Lighting and its influence on tobacco flavor

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stflorian

Might Stick Around
Jan 16, 2015
86
12
Distance and duration play a vital role in properly lighting the pipe. However, my thoughts were directed at the idea presented showing somewhat of a conical burn. I believe through experience both as a pipe smoker, and firefighter that if the pipe is lighted in a such a way to try to minimize heat it creates a center burn which lead to more relights and scorched tobacco. The reason being that in a pipe there are two ways for the tobacco to ignite; direct contact and radiant heat. In order for radiant heat to allow adjacent tobacco to ignite the temperature must be greater than the combustion temp of the tobacco. Which is why during a center burn we have to use an angled tamper in order to push the unburned tobacco to the ember. And then need an increased temperature to get this previously scorched tobacco to burn more thoroughly. Where as if we completely light the top of the tobacco and allow a white ash to form we have created an ember that can use gravity to assist the direct contact and an insulator to the heat which keep the tobacco burning longer at a relatively consistent temperature. In my experiences, if we allow a complete white ash on the top of the tobacco it will burn uniformly straight down the bowl without a pronounced conical burn. As the tobacco turns to white ash it also allows enough of the heat to escape thus preventing a wet smoke.
I tried this last night with the stubborn mistress known as FVF. The first bowl lighting only enough to get it smoking. This bowl turned into a center burn, the edges never really took, the pipe needed several relights, and in turn burned hotter. The second bowl I completely lit the top and was able to smoke for a bit before allowing it to go out. I then dumped half a pipeful of fluffy white ash and found minimal indication of a conical burn (one half stand of tobacco was white while the rest was not).
I did this in an attempt to look at burn qualities not thinking of taste. But now I wonder if lighting more thoroughly in the beginning, which would be an initial temperature spike, but allows a uniform ash to form would allow for better flavor throughout the smoke VS lighting very lightly in hopes of keep the pipe cool and thus causing a center burn and not getting all of the tobacco to complete combustion. I hope my ramblings made sense.
What say you?

 
May 4, 2015
3,210
16
^ makes sense. Just not something I think about much any more. It's all muscle memory at this point.
My main point I was trying to make in my initial comment is I'm more ginger with Virginias and pretty carefree with others. I don't often experience the center burn problem, but when it happens, I don't really try to fight it. If I'm getting good flavor, I'm ok with it. Usually only happens with flakes for me, but since they burn so much longer anyway, I don't worry too much about it.
EDIT: You're never getting "complete combustion" anyway. The temperatures just aren't high enough. End of the day, light as cool as you can, smoke as cool as you can for best results - doesn't much matter how fluffy or white the ash is IMO.

 

stflorian

Might Stick Around
Jan 16, 2015
86
12
Tom, by "complete combustion" I mean the tobacco has burned to white ash, meaning there is no fuel left which will combust. I disagree about never getting complete combustion. It is absolutely possible and in fact I believe complete combustion will lead to a better smoke. Let me try to explain... Complete combustion means that there is no longer any fuel which can be used for combustion. The temperature does not need to be one degree higher than the ignition temp in order to achieve complete combustion, you simply need the correct fuel to oxygen ratio. Think of a campfire or charcoal. When it has burned all the wood completely there is nothing but a fine white ash. However it takes time to get this to happen. If you simply graze the flame over the log it will only char. It takes time for the flame to take. The fuel to oxygen ration (density of the combustible material and how much oxygen readily availbale) combined with the ignition temp dictate how fast or slow this will happen. A high temp (lighter or match) briefly grazing the tobacco will only scorch and char the outside rendering it difficult to restart combustion. However, if the high temp is held on a site for longer until the flame catches it will burn at a slower rate taking its time consuming the fuel available. Too much air = high temp and fast moving combustion which never fully consumes fuel; like a burning match. Or think bigger, 2x4's briefly in a campfire or structure fire. However, when the fuel to oxygen ratio is correct the flame will only smolder and stay at or just above the temp necessary for combustion (with correct cadence), but the high temp is needed to initially begin combustion.
How does this translate to pipe smoking? White ash means your tobacco is burning slower and more completely than hard black bits of tobacco. White ash (complete combustion) = correct packing, and with proper cadence will stay cool. Charred black bits of tobacco (incomplete combustion) = too loosely packed or an incomplete char/true light. The entire top of the tobacco should have a white ash or it will not burn easily and will require more relights. You have to get the fire started before you can cool it down to smolder. If you light too lightly and do not get the entire top of the tobacco, you will then have a center burn due to flow path of the fire (in this case ember and direct contact; see my above post).
I never thought my fire experience and education would translate to pipe smoking but it has. Somehow in my crazy brain it all makes much more sense now, at least the combustion aspect.

 
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stflorian

Might Stick Around
Jan 16, 2015
86
12
The distance and temp of lighting still play a part. JM touched on it when he said even torch lighters can be used in a pinch. The hotter your lighting utensil burns the farther from the tobacco it should be when lighting in order to get the lowest temp to ignite. Even though the lowest temp needed to ignite is ideal, complete lighting of the tobacco is necessary. It is easier to back off and let the pipe cool than speed up in order to keep it at ignition temp.

 
May 4, 2015
3,210
16
Glad it all makes sense to you. That's all that really matters in the end.
I simply don't take it as a given that you somehow haven't reached smoking nirvana if you don't have "complete combustion" or white ash.
I've achieved some of the best flavors by center burn, partially lit chambers, poorly packed pipes that need relit often, etc and so on. The way the tobacco looks IN the chamber is one of the last things I'm concerned about.
Unburnt or unevenly combusted tobacco does not a failure make. I would hate to see a new smoker read your conclusions and determine that he's somehow not done it the right way if he is dumping anything but fluffy white ash, taste be damned.

 

stflorian

Might Stick Around
Jan 16, 2015
86
12
Tom, you have missed the point of my subsequent posts. My question was directed at is there a relation between complete combustion (completely lighting the top of the tobacco) or incomplete combustion (not completely lighting the top of the tobacco/center burn) and taste and you answered that completely. You said you something like "you put the spurs to it until its lit, except virginias because they tend to bite." That to me says you light the top of the tobacco completely. So thank you for answering my question. The last two posts which we directed to each other I wrote from a combustion only standpoint, it had nothing to do with flavor. Perhaps I wasn't as direct as I needed to be in stating those two posts were talking solely about combustion.

 

jpmcwjr

Moderator
Staff member
May 12, 2015
25,140
28,140
Carmel Valley, CA
I'll start paying attention to how much of the tobacco surface gets ignited. I don't smoke pot shapes, so my surface area isn't huge. But IIRC, sometimes I am lighting just the center.

 

hobie1dog

Lifer
Jun 5, 2010
6,888
235
68
Cornelius, NC
All of you are grossly over analyzing yourselves into a state of paralysis. Anyone who does not use this specific lighting method is doing it wrong. And remember it's called a "burner".... :nana:

so watch this video before you post your rebuttals. This guy is obviously the Grand Master :puffy:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OMtHOAiO8CI
Just messing with you.

 

jpmcwjr

Moderator
Staff member
May 12, 2015
25,140
28,140
Carmel Valley, CA
Heh, guilty as charged! But that video is about 5 minutes, two over my limit.
I find that soft back lighting makes me look better, so it follows that a bowl tastes better as I look better. (It's better to look marvelous than to feel marvelous.....)

 

warren

Lifer
Sep 13, 2013
11,898
16,852
Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK
Sorry! Can't stop myself.
My preference is incandescent over fluorescent when smoking any blend. Sunlight makes everything smoke better. Well, except War Horse. I like that in the rain as I perceive the old horse to be a "mudder." So, a subtly overcast lighting with a bit of rain makes those blends really shine.

 

unkleyoda

Lifer
Aug 22, 2016
1,126
69
Your mom\\\'s house
Yes it affects the taste, VA's are affected more than English mixes, but I light them all carefully and lightly. I found it hard to do when I started smoking pipe a year ago, but now it seems second nature.

 
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