How to Tighten Up Tenon?
- Thread starter Jerry144
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Ropp Cherry wood pipes typically have cork lining the mortise. As cork ages it tends to break apart and becomes less resilient.
Cutting a piece of musical cork or golden cork as it is sometimes called to replace the old one after removing it is the best approach. I use 3/64” cork and rubber cement.
Cutting a piece of musical cork or golden cork as it is sometimes called to replace the old one after removing it is the best approach. I use 3/64” cork and rubber cement.
You can keep them pliant with lanolin.
No Ropp Cherrywood I have ever seen is any different than a normal Briar mortise/tenon other than one has a different type of wood. Some of the ways to correct a Briar tenon mortise issue is to just heat the tenon and let it try to go back to its original shape, get a tenon enlarge kit or the like, beeswax, nail polish, heating and pressing down on the tenon, etc. Double check to make sure the method you choose has the least amount of unnatural change (just my opinion).
Or Vaseline... just in case you don’t happen to have any Lanolin handy. I do, as I use it 50/50 with Vaseline to make a case forming lubricant to form cartridge cases for old black powder cartridge rifles... ?
Well the several I own must have come from an alternate universe...
And heating the tenon and pushing down on the end just flares the end of the tenon. It isn’t a fix, and just creates more problems down the road.
Heating alone without pressing allows vulcanite to spring back to its original size though.
Perhaps the cork is a part of the mortise from good gluing and years of use? Never noticed a cork so guess I have been lucky that is was intact.
From my original post - "Some of the ways to correct a Briar tenon mortise issue is to just heat the tenon and let it try to go back to its original shape"
It appears I have over stepped my bounds again and stepped on some clique toes. My apologies.
A number of pipes that use a cork liner in the mortise to secure the stem.
Top to bottom: 1900 Delacour, Ropp cherry woods, my own handmade hardwood pipe.
It’s my contention that this was done in order mitigate looseness of the stem while smoking, as the wooden shank slightly expands. I found this out while making my first hardwood pipe and just drilling the mortise and and cutting the tenon in the normal way. So then I resorted to using the method used in the Ropp pipes.
I just drill a hole in the stummel, shape the the shank, and glue the shank into the bowl. The tooling involved to make it like the Ropp was cost prohibitive.
Detail of the cork liners in the mortises:
As evidenced by the old Delacour, this method is at least 120 years old.
Top to bottom: 1900 Delacour, Ropp cherry woods, my own handmade hardwood pipe.
It’s my contention that this was done in order mitigate looseness of the stem while smoking, as the wooden shank slightly expands. I found this out while making my first hardwood pipe and just drilling the mortise and and cutting the tenon in the normal way. So then I resorted to using the method used in the Ropp pipes.
I just drill a hole in the stummel, shape the the shank, and glue the shank into the bowl. The tooling involved to make it like the Ropp was cost prohibitive.
Detail of the cork liners in the mortises:
As evidenced by the old Delacour, this method is at least 120 years old.
And as far as the screw in part of the shank to bowl, I've had pipes where that was stripped out. Perhaps the OP used the wrong terminology. I built up the threads with layers of super glue and once it was snug I coated it with beeswax to allow it to turn more easily.
Of course if cranked down with gorilla strength it'll strip out...
Of course if cranked down with gorilla strength it'll strip out...
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