My visit to Castellana's tobacco shop in Florence

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tslex

Lifer
Jun 23, 2011
1,482
15
Alright gentlemen, sorry this has taken me so long to post. We got back from Italy to find my practice more or less on fire, with trips to NYC and LA since our return. But I wanted to share this experience with all of you and suggest in strongest terms that if you ever find yourself in Florence, you want to be sure to visit Castellana Pipe Shop.

Castellana
The shop is about a block away from the famous Duomo – and the surrounding area is filled with cafes, restaurants and other nifty shops – so you’ll want to visit the are anyway. (We stayed at the Logiatto dei Servitti, which is just down the street and around the corner from the Academia, which houses the David. I cannot say enough about this wonderful, historic hotel and the service there.)
HOTEL
Your first impression of Giovanni’s shop is likely to be underwhelming. Like many Italian tobacco shops, cigarettes, cigars and odds and ends seem to predominate. There might be two or three trays of pipes out on display. But once Giovanni knows you are a pipe guy, he starts disappearing back into the bowels of the shop and emerging time and again with tray after tray of simply beautiful stock. He is extremely knowledgeable and will work with you to find what you want at a price you you want to pay. (It would be VERY easy to come away much poorer than when you entered.)
Giovanni has access to some very special stock and he showed me some Castello pipes I’d never seen before. But when I told him I wanted something very special and very Italian, his face lit up and he went back into the dark again, re-appearing with a tray of Rinaldo Brothers pipes.
Rinaldo Pipes
I hadn’t heard of this mark, but Giovanni educated me about the two brothers and their work. Rather than buy yet another bent bulldog or other traditional pipe (What can I say? I’m old fashioned.) I decided to buy what was, for me at least, something very unusual. The Rinaldo pictured below is about a Group 4 size and a total break with my usual pipe buying habits. I managed to get back from overseas with a vile head cold. (Thanks guy on the train from Naples to Rome who coughed the whole damned way and never covered his mouth.) So it was two weeks before I was ready to break this pipe in. All I can say is “wow.” Besides being lovely, and a treasured reminder of a great trip, this may be the best smoking pipe out of the box that I’ve ever had.
The real highlight though? Giovanni himself. Turned out we had an acquaintance in common – another pipe-smoking Miami lawyer – and between that, the story of the shop, interjections from the steady stream of locals who stopped in and Giovanni’s friendly charm, my visit to the shop lasted nearly an hour.
If you find yourself in Florence, be sure to stop in. You won’t leave empty handed or unhappy.
Gio%201_zpsb46prkwm.jpg

Rinaldo%201_zps965nhkvy.jpg

Rinaldo%202_zpsqow4qpgd.jpg


 

tschiraldi

Lifer
Dec 14, 2015
1,813
3,555
55
Ohio
Great story, and well told! I am hoping to get to Italy in the next few years. This will certainly be on my list of "must see" stops! Thanks for sharing!
Tim

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,459
That's one gorgeous pipe, the bright stain, elegant finish, and dashing white stem. It's difficult to get a white stem to look entirely good, but this one does. The shop looks like the essence of authentic.

 

tslex

Lifer
Jun 23, 2011
1,482
15
Thanks for the kind words. I hope they'll bring Gio some business and folks here the wonderful experience of visiting him.

 
Oct 7, 2016
2,451
5,196
As is true of his shop, as the OP notes, only a small percentage of his Castello's are shown on line. If you are looking for a particular shape/finish Castello, it would be worthwhile to send him an email.

 

pappymac

Lifer
Feb 26, 2015
3,303
4,358
Rinaldo's are great Italian pipes and are worth the money I see them advertised for in the states. You shouldn't have any problems breaking it in but you may have trouble not reaching for it every day.

 

lohengrin

Lifer
Jun 16, 2015
1,198
2
Nice choice, it's a really fine pipe.

I confirm Mr. Giovanni is a very expert and kind person.

I am glad you enjoyed your stay in my town.

I just want to correct the way you wrote the name of the hotel so that if some other of the forum is interested can look for it without uncertainty:

Loggiato dei Serviti, Piazza SS. Annunziata 3, Firenze.

 

tslex

Lifer
Jun 23, 2011
1,482
15
Well, thanks for the correction. Although anyone looking for the hotel seems likely to have simply clicked on the link I provided.
:)

 

fitzy

Lifer
Nov 13, 2012
2,937
27
NY
Great story and fantastic pipe.
If I ever make it to Firenze I will be sure to stop in.

 

lohengrin

Lifer
Jun 16, 2015
1,198
2
Sorry tslex, I didn't realize you posted the link , otherwise I would have not written that correction.

 

tslex

Lifer
Jun 23, 2011
1,482
15
No worries lohengrin. Anything that gets that hotel more attention is fine with me. Simply a wonderful place with a standout staff.
In that vein, here's a link to my review of the place. (And it's a two minute walk to Castellano's!): My review

 

jravenwood

Can't Leave
Apr 23, 2017
428
77
That pipe is a beauty, I doubt if Ill ever make it to Italy, but one can dream...Hope you picked up some unique tobaccos as well

 
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