In Praise of Obsidian Oil

[Briar Lee]

For $12.50 a bottle I think every pipe smoker needs three bottles of Obsidian Oil, which will provide him with one to use, one to loose, and one to hide someplace he knows where he can find it.



The seller is a member here, and on his eBay site he also sells pipe cleaners and breath mints and hundred dollar Savinellis and Petersons and $30 Dr Grabows, a real asset for us pipe smokers.

To use Obsidian Oil I take the nasty oxidation from any black rubber stem using Everclear and paper towels or 4/0 steel wool if needed, and just one drop from the cap of the bottle will make the oldest stem look new in a few minutes. Then just buff off excess, and the stem looks new for months.

I think it helps oxidation from recurring.

The main ingredient is likely mineral oil but it works a lot better, and longer, than mineral oil.

And your friends won’t think you are a grouchy old miser that’s trying save the cost of a drive thru the Express Burger on the real deal Obsidian Oil.

 

[RustiePyles CPG]

I like obsidian oil, it's not a miracle product that will eliminate oxidation. But it does help to stave it off and minimize it if used on a clean oxidation free stem.

 

[yanoJL]

When I'm finished cleaning my stems, they look good. After applying a drop of obsidian oil, they look great. Shiny and like new. I can say with confidence that this is a product that will always have a place in my cleaning kit.

 

[captpat]

I like obsidian oil, it's not a miracle product that will eliminate oxidation. But it does help to stave it off and minimize it if used on a clean oxidation free stem.

Agree completely, it helps but it won't remove oxidation.

 

[Cloozoe]

Anyone know what's in this stuff and why it should work any better than mineral oil, olive oil, corn oil, sunflower seed oil, 30 wt, or any other oil? At $9,643/qt, there should be some advantage, but I can't imagine what it would be.

 

[Briar Lee]

Anyone know what's in this stuff and why it should work any better than mineral oil, olive oil, corn oil, sunflower seed oil, 30 wt, or any other oil? At $9,643/qt, there should be some advantage, but I can't imagine what it would be.

The first trade secret is that tiny little bottle.

Just one fingertip in the cap is all you need for one or two stems.

The second is that ashes make an excellent metal polish.

That doesn’t hurt sales of real metal polish.

The maker of Obsidian Oil discovered exactly the right amount of exactly the right additive to attack oxidation on hard rubber pipe stems.

The instructions say let it sit thirty minutes.

The little bottle alone is worth ten bucks, but the secret formula is priceless.

 

[Cloozoe]

The first trade secret is that tiny little bottle.

Just one fingertip in the cap is all you need for one or two stems.

The second is that ashes make an excellent metal polish.

That doesn’t hurt sales of real metal polish.

The maker of Obsidian Oil discovered exactly the right amount of exactly the right additive to attack oxidation on hard rubber pipe stems.

The instructions say let it sit thirty minutes.

The little bottle alone is worth ten bucks, but the secret formula is priceless.

I don't doubt the little bottle comprises the large bulk of the manufacturer's cost. Label second. Maybe, like Certs, it contains "a golden drop of Retsyn".

 

[Indygrap]

Can you use 91% isopropyl instead of Everclear? Not that I don’t need an excuse to buy EC, I just think I’d start making cocktails with it

 

[Briar Lee]

I don't doubt the little bottle comprises the large bulk of the manufacturer's cost. Label second. Maybe, like Certs, it contains "a golden drop of Retsyn".

I bought two bottles and I may die with the second unopened. One fingertip on the opened cap is more than enough.

That bottle has survived a lot of falls to a concrete floor. It’s a tough little bottle.

And there likely is a little something secret added to eat oxidation.

But while the poor folks use mineral oil to blacken their stems I am privileged to use —-Obsidian —- oil.

That name is also, worth the ten bucks.

Obsidian - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[hoipolloiglasgow]

I'm a fan of obsidian oil too.

 

[PaulTheScandinavian]

I'm a fan of obsidian oil too.

and so am I even If I have to pay almost a double price for it. due to shipping costs

 

[cossackjack]

Jojoba Oil
Far superior to Obsidian Oil for stems, as well as briar, meerschaum, & gourd calabash stummels.
It is an unsaturated liquid wax oil, similar to spermaceti wax (sperm whale oil).
Much less expensive & more versatile as a base oil for skin & hair emollients, essential oils, & essential oil-based insect repellents. It also works as a beard & mustache oil.

Here is a comprehensive review:
Jojoba Oil

 

[Pyrodoc]

While I certainly do not want to knock ‘Obsidian Oil,’ it is a frequently used product that keeps many vulcanite stems shiny!! What more could you want?
Of course, ‘Obsidian Oil’ is a proprietary recipe and I have no knowledge as to what it contains. I do know it is non-drying and probably contains petroleum distillates, that I prefer to avoid. So chemically what are we trying to prevent? So called, ‘oxidation’ in vulcanite is actually a permanent change involving irreversible cross-linking of both environmental sulfur compounds and that which is contained in the ebonite itself. It takes several elements for this degradation process to occur or accelerate: 1) UV light 2) Exposure to air 3) Moisture/Humidity 4) Heat 5) Time for the substrate reaction to occur. Not all of these factors can be controlled and ebonite cross-linking will occur within the substrate at a rate determined by the original sulfur content of the material. So, nothing is 100% effective, as these vulcanite stems are destined to their own destruction! Any concept of a product reversing or restoring this process is chemical farce… literally a pipe dream!! That yellow-green-brown surface patina can’t be reversed, only removed. The original electronic properties of this material were promising, but soon dashed by the discovery of ebonite’s instability over time. History helps us and it is sure to be popular again, someday soon.
All that said, a dry or stable sealant with UV blocking properties that contains anti-oxidants to slow the process would serve best from the chemistry bench! Non-drying oils collect environmental chemicals and dust. There are single substances out there that begin to address some of these issues at minimal cost. I have been working on a blended product for several years that is testing phenomenally, so when I have some prototype samples, I will share for your input! In the meantime, everything that glitters is not gold, and prolonging preservation is the goal. The rich history in the chemistry of ebonite/vucanite can guide us to better retardation of the inevitable fate of our beloved vulcanite stems!!

 

[Pyrodoc]

Jojoba Oil
Far superior to Obsidian Oil for stems, as well as briar, meerschaum, & gourd calabash stummels.
It is an unsaturated liquid wax oil, similar to spermaceti wax (sperm whale oil).
Much less expensive & more versatile as a base oil for skin & hair emollients, essential oils, & essential oil-based insect repellents. It also works as a beard & mustache oil.

Here is a comprehensive review:
Jojoba Oil

Unlike beeswax, which begins to discolor at 145°F, Jojoba oil can be heated to 370°F for 96 hours without exhibiting degradation in general composition and carbon chain length. So stable for use with working temps on exterior briar and vulcanite stems. It is also considered a drying oil with those advantages on wood treatment. Personally, I have no experience with using this on pipes, but it chemically it appears worthy of blending or direct application.

 

[OverMountain]

I just use a microfiber cloth dipped in mineral oil. A little dab’l do ya.

 

[Pyrodoc]

I just use a microfiber cloth dipped in mineral oil. A little dab’l do ya.

As many do!! I buy food grade mineral oil by the gallon. I always use microfiber cloths, also, for any pipe polish application!! MO is dirt cheap and I use it to protect knife blades and softer wood cutting boards. It comes no where near my pipes, especially vulcanite stems. It looks shiny on application, as it is non-drying. It has tested poorly over my years long tests on vulcanite and briar. It attracts dust, which turns to ‘crud’ over time on briar, actually greenish hues. While mineral oil offers moisture lock protection from humidity, sulfur in the air is actually more ready dissolved (soluble) in the MO than water!! Not good for vulcanite, actually accelerating the inevitable sulfur cross linking and degradation of our stems.

Chemistry can guide us to better choices to minimize ‘oxidation’ of ebonite, aka vulcanite. Our stems are slowly dying. I have nothing to sell, yet, but my background in chemistry suggests there are better options to retard sulfur cross-linking in ebonite. MO is not a good choice to save those stems as long as possible.

 

[OverMountain]

As many do!! I buy food grade mineral oil by the gallon. I always use microfiber cloths, also, for any pipe polish application!! MO is dirt cheap and I use it to protect knife blades and softer wood cutting boards. It comes no where near my pipes, especially vulcanite stems. It looks shiny on application, as it is non-drying. It has tested poorly over my years long tests on vulcanite and briar. It attracts dust, which turns to ‘crud’ over time on briar, actually greenish hues. While mineral oil offers moisture lock protection from humidity, sulfur in the air is actually more ready dissolved (soluble) in the MO than water!! Not good for vulcanite, actually accelerating the inevitable sulfur cross linking and degradation of our stems.

Chemistry can guide us to better choices to minimize ‘oxidation’ of ebonite, aka vulcanite. Our stems are slowly dying. I have nothing to sell, yet, but my background in chemistry suggests there are better options to retard sulfur cross-linking in ebonite. MO is not a good choice to save those stems as long as possible.

Pyrodoc, that is a great post. I’m assuming you might be a chemistry phd, or perhaps just a garden variety pyro that has done their homework.

If you develop an answer please let us know. It would have to be cheap, and readily available. If things get too bad, I guess you could also just replace a stem which I haven’t had to do yet.

 

[ShopPipesWizard]

As many do!! I buy food grade mineral oil by the gallon. I always use microfiber cloths, also, for any pipe polish application!! MO is dirt cheap and I use it to protect knife blades and softer wood cutting boards. It comes no where near my pipes, especially vulcanite stems. It looks shiny on application, as it is non-drying. It has tested poorly over my years long tests on vulcanite and briar. It attracts dust, which turns to ‘crud’ over time on briar, actually greenish hues. While mineral oil offers moisture lock protection from humidity, sulfur in the air is actually more ready dissolved (soluble) in the MO than water!! Not good for vulcanite, actually accelerating the inevitable sulfur cross linking and degradation of our stems.

Chemistry can guide us to better choices to minimize ‘oxidation’ of ebonite, aka vulcanite. Our stems are slowly dying. I have nothing to sell, yet, but my background in chemistry suggests there are better options to retard sulfur cross-linking in ebonite. MO is not a good choice to save those stems as long as possible.

I could be incorrect on this, but I swore I watched a video of Peterson Pipe factory and they coated the inside of the bowl with mineral oil.

 

[Pyrodoc]

Pyrodoc, that is a great post. I’m assuming you might be a chemistry phd, or perhaps just a garden variety pyro that has done their homework.

If you develop an answer please let us know. It would have to be cheap, and readily available. If things get too bad, I guess you could also just replace a stem which I haven’t had to do yet.

Thanks OverMountain! My bio is odd. By profession, I am a physician practicing in a surgical specialty. By trade, I restore pipes and have put decades in the display fireworks industry. Once upon a time, I held a blasters license as well. A friend mine who has carved hundreds of pipes is a PhD Chemist and we’re always working on something. My goal is to develop products that have a rational chemical basis, but more importantly, have ‘evidence based’ outcomes in actual use. In the days of the old patent medicine era, so many ‘cures’ were sold that contained alcohol, morphine and/or cocaine!! I don’t want to promote snake oil. If we’re successful, a cost effective/safe/chemistry-based/field tested/easy-to-use product is something worthwhile to offer. “Because that’s the way we’ve always done it,” has never sit well with me.

 

[OverMountain]

Thanks OverMountain! My bio is odd. By profession, I am a physician practicing in a surgical specialty. By trade, I restore pipes and have put decades in the display fireworks industry. Once upon a time, I held a blasters license as well. A friend mine who has carved hundreds of pipes is a PhD Chemist and we’re always working on something. My goal is to develop products that have a rational chemical basis, but more importantly, have ‘evidence based’ outcomes in actual use. In the days of the old patent medicine era, so many ‘cures’ were sold that contained alcohol, morphine and/or cocaine!! I don’t want to promote snake oil. If we’re successful, a cost effective/safe/chemistry-based/field tested/easy-to-use product is something worthwhile to offer. “Because that’s the way we’ve always done it,” has never sit well with me.

I truly wish you success! You have your mission, and certainly the science based approach to achieve the significance and effect desired in your product! Keep us posted.

Btw, haven’t met a doc that also can utilize a blasters license! Sounds like fun!