Faded Stain on Sandblasted Pipe

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paulie66scandinavian

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Jul 28, 2016
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EDIT: Fixed Capitalization in Title ( See Rule 9 ) - Bob

Another day I was cleaning surface of my sandblasted estate Cumberland Dunhill pipe with Murphys soap oil and smooth tooth brush, this resulted than the finish come out a bit and faded somewhat,now can I restain it using a brown leather dye?
Thanks for the tip.
 
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cosmicfolklore

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If there is any wax still in the grain of the pipe, it will prevent the stain from absorbing into the briar at all. I have soaked pipes in acetone, and then restained them with success. But, I have heard that acetone is not good for the briar... so maybe check out some of the staining videos or check with some of the repair bloggers.
 

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cosmicfolklore

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Not talking as an expert at all, so I don't mean to disparage jpmcwjr, but oils like mineral oil, can also dissolve away the wax coating even more, or redistribute it... I had a really nice pipe with a nice finish early on in my piping that I wiped with mineral oil, and it was glassy till the oil dried, and then it never seemed to gloss back up without adding more oil, and the oil never seemed to stay glossy.

Like the acetone suggestion, maybe just check the reborn pipes blogsite? Or, maybe a pipemaker can speak up on here.
This is where hearing from Georged would be really informative.
 

lukasstrifeson

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Jun 23, 2019
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I'm trying to restore a couple of sandblast pipes too.

If anyone have more tips and tricks to share on the subject matter, I would also greatly appreciate it.
 

BROBS

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clean them with water and a toothbrush then re-wax after dry with halcyon 2 and a toothbrush.
use a different toothbrush. :)

I'm not sure where murphy's oil soap ever got into the equation but that stuff leaves a residue.. they don't even recommend that you use it on antique furniture. It also has literal soap in it.
not a product I want anywhere near my pipe.
 

cosmicfolklore

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Skip Elliot showed me how he mixes in shellac crystals with a dissolved wax to make a semi-liquid concoction that he brushes on and then buffs off for his sandblasts. I think it's a proprietary thing where each pipemakers holds his recipe a secret of sorts... but, you may be able to find a recipe for one online. Skip's results look like very well waxed textures, without looking varnished.
But, I in no way would be able to tell someone how to do this. I was just suggesting that there may be a better way to get this look without just trying everything in the bathroom cabinet.
 
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BROBS

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Skip Elliot showed me how he mixes in shellac crystals with a dissolved wax to make a semi-liquid concoction that he brushes on and then buffs off for his sandblasts. I think it's a proprietary thing where each pipemakers holds his recipe a secret of sorts... but, you may be able to find a recipe for one online. Skip's results look like very well waxed textures, without looking varnished.
But, I in no way would be able to tell someone how to do this. I was just suggesting that there may be a better way to get this look without just trying everything in the bathroom cabinet.
I think a lot of pipemakers use danish oil on sandblasts, then wax.
 
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paulie66scandinavian

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Thank Boys,I will pay a closer look to this, good thing nothing too serious happened, as far as Murphys oil is concerned,this one what I had used was one of our domestic brand similar in consistency to Murphys, says general cleaning liquid for wooden &parquet floors consisting of 40% pine oil soap, , washes easily out, and whats more important, almost each and every pipe restorer seem to use this Murphys oil soap when cleaning them stummels even CanerodPiper* Mike on YTube
 
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jpmcwjr

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Skip Elliot showed me how he mixes in shellac crystals with a dissolved wax to make a semi-liquid concoction that he brushes on and then buffs off for his sandblasts. I think it's a proprietary thing where each pipemakers holds his recipe a secret of sorts... but, you may be able to find a recipe for one online. Skip's results look like very well waxed textures, without looking varnished.
But, I in no way would be able to tell someone how to do this. I was just suggesting that there may be a better way to get this look without just trying everything in the bathroom cabinet.
That would make a fine finish, but before the finish goes on, you want the color even. Removing all the wax, a light rub with a light oil, then see where you are before applying anything more permanent.
 
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burleyboy

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Jul 30, 2019
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Hi Paul,

I had something similar happen to a Dunhill County with this oil soap. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about that issue. What I've done was hand polishing the stummel with a mix of Carnauba wax and coconut oil afterwards, which reinforced the color pretty good. Simply by using the pipe normally again, it got nice and evenly darker than before in not much time.
 

craig61a

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Apr 29, 2017
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clean them with water and a toothbrush then re-wax after dry with halcyon 2 and a toothbrush.
use a different toothbrush. :)

I'm not sure where murphy's oil soap ever got into the equation but that stuff leaves a residue.. they don't even recommend that you use it on antique furniture. It also has literal soap in it.
not a product I want anywhere near my pipe.
There’s chemicals more toxic in the tobacco you’re smoking than in Murphy’s Oil Soap...

 

craig61a

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Apr 29, 2017
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I’ve found that application of wax or oil darkens the finish as you’ve found out...

Dyes penetrate the wood to a degree that is much less than the thickness of a human hair. Heating the wood does open the pores of the wood and helps penetration.

OK - I suppose people are going to start goofing on that word... a little side story. Years ago when I was in the Air Force, stationed at Lowry AFB, CO., one of the courses I took as a requirement to becoming an electronic countermeasures tech was “CATE and Penetration AIDS”. Always got a chuckle when it was mentioned...
 

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