a nice pipe for a first. I'm a huge Danish fan. Karl Ottendahl died in 2004. I remember reading the news on the internet. His was the first reference I'd ever heard to a "broken pipe". Its nice to think that you can continue to use and enjoy something made by someone no longer with us. That, in itself, makes it a special pipe to me.

 
Nov 28, 2011
7
0
Schmitzbitz, thanks so much for that walkthrough, that will be very helpful when the pipe arrives. Is there any easy way to tell what the pipe stem material is?
mlaug, I very much agree with you. That's one of the things that really attracted me to this pipe. I guess Karl lives on in his work, eh?

 

ohin3

Lifer
Jun 2, 2010
2,455
44
Man that is a nice looking pipe at a nice price. I have never smoked a Karl Eric but everyone that I know who has seems to agree that they are very well engineered pipes at a very affordable price.

 
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