Contrast Stain, Where Did I Go Wrong?

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mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,385
7,295
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
I wonder if the pipe making experts can advise me here. I have been experimenting trying to get a decent contrast stain on refurbished pipes with mixed results. Below is my latest attempt and I am not too happy with it.
What I did in the beginning was to stain black (Fiebings), immediately rub off with 99.9% alcohol, re-sand at circa 3000 grit then another coat of pale brown. These were ending up somewhat wishy-washy so for my latest attempt I let the black dry in air afore sanding then applying the pale brown.
This turned out slightly better but I know I should be able to do better. I appreciate no piece of briar behaves like any other but I feel it's my methods that are letting me down and not the briar.
Any and all advice is welcome.
Regards,
Jay.
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lohengrin

Lifer
Jun 16, 2015
1,198
2
I'll tell you my method:

I sand till 320/400, the grain have to appear clear, then I stain. When dry, I sand from 400 till 800, then I stain again. From 800 to 1000/1200 then the other colour. After I sand till 2500 grit.

If you prefer, you can start the first staining from 800.

For a deeper contrast I use the ebonizing method. You can find it here www.popularwoodworking.com.

Most important is the right sanding after staining: not too much to take off the stain not too little to keep the grain hidden.

Here is a pipe I stained with the ebonizing method (without usig a second colour).

I wanted to keep a dark hue, so I didn't sand too deeply after staining.
exrZMCG.jpg


 
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Since we are mostly a pipe smoking forum, with just few pipemakers, you'll probably get more professional advice from the pipemakers forum. I think it is pipemakersforum.com , but I'm not 100% sure that is the exact url. If you're making or restoring pipes, you probably need to get to know those guys.

 

zack24

Lifer
May 11, 2013
1,726
2
+1 on pipemakersforum.com...lot's of good detail there...
The short answer is to sand to 600 grit- stain black...and wait 24 hours for it to really set (thank Jeff Gracik for that tidbit.) If you have tons of time, pull out the 1200 grit paper and sand it down- I typically don't mess with the sandpaper- I buff it off, sand out the areas I can't reach, and top stain it..throw on a 1lb cut of platinum shellac flake, buff that out, wax it, and call it a day.
Here's one I finished a few weeks ago...-

iooug8.jpg


 

mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,385
7,295
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Zack, that is just the finish that I am after! Very impressive indeed. I shall try out your method of allowing the black to 'soak' in overnight afore hitting the sanding sheets again. By the way, I don't have a buffer I'm afraid (wish I did) so everything I do is done by hand.
Regards,
Jay.

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,433
The pipe in the original post does not look poorly done to me, maybe not optimal, but not funky. I haven't stained a pipe, but I suppose you improve doing this more times, as you gain control of the "medium." Being critical, the only aspect I don't like about the stain is that it is a little strident; you can't dictate what the grain offers. Also, a pipe or two I have bought new that had slightly over darkened grain has mellowed and improved with use and time. This wouldn't help sell a pipe, but if you plan to smoke it, it may become more visually pleasing.

 
Jan 8, 2013
7,493
733
Here's my latest... I sanded to 600 and then coated the pipe in black stain. Then I rubbed the pipe down with alcohol. This opens the grain allowing the stain to seep in. Then I coated the pipe with black stain. Then I set it on fire!!!! What this does, is it heats the briar and again opens the grain allowing that stain to seep in there and sets it. I lightly sand again with 600 grit. And then I added light brown while moving up in grits between sanding for a total of 4 coats of brown. The last two coats I diluted with some alcohol. Some will heat the briar before staining black with a heat gun and I understand it works quite well.
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ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,094
Maryland
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I heat the briar with a heat gun before the first stain, that helps it get absorbed into the grain. I use the Fieblings black, flame on, buff off and then a very light medium brown over top.

 

mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,385
7,295
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Al, not having a heatgun (no buffer either) I wonder if a quick turn in the microwave would achieve the same end or am I being a total wally in the suggestion?
Regards,
Jay.

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,094
Maryland
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While I'm tempted to say the microwave wouldn't hurt, I think it might heat too unevenly? Try a hair dryer (I don't have one of those, but my wife does!)

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,094
Maryland
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I generally avoid "Hobby Lobby", Micheals, etc. but the wife did drag me in! I always say: "ew, this place smells". She always wacks me and a says "that is potpourri"...

 
I picked up a heat gun for under $10 at Harbor Freight. I've also seen variable speed mini grinders there that will take a 3" buffing wheel for $10. If you're just playing around with your own pipes, it should be enough. HF tools generally are garbage that won't last terribly long, but if you're just grinding a lawnmower blade occasionally or polishing a pipe for yourself, it should last at least $10 worth.

 

fnord

Lifer
Dec 28, 2011
2,746
8
Topeka, KS
Jay:
The work you've displayed so far is amazing.
I don't think you have Harbor Freight in the UK. It's a retail outlet for shop tools, hardware and sundries most of us amateur DIYs use once or twice every five years or so. The products are made in China, guaranteed to fail, but they do deliver the goods - more or less - for a while. I'm sure you have something comparable.
My buffing lash up is a washing machine motor - cheaply found anywhere - with really solid Beall pads. But your handwork puts my machinework to shame.
As to the contrasting, you're almost there. The skill and patience required to do this is well beyond my reach but you're knocking on the door, brother.
Cheers to you,
Fnord

 
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