Question about hand-buffing and restaining

[milk]

There are so many Rebornpipes pages on this that I’m not sure exactly which to look at. I might bid on this old patent Stanwell. My question is, if you buff away the charring, can you easily match the stain? I have a lot sandpaper grades and different wood stains and stuff but not much experience. I’m not going to get this if I have to take the stain off the whole pipe. I was just thinking of buffing off the charring. Any advice? Thanks

 

[didimauw]

I would think the Feibings light brown leather dye might be close. If we had more pictures it would help. Otherwise the bowl won't be hard to clean up.

 

[OzPiper]

If I get an estate pipe with "lava", I use the finest grit sand paper and wet sand very, very lightly and gently. Just enough to remove the char, and not any wood.
Finish up with wet MicroMesh pads (coarsest grit)

Use touch up pens designed for wooden furniture, if needed.
They come in various shades of brown - light brown, dark brown, red brown, etc.

Simple to use and cheap.

@Chasing Embers gets fantastic results using kitchen paper towels to clean his rims.

I wouldn't spend too much time stressing over that issue as it will char again despite your best efforts.

If you really don't like charred rims, buy only black sandblasts with sandblasted rims.

 

[milk]

If I get an estate pipe with "lava", I use the finest grit sand paper and wet sand very, very lightly and gently. Just enough to remove the char, and not any wood.
Finish up with wet MicroMesh pads (coarsest grit)

Use touch up pens designed for wooden furniture, if needed.
They come in various shades of brown - light brown, dark brown, red brown, etc.

Simple to use and cheap.

@Chasing Embers gets fantastic results using kitchen paper towels to clean his rims.

I wouldn't spend too much time stressing over that issue as it will char again despite your best efforts.

If you really don't like charred rims, buy only black sandblasts with sandblasted rims.

Thanks. Some of these tips are new to me. Actually, I really appreciate these little things. I gathered and tried various things on other pipes (based on tips from Reborn pipes) but I’ve only a few hours of experience
I know there are tons of web pages and videos but that’s its own problem: there are so many places to look. I have those pens. I used them on a pipe where it didn’t matter so much if it matched the rest of the pipe. It was fine but I wonder here if I could have a problem matching a section with the whole? I will follow what people are saying first about trying to remove charring without taking off the stain. That’s best. I think people who are new to this like me make mistakes early on. But I don’t want to mess up a patent Stanwell. I’ve been wanting this shape.

 

[Chasing Embers]

That looks a bit more like carbon buildup than charring. If so, a damp paper towel can take that off. Without need of sanding or restaining.

 

[milk]

That looks a bit more like carbon buildup than charring. If so, a damp paper towel can take that off. Without need of sanding or restaining.

View attachment 186391

Nice! A much more benign diagnosis!

 

[Chasing Embers]

Nice! A much more benign diagnosis!

Yeah, sometimes they look a lot worse than they actually are.

 

[anotherbob]

That looks a bit more like carbon buildup than charring. If so, a damp paper towel can take that off. Without need of sanding or restaining.

View attachment 186391

I can confirm this does work really well, can take time but you'll be able to see the progress on the paper towel. Have a pipe that had 20 some years of gunk on the rim and it looks brand new now with just water and paper towels.
Remember always start with the least invasive methods and move up. Just wanted to confirm that should probably work on that pipe.

 

[milk]

I can confirm this does work really well, can take time but you'll be able to see the progress on the paper towel. Have a pipe that had 20 some years of gunk on the rim and it looks brand new now with just water and paper towels.
Remember always start with the least invasive methods and move up. Just wanted to confirm that should probably work on that pipe.

Thanks and thanks to the other posters. Let’s see how much aim willing to bid compared to others. I may or may not go forward. Sometimes people are scared away from this kind of cosmetic wear but it can be an opportunity to score a nice pipe at a lower price. On the other hand, others might just be thinking the same thing. Let’s see what it comes down to. I won a Stanwell like this for about 50$ recently, it was in better shape to start even.

 

[OzPiper]

Thanks. Some of these tips are new to me. Actually, I really appreciate these little things. I gathered and tried various things on other pipes (based on tips from Reborn pipes) but I’ve only a few hours of experience
I know there are tons of web pages and videos but that’s its own problem: there are so many places to look. I have those pens. I used them on a pipe where it didn’t matter so much if it matched the rest of the pipe. It was fine but I wonder here if I could have a problem matching a section with the whole? I will follow what people are saying first about trying to remove charring without taking off the stain. That’s best. I think people who are new to this like me make mistakes early on. But I don’t want to mess up a patent Stanwell. I’ve been wanting this shape.

I too read and re-read Steve's hints on Rebornpipes.
I bought a few old tatty pipes and practiced on those.
I know my limits - anything really good, I'll let a professional deal with it.

Keep at it. It'll become second nature after a few pipes.

 

[milk]

I too read and re-read Steve's hints on Rebornpipes.
I bought a few old tatty pipes and practiced on those.
I know my limits - anything really good, I'll let a professional deal with it.

Keep at it. It'll become second nature after a few pipes.

Thanks that was my thinking too. I think I did OK on this Kaywoodie, following Steve’s hints. I have no real tools. I used paper and the pens but I’d be afraid to try it on something else maybe. I might have even gone too far? Or not far enough?

 

[Grangerous]

A bit of saliva on you finger, applied to the rim followed by vigorous rubbing on any fabric worn, denim to flannel removes it.

The start of that sounded dirty. But it’s a good way to clean your pipe. Wait. That sounded dirty too.

 

[ssjones]

Yep, always start with the least intrusive method or material.
To be clear, on the question you asked, you cannot "buff away" charring.

My question is, if you buff away the charring,

A number of the Reborn Pipes articles are mine, written under the screenname "Upshall Fan". (and Al Jones). You will see on my pipes with what I call "bowl top buildup" - I typically use a worn piece of scotchbrite, then high grade paper if that doesn't work.

For true "scorching" you likely need more aggresive paper and even bowl topping. That is always a last resort for me.

Once done, often wax on a buffing wheel will restore the finish and no-restain is needed. I do have various stains if they need touched up (sometimes just wiped on the bowl with a paper towel, then buffed to the original finish).

That Stanwell looks like a good candidate - keep us posted if you get and restore it!

 

[milk]

Yep, always start with the least intrusive method or material.
To be clear, on the question you asked, you cannot "buff away" charring.


A number of the Reborn Pipes articles are mine, written under the screenname "Upshall Fan". (and Al Jones). You will see on my pipes with what I call "bowl top buildup" - I typically use a worn piece of scotchbrite, then high grade paper if that doesn't work.

For true "scorching" you likely need more aggresive paper and even bowl topping. That is always a last resort for me.

Once done, often wax on a buffing wheel will restore the finish and no-restain is needed. I do have various stains if they need touched up (sometimes just wiped on the bowl with a paper towel, then buffed to the original finish).

That Stanwell looks like a good candidate - keep us posted if you get and restore it!

Thanks for the reply and for all the articles on the website. I appreciate the resource. It adds so much enjoyment to my life.

 

[ssjones]

Thanks for the reply and for all the articles on the website. I appreciate the resource. It adds so much enjoyment to my life.

I hope people find them helpful. I think I'm over 200 submissions, starting about 10 years ago. Steve was my restoration mentor on the old SmokersForums.UK forum, on their repair page. Then, he started Reborn Pipes and invited me to co-author. Work has reduced my contributions significantly in the past two years, but I have a few candidates on my work bench, for after the holiday

 

[Chasing Embers]

Sometimes people are scared away from this kind of cosmetic wear but it can be an opportunity to score a nice pipe at a lower price.

Yep

Cleaning up a $30 Estate Savinelli :: Pipe Repair and Maintenance

Started with : Ended with :

pipesmagazine.com

 

[Chasing Embers]

@milk

I just noticed something in the OP. It may just be the quality of the photos, but the stem on that Stanwell doesn't look original.

 

[milk]

@milk

I just noticed something in the OP. It may just be the quality of the photos, but the stem on that Stanwell doesn't look original.

Wow. Now you’ve got me thinking. I just thought it was oxidized and upside down. But now that I look, I think you’re right. Thanks for noticing.I’m not going to bid in that case.

 

[OzPiper]

Thanks that was my thinking too. I think I did OK on this Kaywoodie, following Steve’s hints. I have no real tools. I used paper and the pens but I’d be afraid to try it on something else maybe. I might have even gone too far? Or not far enough?

You did well with this one.
I'd be happy with that job, if that was mine.

 

[milk]

You did well with this one.
I'd be happy with that job, if that was mine.

Thanks for saying so!!