Removing Oxidation From a Stem

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

Quick question to all you fine people. Has anyone used the Briarville Oxidation remover and if so does it work better than oxyclean? I normally soak my stems in Oxyclean overnight, then magic eraser and steel wool them for really stubborn oxidation, and if all else fails micromesh pads.

 

[newbroom]

I haven't brought in any new estate pipes lately, but when I did, I used all sorts of methods to restore their stems. The methods you describe are all useful and productive.
What I do as general maintenance is scrub 'em down with bartender's friend and a sotchbrite pad and rinse.

 

[craig61a]

Has anyone used the Briarville Oxidation remover and if so does it work better than oxyclean?

Probably not…

 

[craig61a]

 

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

Thats howni normally do mien, but have found a good oxyclean soak, and a good scrubbing with a magic eraser or very fine steel wool. Then they polish up nicely with some tripoli. I was hoping Briavilles stuff was as awesome as they say.

 

[kcghost]

Nothing beats a George Dibos video on the problem if you are looking for the best way to do something.

 

[captpat]

I've tried the Briarville product, it's nothing special

 

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

I've tried the Briarville product, it's nothing special

Thanks for confirming my suspicions

 

[mingc]

Quick question to all you fine people. Has anyone used the Briarville Oxidation remover and if so does it work better than oxyclean? I normally soak my stems in Oxyclean overnight, then magic eraser and steel wool them for really stubborn oxidation, and if all else fails micromesh pads.

I go straight to the micro-mesh. I think it's unnecessary to first use oxyclean, magic eraser, steel wool or the like. If the oxidation is bad, I start with rougher grits. If it's light, I start with finer grits. I try to remove the minimum needed to expose fresh rubber and to not remove clean rubber.

 

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

I go straight to the micro-mesh. I think it's unnecessary to first use oxyclean, magic eraser, steel wool or the like. If the oxidation is bad, I start with rougher grits. If it's light, I start with finer grits. I try to remove the minimum needed to expose fresh rubber and to not remove clean rubber.

That's how I normally do it but I'm hoping to find an easier way. The oxyclean and steel wool works pretty good on light oxidation. For extreme cases I go straight to the micromesh pads

 

[mingc]

That's how I normally do it but I'm hoping to find an easier way. The oxyclean and steel wool works pretty good on light oxidation. For extreme cases I go straight to the micromesh pads

I suspect and fear that there's simply no substitute for elbow grease! In the end, it's all about removing the oxidation physically.

 

[Sobrbiker]

I’m gonna get some better sandpaper and do it George’s way from the start, but the part two video will still be micromesh and elbow grease

 

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

I suspect and fear that there's simply no substitute for elbow grease! In the end, it's all about removing the oxidation physically.

There's always elbow grease involved, even with the oxyclean. I wish I didn't love Vulcanite stems so much as they are a pain to restore.

 

[Sobrbiker]

There's always elbow grease involved, even with the oxyclean. I wish I didn't love Vulcanite stems so much as they are a pain to restore.

Amen to that. I really don’t like acrylic (rather, my teeth don’t).
I did oxyclean once, and don’t like how it indiscriminately eats into the vulcanite, especially old pipes. Then there’s the whole logo issue.
I sand now, but George’s video points out flaws in my methods that will soon be corrected. Micromesh works, but are too fine to remove heavy oxidation (without a trip to ortho for elbow injections), and too soft for control.

 

[Sig]

I go straight to the micro-mesh. I think it's unnecessary to first use oxyclean, magic eraser, steel wool or the like. If the oxidation is bad, I start with rougher grits. If it's light, I start with finer grits. I try to remove the minimum needed to expose fresh rubber and to not remove clean rubber.

Like the Oxy Clean just because it also cleans the inside of the stem like brand new. After the stem is soaked, sanded and polished, its like new.
The Oxy and a 22 caliber Nylon bore brush removes 100% of the gunk and smell with one or two passes.
Also I believe the Oxy makes it easier to sand the rubber after the soak....at least it is for me.

 

[georged]

Quick question to all you fine people. Has anyone used the Briarville Oxidation remover and if so does it work better than oxyclean? I normally soak my stems in Oxyclean overnight, then magic eraser and steel wool them for really stubborn oxidation, and if all else fails micromesh pads.

Discolored / "green" vulcanite is caused by a chemical reaction. Usually called "oxidation" or "rust" by the general public, and known as "redox" by the science types.

The chemical reaction alters the material at an atomic level and cannot be reversed. (Theoretically, yes, in a laser-equipped multi-million-dollar laboratory, one molecule at a time, the same way lead can now be turned into gold, but nothing remotely practical under real-world conditions, never mind a pipe workshop).

So: The only way oxidized ebonite can be returned to its original color is to physically remove the discolored surface layer by scraping, sanding, or chemical means until unoxidized material is exposed.

And while chemical dissolution works, it is wasted effort if a smooth finish is desired because it leaves behind a pebbled, textured surface that must be scraped or sanded back to level anyway. (Vulcanite is like super-tiny-bead black styrofoam... dissolve away a finished surface, and what's underneath is rough.)

The end.

There are no secret methods or secret chemicals that will simply "make it black" again while leaving it shiny & smooth. A fact that is endlessly disregarded/ignored by the PipeWorld's patent medicine salesmen.


PS --- You definitely CAN "paint" it black again with ink or stain or dye, a method that works fine on objects like old radio cabinets or picture frames, but if stain is applied to pens, telephones, or pipe stems---objects subject to handling wear---all you get is a mess.

 

[Revnatorade C.P.G.]

Discolored / "green" vulcanite is caused by a chemical reaction. Usually called "oxidation" or "rust" by the general public, and known as "redox" by the science types.

The chemical reaction alters the material at an atomic level and cannot be reversed. (Theoretically, yes, in a laser-equipped multi-million-dollar laboratory, one molecule at a time, the same way lead can now be turned into gold, but nothing remotely practical under real-world conditions, never mind a pipe workshop).

So: The only way oxidized ebonite can be returned to its original color is to physically remove the discolored surface layer by scraping, sanding, or chemical means until unoxidized material is exposed.

And while chemical dissolution works, it is wasted effort if a smooth finish is desired because it leaves behind a pebbled, textured surface that must be scraped or sanded back to level anyway. (Vulcanite is like super-tiny-bead black styrofoam... dissolve away a finished surface, and what's underneath is rough.)

The end.

There are no secret methods or secret chemicals that will simply "make it black" again while leaving it shiny & smooth. A fact that is endlessly disregarded/ignored by the PipeWorld's patent medicine salesmen.


PS --- You definitely CAN "paint" it black again with ink or stain or dye, a method that works fine on objects like old radio cabinets or picture frames, but if stain is applied to pens, telephones, or pipe stems---objects subject to handling wear---all you get is a mess.

I would never dream of painting or staining as in the end it would end up in my mouth.

 

[sablebrush52]

Discolored / "green" vulcanite is caused by a chemical reaction. Usually called "oxidation" or "rust" by the general public, and known as "redox" by the science types.

The chemical reaction alters the material at an atomic level and cannot be reversed. (Theoretically, yes, in a laser-equipped multi-million-dollar laboratory, one molecule at a time, the same way lead can now be turned into gold, but nothing remotely practical under real-world conditions, never mind a pipe workshop).

So: The only way oxidized ebonite can be returned to its original color is to physically remove the discolored surface layer by scraping, sanding, or chemical means until unoxidized material is exposed.

And while chemical dissolution works, it is wasted effort if a smooth finish is desired because it leaves behind a pebbled, textured surface that must be scraped or sanded back to level anyway. (Vulcanite is like super-tiny-bead black styrofoam... dissolve away a finished surface, and what's underneath is rough.)

The end.

There are no secret methods or secret chemicals that will simply "make it black" again while leaving it shiny & smooth. A fact that is endlessly disregarded/ignored by the PipeWorld's patent medicine salesmen.


PS --- You definitely CAN "paint" it black again with ink or stain or dye, a method that works fine on objects like old radio cabinets or picture frames, but if stain is applied to pens, telephones, or pipe stems---objects subject to handling wear---all you get is a mess.

You sure know how to rain on con artist's parades.

 

[sablebrush52]

When it comes to removing oxidation, assuming that the level of oxidation isn't so advanced as to make it a waste of time, I use Micromesh pads. I don't own a buffer, and while the pads take longer, when used properly they offer an excellent alternative, and may even provide a better result.

 

[bullet08]

What's wrong with green vulcanite? I think they are fashionable.