A few pipe restoration questions

[spyder71]

I am finding that cleaning up estates is a perfect hobby for my disabilities and I want to take it further and so I have a few questions. I just need quick answers to send me researching in the right direction. Although, this is probably a topic of interest to quite a few folks on here so If you want to get all long winded and technical, that's fine too
1. Is there a way to make my own fill material that will be reliable and take well to dye? I'm thinking Briar dust like I would make for a quick fill on base boards with saw dust and elmers glue, but I don't figure Elmers will quite do it.

2. What brand of dye do you prefer?

3. How long after sweetening and de-ghosting a pipe can it be put in to service again?

If this is all super secret pipe restorers guild info than forgive me and ignore this post...

 

[bootlegbonvivant]

1. I haven't tried making my own filler, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea. Maybe using super glue or other epoxy with the sawdust could be accomplished? I'm just not sure if the filler would take to the stain that way. I'll have to do some research myself to answer this, or come up with a decent idea.
2. I've been using Fiebing's Leather Dye. You can get it on Pipe Maker's Emporium. They work very well and just a little alcohol will take off the residuals before placing the final wax coatings.
3. Depends on the process you're going through. If you're using a salt/alcohol, or cotton ball/alcohol method for the lightly smoked pipes and let it sit for a day, then it could take anywhere from 1-4 hours for the alcohol to completely evaporate. If you're using a pipe retort, it's been kinda mixed so far. I've heard you can smoke immediately, to let the pipe set for 12-24 hours before smoking. Me, personally, I don't think it takes the alcohol long at all to evaporate and the pipe should be ready within an hour or two.

 

[ejames]

I've done a little experimenting on making filler from briar dust. I've tried several different types of glues and epoxies mixed with the sanding dust. They all come out black and will not accept a stain.There may be a commercial wood filler out there that might work. The only one I tried didn't.

 

[eaglerico]

1) elmers makes a wood filler from extra fine saw dust that you could probably stain first them apply and stain again.
2) Brands havn't been talked about on here as much as type. Uncle A and a few others on here recommend using leather dyes. In my limited experience, I just use olive oil.
3) I do the salt and alcohol treatment and i generally give it a day to rest. I feel the extra time ellows any swelling or extra moisture to work it's way out. I also find stems fit better after giving the extra time.

 

[spyder71]

Thank you for the great answers! I picked up the Fiebing's Leather Dye and the advice really helps. ALL my pipes have a fresh start as of today, and as a result I am spending some quality time with my Viking bowls