Repairing bubbled paint

[Andriko]

Two of my favourite pipes have 'bubbled' and the paint has cracked from the heat (I think I just smoke hot, no matter how slow and soft I sip, or whatever way I pack, the bottom of the bowl gets hot). The pipes themselves are fine, so this is really just an aesthetic issue, but can anyone recommend a way to fix them? Presumabley the best thing to do is sand off the bubble and repaint, but what kind of paint do pipes (these are Vauen) use, and how best to blend it into the rest of the finish?

Thanks for the advice!

Hopefully the pictures show what I am talking about.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Heat with a hairdryer or heat gun and buff with a tshirt.

 

[MilesDavis]

That's tough! I feel for you! I don't think I've encountered a painted pipe before--certainly not one where the paint blistered. I hope you can repair them without getting drastic. If not, it comes down to how much time/effort/money you want to invest. I routinely redo pipes and have--over time--amassed the materials needed. (Plus, I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands.) I guess I would sand the pipes down to bare briar, (first using whatever chemical that might cut through the paint?) Then bring out the sandpaper! I routinely sand stummels down to bare briar starting with 220-grit to cut through wax, stain and damaged material, and once the briar is clean move gradually up from there until I'm sanding at 1500 with alcohol (Everclear). Then, for your pipes, I would apply black leather dye, buff them out and apply wax., etc. This technique might allow some grain to show through. Either way you look at it, I think you might be looking at something...drastic.

 

[Hillcrest]

Try @ChasingEmbers suggestion first ... its a black varnish. If it continues then you will have to sand off all and wax with Paragon. But go the easy route first. I had the same problem with a Barontini. The briar had some very fine grain patches that leaked heat like an open window. I sanded and am awaiting delivery of the Paragon Wax to do several wax coats. Also pack lighter and sip slowly. You could also make your own pipe mud and recoat the bowl for extra lining. Just some ideas.

 

[Andriko]

Thanks for the advice guys. Is it a black vanish such as you'd use for wood and so on (like a black ebony wood stain)?

I don't think sanding or anything will be needed, as the pipes are fine otherwise. It might just be the nature of the finish.

And I am not sure how much lighter I can pack, or slower I can sip!

Heat with a hairdryer or heat gun and buff with a tshirt.

Would this be done once the paint is applied?

 

[ThermionicScott]

Maybe your pipes just want to "breathe" and they're rejecting being finished?

 

[Andriko]

Maybe your pipes just want to "breathe" and they're rejecting being finished?

That's a very romantic way of putting it, and I will have to ask them if this is in fact what they wish to tell me.

 

[ThermionicScott]

That's a very romantic way of putting it, and I will have to ask them if this is in fact what they wish to tell me.

I have a bad habit of anthropomorphizing objects. They probably hate that.

 

[Andriko]

I have a bad habit of anthropomorphizing objects. They probably hate that.

I have a strong belief that physical objects are deeply malicious and not to be trusted. Infuriate them at your peril.

 

[Chasing Embers]

Would this be done once the paint is applied?

If it's lacquer, it will soften enough to spread.

 

[UB 40]

I see no chance to get the lacquer back to settle on the wood with heat and pressure. The adhesion to the wood is done while the lacquer was fluid, and still lacquer remains elastic over years as it moves with the wood getting hot and cooling down. Over the years maybe decades it gets more rigid it will loose grip on the surface of the briar and of course crack some time. No way back.

I would either leave it as the old pipe is, an old lady with some wrinkles. Or sand the pipe down to the bare wood with a 400 grid and up. If it shows some nice grain you can leave it like that. It will darken over a few months to a nice natural finish.

Otherwise you can use some spirit- stain Fiebings or whatever (i did with tea or coffee as well) to darken it maybe to hues that are similar to the original. Buff it, to shine again. If you can get a buffing wheel fixed to your drill try to apply some carnauba wax to really make it shine.

If you’re looking for more inspiration try that guy About reborn pipes - https://rebornpipes.com/about/

 

[Andriko]

Sanding things down and going nuclear seems like the most macho over reaction for a small chip in the paintwork I can imagine. I think I will buy some lacquer and cover the spot up and leave it at that!

 

[MilesDavis]

If you lived anywhere close, I'd say bring it on over to my shop and we could work on it together, but seeing as how you're across the pond...

 

[Andriko]

Maybe me and my pipe should take a holiday, and bag some of that US tobacco we don't get over here!

 

[MilesDavis]

You would find yourself welcome in little McLean, Illinois, USA...but maybe it would be slightly cheaper to buy a new pipe?

 

[Andriko]

Maybe, but it seems McLean is on the old Route 66. Keep your eye out for a mad Greek Cypriot dressed up as an Englishman flying by on a Harley pretending the 20th Century never ended.