“FLITZ” Polish for Oxidized Pipe Stems

[Fralphog]

I had a few pipe stems that had developed oxidation over the years . After joining the forum, I read some threads on removing it and polishing the stems back to a luster.
I bought and used some OTC pipe polish that come in tiny tubes that really didn’t seem to remove much for the effort.
Then I read on the forum about using a flame to carefully burn it off while quickly following with a wet towel. @Chasing Embers posted a link to a site that explained the technique. This method did work.
Of course, it requires keen attention to detail to avoid applying excessive flame. The web site link went to rebornpipes.com. Besides the info on using a flame, where other “known” techniques for removing oxidation.
One of them caught my eye, FLITZ Polish. It works on metal, plastic and fiberglass. People using this product claimed it cleaned and polished stems and seemed to provide some protection to the onset of oxidation.
I picked up a bottle to give it a try.
I have a unique Boswell churchwarden I bought from J.M. Back in 2008. Over the years, it built up oxidation creating that classic dull brown huge on the team.

This morning I got an old towel and the FLITZ and went to work. I did use my Uber sharp pocket knife a couple of times around the bit to very, very lightly scrape off some of the stubborn stuff. The polish buffed those areas perfectly!
Here is before pictures:

 

[Fralphog]

Here are the after pictures. I spent 35 min and some healthy elbow grease. This is the results. No other product- chap stick, obsidian oil... used.

 

[WVOldFart]

Nice to know. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Fralphog]

Here’s an old KW. The stem was in decent shape; subtle oxidation. The metal band (I’m guessing aluminum) was dull and and some superficial surface “crust” here and there. In 15 minutes, I cleaned up the stem and polished the metal band,
This ‘Ol pipe hasn’t looked this good since I inherited it from Gandpa Mac.
Bonus, KW logo is integral to the stem and made of the same material. I used the polish over the logo with no color drift or smearing. Logo actually looks crisp and clean! Cleaned up the stinger to bright shine also.

 

[Ksigel]

Here’s an old KW. The stem was in decent shape; subtle oxidation. The metal band (I’m guessing aluminum) was dull and and some superficial surface “crust” here and there. In 15 minutes, I cleaned up the stem and polished the metal band,
This ‘Ol pipe hasn’t looked this good since I inherited it from Gandpa Mac.
Bonus, KW logo is integral to the stem and made of the same material. I used the polish over the logo with no color drift or smearing. Logo actually looks crisp and clean! Cleaned up the stinger to bright shine also.

View attachment 111192View attachment 111193

Here are the after pictures. I spent 35 min and some healthy elbow grease. This is the results. No other product- chap stick, obsidian oil... used.

View attachment 111185View attachment 111186

Thanks so much for this tip. I am working on really oxidized old Peterson stems. Soaked in Oxyclean then been standings 300 and 400 grit. Slow process so will try Flitz. Have used in other applications before. Good stuff. Fingers crossed.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Great job! After removing the oxidation with the flame and wet paper towel, I thumb buff mine with toothpaste to get a mirror shine.

 

[sablebrush52]

I had a few pipe stems that had developed oxidation over the years . After joining the forum, I read some threads on removing it and polishing the stems back to a luster.
I bought and used some OTC pipe polish that come in tiny tubes that really didn’t seem to remove much for the effort.
Then I read on the forum about using a flame to carefully burn it off while quickly following with a wet towel. @Chasing Embers posted a link to a site that explained the technique. This method did work.
Of course, it requires keen attention to detail to avoid applying excessive flame. The web site link went to rebornpipes.com. Besides the info on using a flame, where other “known” techniques for removing oxidation.
One of them caught my eye, FLITZ Polish. It works on metal, plastic and fiberglass. People using this product claimed it cleaned and polished stems and seemed to provide some protection to the onset of oxidation.
I picked up a bottle to give it a try.
I have a unique Boswell churchwarden I bought from J.M. Back in 2008. Over the years, it built up oxidation creating that classic dull brown huge on the team.

This morning I got an old towel and the FLITZ and went to work. I did use my Uber sharp pocket knife a couple of times around the bit to very, very lightly scrape off some of the stubborn stuff. The polish buffed those areas perfectly!
Here is before pictures:

View attachment 111181View attachment 111182

I use something similar, Simichrome.

 

[mikethompson]

Nice job on those stems!

I like the idea of not using micromesh as you want to remove the oxidation, not stem material.

 

[captpat]

I'd be interested in hearing how it (flitz treatment) holds up, most of the remedies I've tried don't last. Haven't tried the Bic and paper towel trick yet though.

 

[jpmcwjr]

To protect, a thin coating of mineral oil, Obsidian oil, or wax, and keeping it out of light usually works to make it last.

 

[woodsroad]

For significantly faded stems, I dip them in Feibing's black for a week or two. The rubber used in stems is dyed to begin with, and sometimes the dye fade is just too deep.

1. Degrease the stem with alcohol
2. Suspend the stem on a pipe cleaner (or similar) in the Feibing's bottle)
3. Remove, dry off and buff with your favorite polish (toothpast, Flitz, Simichrome....whatever)

 

[Fralphog]

I'd be interested in hearing how it (flitz treatment) holds up, most of the remedies I've tried don't last. Haven't tried the Bic and paper towel trick yet though.

Just as @jpmcwjr noted, once stems are cleaned, routine cleaning and maintenance is required. After every smoke, I wipe the stem off with a paper towel and then put some obdisian oil on with my finger.
+- 30 minutes later I buff it with a small micro fiber towel used only pipe stems.
This keeps them looking great.

 

[sablebrush52]

Just as @jpmcwjr noted, once stems are cleaned, routine cleaning and maintenance is required. After every smoke, I wipe the stem off with a paper towel and then put some obdisian oil on with my finger.
+- 30 minutes later I buff it with a small micro fiber towel used only pipe stems.
This keeps them looking great.

Don't use obsidian oil myself, but I do apply wax. Some kind of barrier between the vulcanite and oxygen is beneficial for reducing maintenance.

 

[Searock Fan]

Ever notice how Lucite stems never need polishing?

 

[mso489]

If you tolerate acrylic and lucite stems well, they do save a lot of grief. The are hard to the touch and on the teeth, and people with sensitive teeth and gums may not be able to use them at all. But for maintenance, and for appearance, they are hard to beat. Various of the up-market factory pipe brands and a number of the artisan carvers have turned to acrylic. I still like my Vulcanite stems, and buy them when I can, but I can't help but appreciate the convenience of acrylic.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Ever notice how Lucite stems never need polishing?

I've never had to polish one newly bought. Keep them clean and oiled after smoking and it'll never be an issue. Juma is another option for the softness of vulcanite without the maintenance.

 

[sablebrush52]

If you tolerate acrylic and lucite stems well, they do save a lot of grief. The are hard to the touch and on the teeth, and people with sensitive teeth and gums may not be able to use them at all. But for maintenance, and for appearance, they are hard to beat. Various of the up-market factory pipe brands and a number of the artisan carvers have turned to acrylic. I still like my Vulcanite stems, and buy them when I can, but I can't help but appreciate the convenience of acrylic.

Acrylic stem material comes in a variety of formulations, and the type George Dibos uses when he makes me a stem is very like Vulcanite in "give", and keeps it's luster.

 

[Fralphog]

Thanks so much for this tip. I am working on really oxidized old Peterson stems. Soaked in Oxyclean then been standings 300 and 400 grit. Slow process so will try Flitz. Have used in other applications before. Good stuff. Fingers crossed.

Have you tried it yet?

 

[mikethompson]

For significantly faded stems, I dip them in Feibing's black for a week or two. The rubber used in stems is dyed to begin with, and sometimes the dye fade is just too deep.

1. Degrease the stem with alcohol
2. Suspend the stem on a pipe cleaner (or similar) in the Feibing's bottle)
3. Remove, dry off and buff with your favorite polish (toothpast, Flitz, Simichrome....whatever)

never heard of the dye trick myself. I would imagine you would still have to get the oxidation off first otherwise you are just dying that as well right?

I'm also interested in trying this on a stem. Seems a little less harsh than micromesh pads.

 

[woodsroad]

never heard of the dye trick myself. I would imagine you would still have to get the oxidation off first otherwise you are just dying that as well right?

I'm also interested in trying this on a stem. Seems a little less harsh than micromesh pads.

View attachment 118439

Mike, A lot of what people think is oxidation is simply faded dyes used in the rubber. I’m not a chemist, so I can’t say how or if rubber oxidizes. But Flitz, Sumichrome, toothpast, etc are all abrasives that remove material, be it oxidized or just faded.