Bruce Weaver Estate. Has This Been Repaired?

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I purchased this Bruce Weaver as an Estate Pipe on June 1st from a very reputable company. I have purchased thousands of dollars worth of pipes and tobacco from these folks and have not had 1 single problem. I have smoked this pipe less than 10 times and tonight was breaking it down to do a thorough cleaning and as I was twisting them stem out, it actually twisted into 2 pieces. There was a bunch of glue that I wiped off before I shot the photos. Please see pictures below.

Is this a repaired stem? It looks to me like the stem was drilled out and glued together possibly adding the bit that goes into the stummel leading me to believe that the original owner may have broken it but I am by no means an expert.

Before I approach the company, I wanted to ask you all your thoughts if you believe this is a repaired stem or do pipe makers build them like this? In the description, no where does it state it was repaired. Description is quoted below:

"While the late Bruce Weaver's sandblasting technique receives enormous praise, his smooth pipes are equally impressive, as this wonderful smooth Tulip attests. In a light chestnut stain, the grain is accentuated as it rises up the bowl to the flat rim. The bowl extends at an angle from the transition as if an independent element, its curvature tapering to the softly curved heel and underside, which is a panel expanding from the spalted maple accent and into the underside of the bowl with careful asymmetry, a crisp ridgeline defining its lenticular aspect on the right side for a particularly natural-esque aesthetic."

Thoughts?

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I just want to be sure one way or the other before I either approach the seller or get it repaired. Maybe it isn't as big a deal as I think? It was not a cheap pipe..... And irreplaceable now. It's a GREAT VaPer smoker.

I have other Artisan pipes with this style (approx.) stem and they all look turned from tip to toe, not glued?
 

doug535

Starting to Get Obsessed
Jul 28, 2019
271
1,307
57
Independence, MO.
I just want to be sure one way or the other before I either approach the seller or get it repaired. Maybe it isn't as big a deal as I think? It was not a cheap pipe..... And irreplaceable now. It's a GREAT VaPer smoker.

I have other Artisan pipes with this style (approx.) stem and they all look turned from tip to toe, not glued?
Swiped from Wiki page....
His shaping blossomed and he has since been known as an affable guy who makes pipes that are aggressively blasted to show very intricate growth rings. Indeed, Bruce fiddled with blasting techniques before finding one that was different from everyone else. Though very time-consuming, they are easily recognizable. All of his pipes feature handcut stems from vulcanite rods, or bakelite, and all feature Delrin tenons.
 
Swiped from Wiki page....
His shaping blossomed and he has since been known as an affable guy who makes pipes that are aggressively blasted to show very intricate growth rings. Indeed, Bruce fiddled with blasting techniques before finding one that was different from everyone else. Though very time-consuming, they are easily recognizable. All of his pipes feature handcut stems from vulcanite rods, or bakelite, and all feature Delrin tenons.

So, I infer from this statement that Bruce made these 2 piece as part of his design? If so what type of adhesive do I use to re-affix it?
 
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georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,530
14,182
There were, and still are, a number of reputable pipe makers who use glue-in tenons.

Since the same technique is used to repair snapped-off integral tenons, it can be difficult to know which is which when one "comes undone".

Someone who is familiar with Bruce's standard method is the only way to know.

(If he used BOTH methods during the time he made pipes---several makers have---maybe that someone will know by the pipe's production date.)

PS --- if forced to guess based on having done hundreds of tenon repairs, yours looks to have been made that way originally. Improper/inadequate gluing was---and still is---a major problem with the technique.
 
Last edited:

mortonbriar

Lifer
Oct 25, 2013
2,676
5,722
New Zealand
I used that G flex epoxy on a couple of delrin rod tenons (referred to in that thread George posted) and it has held up for me. Actually I am fairly sure/certain @georged probably recommended the g flex to me too. 'Keep it in the fridge so it lasts longer' was the other recommendation.
 
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I used that G flex epoxy on a couple of delrin rod tenons (referred to in that thread George posted) and it has held up for me. Actually I am fairly sure/certain @georged probably recommended the g flex to me too. 'Keep it in the fridge so it lasts longer' was the other recommendation.

I happen to have some of the JB Weld Plastic adhesive mentioned in that thread on hand. Has anyone tried that? If not I will pick up some G flex epoxy.
 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,530
14,182
I happen to have some of the JB Weld Plastic adhesive mentioned in that thread on hand. Has anyone tried that? If not I will pick up some G flex epoxy.

If you go the G-Flex route, get the 655 formulation not the 650. MUCH easier to control when gluing tenons. (a.k.a. less chance you'll glue the stem to the shank)
 

docaitch

Lurker
May 15, 2018
29
32
There is a lot to be said for the Delrin tenon. They are self lubricating,strong and flexible as noted above.
The major drawback is the gluing. Glue does not adhere well to Delrin and the Delrin must be prepped with machining, threads, or scoring in order to develop a mechanical bond. Clean the Delrin before regluing.
A couple of taps with a soft faced hammer will help set the Delrin into its mortise
G Flex works well. Wipe of the excess immediately after gluing. You can use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol to clean.
One word of caution - the glue will almost certainly be pushed into the airway when you replace the tenon, so you will have to clear the airway- I do this after the glue drys by reboring the airway, but I am working with rod that is straight.
You can hand twist an appropriate size drill bit through the airway after it sets for one-two hours (the excess no longer sticks to your finger) but is still soft.
If you need more detail, you can PM me.
docaitch
 
There is a lot to be said for the Delrin tenon. They are self lubricating,strong and flexible as noted above.
The major drawback is the gluing. Glue does not adhere well to Delrin and the Delrin must be prepped with machining, threads, or scoring in order to develop a mechanical bond. Clean the Delrin before regluing.
A couple of taps with a soft faced hammer will help set the Delrin into its mortise
G Flex works well. Wipe of the excess immediately after gluing. You can use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol to clean.
One word of caution - the glue will almost certainly be pushed into the airway when you replace the tenon, so you will have to clear the airway- I do this after the glue drys by reboring the airway, but I am working with rod that is straight.
You can hand twist an appropriate size drill bit through the airway after it sets for one-two hours (the excess no longer sticks to your finger) but is still soft.
If you need more detail, you can PM me.
docaitch

Thanks so much!
 
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Back to PERFECT! I used JB Weld 2 part Plastic Bonder and it does exactly what it says. It looks like the 2 components have chemically blended into a new compound. Provide it can take a little heat it should be a permanent fix. This pipe is one of my favorite Virginia smokers. I am happy to have it back in the rotation!

Thanks to all of you for your guidance and sage advice! You saved Georged from "one more damned pipe to fix!" :)

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