Buffing Old Vulcanite

[ClassicKehler]

Hey everyone! I have a question about buffing an old vulcanite stem on a Barling. I lightly sanded only the portion where there was tooth chatter and then i buffed using tripoli, and then white diamond. It appears as though there are raised specs imbeded in the vulcanite that i cannot get out. The look unsightly to me but maybe its just the age of the stem. The material was smooth before i buffed it. Any thoughts?

 

[Chasing Embers]

Could be metal or other foreign materials. Got photos?

 

[Briarcutter]

You may have been applying too much pressure. I take it to 1500 grit then start with the first of my four compounds. Light pressure! Could be the composition of the ebonite, harder particles in the mixture and you polished away the softer parts.

 

[ClassicKehler]

Usually i dont have this issue with the ebonite stems that i make so thats why i thought this might be different. I should try sanding to 1500 grit then. I usually only do 800.

 

[ClassicKehler]

I sanded the specks out and now Im buffing alot lighter. Seems to be working so far.

 

[mingc]

If you're hoping to get the vulcanite to look new with a polished shine, you'll have to remove all of the oxidation. To help see the oxidation, wet the stem and look at it in bright daylight.

 

[ssjones]

I wouldn't use tripoli, on a stem that I liked.

 

[Wesley pipes]

I have had really good luck using Flitz metal polish to help remove oxidation from vulcanite stems, I find its best to put on a pair of rubber gloves and just rub it into the stem for a few minutes then immediately wipe/clean it off, then add your usual oil to keep the oxidation from coming back, by far the best method I have found. hope this helps!

 

[craig61a]

Sounds like there were some deeper pits that didn’t get smoothed out initially. Polishing media filled them in.

But it sounds like you’re on the right track now.

 

[ClassicKehler]

Thanks alot for the input guys! Sounds like i probably had some deeper oxidation that was hard to see until i polished it.

 

[ClassicKehler]

I wouldn't use tripoli, on a stem that I liked.

May I ask why?

 

[Briarcutter]

Some compounds are very aggressive, if you're not light and gentle with the pressure you can leave ripples in the material. There's a learning curve knowing what you can and can't get away with on the wheels,a lot of damage can be caused by the wheel! Like I mentioned, I take it to 1500 before I use the wheels. In the beginning I was learning, and lazy. i tried to remove heavy scratches with the wheels, I just ended up with shiny scratches Not that I'm claiming to have mastered it,I'm always learning, but polishing is an art.

 

[ClassicKehler]

I appreciate your expertise @Briarcutter I might hit you up for more tips yet. What buffing compounds do you use?

 

[Chasing Embers]

Older vulcanite can have metal or other impurities from the manufacturing process.


I'd never personally use a buffer on a stem.

 

[HawkeyeLinus]

FWIW, I had great results with Soft Scrub, progressive and very fine sanding pads and more patience than I thought I possessed on a stem I thought was way beyond saving, but was convinced to give it a try. Had tons of help here and checking out Reborn Pipes.

 

[ClassicKehler]

Older vulcanite can have metal or other impurities from the manufacturing process.
View attachment 367138

I'd never personally use a buffer on a stem.

Thats interesting. I was definitely wondering if the age was a factor

 

[Briarcutter]

I appreciate your expertise @Briarcutter. I might hit you up for more tips yet. What buffing compounds do you use?

Oh geeze, I dislike that question very much. Not that I don't want to answer, it's that I dont really know. I've been doing it so long I just use what I have, I stocked up and it's not like I have to continually buy it, it lasts a while. I've worked with a company called "Matchless " years ago. They sent me samples with only numbers and I ordered the ones that work. Even if I could find the part numbers I don't think it would help, I believe they are out of business. I would suggest working with a company telling them what you are polishing then find a agressive, medium, then fine and superfine. There is a lot to compounds. Some very dry, some greesy, it's all what you like best. Some compounds strictly for metals, some for strictly specific metals, some for plastics, you want the plastic compounds. Compounds can get pretty complicated.

 

[Sigmund]

Older vulcanite can have metal or other impurities from the manufacturing process.
View attachment 367138

I'd never personally use a buffer on a stem.

Modern hard rubber can have the same impurities. Most of the time the impurities are from improper removal of cleaning compounds used in between batches of vulcanite. Its annoying but it sometimes happens. Ive encountered it when working on woodwind mouthpieces. You start to sand or file and a speck shows up encased in the material. It looks just like that and typically presents as something fuzzy...almost material like. Ive no idea exactly what it is.

 

[ssjones]

Some compounds are very aggressive, if you're not light and gentle with the pressure you can leave ripples in the material. There's a learning curve knowing what you can and can't get away with on the wheels,a lot of damage can be caused by the wheel!

Bingo. I've restored just close to 500 pipes in the past 12 years. I've put on the Tripoli wheel maybe six times,never on a stem for the reason stated above. You can try to buff out oxidation, but you shouldn't. There's no shortcut for removing oxidation, only wet sanding. (as George D has stated many times)

 

[ClassicKehler]

So this is what im dealing with. Its hard to see but i put some water on it so that the specks would show up in the picture. They show up as it gets shinier in the buffing. Is this still oxidization?