Interesting Fix for Screw-On Tenons

[numbersix]

I'll bet old-time pipe restorers are well aware of this trick, but it's new to me...
Anyway, I have a meer with a vulcanite stem that has a screw-on tenon (like a Kaywoodie might have).
Something like this:

When my meer's stem was screwed on all the way, the button/slot was crooked (I know some Kaywoodies do this on purpose, so that it will line up after years of use, but mine was past that point).
Anyway, I tried the heat with a bic method for cleaning up oxidation that was recently posted and unexpectedly the screw-on tenon came right out from the stem.
So I screwed the metal tenon back into the shank (sans stem), then I pushed the vulcanite stem back onto the tenon with the button/slot perfectly aligned.
Once cooled, the tenon was fused back in the stem. The result is that I now have a nice and straight stem with the button properly aligned and horizontal.
EDIT: if a mod would be so kind as to move this thread the the "PIPE REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE" forum, I'd be obliged.

Edit: Done,L.

 

[ghost]

Great post Six, this sounds like a neat solution.

 

[tbradsim1]

EJames is the man to ask about this, I believe he has done a lot of this fix, very knowledgeable about Kaywoodies and Dr Grabows, I would PM him IMHO. The old cajun

 

[cortezattic]

I had a Kaywoodie (Supergrain H9 Hi-Bole) c.1965. Its stem was over-clocked, as they say; so I inserted a very small screwdriver shaft thru the stinger holes for leverage, and torqued the stinger into the correct position.
My take on it was that the stinger was force-fitted into the stem -- it spun around, but with a lot of friction.

 

[numbersix]

Roth - I would fully expect it to work on a Kaywoodie the same as my meer, so long as the stem was a vulcanite one.
Also, I only gently heated the stem, but it did for a split second let off some smoke which caused me to instantly pull it away - so it did get hot.
Finally FWIW, I didn't actually align the stem button perfectly horizontal when I pushed it back on. I "under-clocked" it a little bit. Then after about 30 mins cooling off, when I unscrewed the stem (with the tenon fully fused with it) - and re-screwed it back on, it aligned perfectly.

 

[puffy]

Do pipe cleaners go through those metal stingers?

 

[bobpnm]

I have a 1930's vintage Kaywoodie bent billiard. I haven't tried with stem screwed attached. Stem unscrewed the small end of a tapered cleaner will go through the stinger and the entire cleaner can then be pulled through.

 

[ejames]

The older 4-hole stinger KW's that I have worked are threaded into the stem. Gotta be careful turning those stingers or you might strip the threads in the stem.The three hole stinger are knurled and are pressed into the stem,when it was warm most likely.As it cools the rubber forms itself around the knurls to lock the stinger in place. It is a good idea to use a little heat when trying to re-align both 3 and 4 hole stinger.

Most Grabows made from about the mid fifties (and some before) that have a screw in stem are Ajustomatics,even if not stamped as such. Usually a little heat applied to the tenon will free up a stuck Ajusto and allow it to turn. If working correctly an Ajustomatic stem can be turned clockwise 50 times and still unscrew or re-align.They should always be turned clockwise to re-align.

With the older screw in stems,regardless of make, I assume it is threaded and when I remove the stinger/tenon always turn it counter clock wise and pull gently. Once you get it out a little you can see whether or not it is threaded. A little heat should always be used IMO.

 

[pstlpkr]

Excellent Post Six.
I suppose that is where Dr. Grabow has the edge... with the Adjustomatic.

Pat. #2461905

1949, February 15th. David P. Lavietes gets patent for AJUSTOMATIC stem to shank threading system, Patent #2461905 (DRB)

Dr. Grabow Pipe History Timeline

::

 

[numbersix]

Thanks Lawrence.
And ejames - thanks for that excellent input - my meer was just fitted, not screwed into the stem. Sounds like a Kaywoodie fix should be even easier.