Broken Castello

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musicman

Lifer
Nov 12, 2019
1,119
6,052
Cincinnati, OH
So, I bought this estate Castello 75 Sea Rock G from a forum member back in May. It was a fantastic smoker with a huge chamber that would last 90+ minutes.

A couple of weeks ago, I was smoking it in my car on the way to go for a hike. I finished my smoke, then ran a pipe cleaner through. I was holding the stummel, and when the pipe cleaner got close to the chamber, the pipe broke clean in two, basically like a piece of rotten wood. ? I had put very little torque on it so it was pretty shocking.

The pipe had previously had a break closer to the stem that was repaired by inserting a metal tube, and I believe the forum member had bought it from Marty Pulvers in that condition and had no problem with it, but there was obviously another crack that had not been dealt with/repaired.

Now, I hold nothing against the forum member. There is no way he would have known of the weakness when he listed it and I’m sure if he had he wouldn’t have sold it to me.

Any advice on whether or not this is fixable, and if so, where to send it? Any help is greatly appreciated. 3AEFA70F-9FDF-4127-8E77-684FCE771965.jpeg04EBCD20-DE43-4AF7-BE98-182AC14B2B15.jpegCEC92C10-C2CE-4478-A132-4B7A54792996.jpeg
 

saltedplug

Lifer
Aug 20, 2013
5,194
5,101
That's such a shame. I feel for you.

If George doesn't take it on, I'm sure he will refer you in the right direction.
 
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georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,542
14,270
If the tube used for the first fix was aluminum, the pipe is fixable in a permanent & invisible way. If it was stainless steel, the only fix will be either an unreinforced one (a butt join) that will be weak(ish) but difficult to see OR a reinforced one that will show a glue line. There is no "C".
 

musicman

Lifer
Nov 12, 2019
1,119
6,052
Cincinnati, OH
If the tube used for the first fix was aluminum, the pipe is fixable in a permanent & invisible way. If it was stainless steel, the only fix will be either an unreinforced one (a butt join) that will be weak(ish) but difficult to see OR a reinforced one that will show a glue line. There is no "C".
Thank you for this excellent reply. I will try to determine what material the tube was. Do you have any recommendations as to who would be best suited to do this work? You? Mike Myers?
 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,542
14,270
Here are the whys underlying my earlier comment for anyone curious who is unfamiliar with pipe repair "standard methods".

A reinforcing sleeve is never inserted "between" broken shank pieces by drilling/reaming the airway to sleeve OD first---meaning reaming each half separately and then slipping the halves "over" the tube---because the two drilled/reamed holes will not line up axially. There is ZERO chance, in fact.

The correct way is to glue the shank back together first and THEN drill/ream the airway to accept the tube. Axial alignment is guaranteed.

If the shank already has an "upstream" tube made of stainless steel, though, it will block further reaming. Cutting SS is impossible in this situation (for all practical purposes).

If the previous tube is a common alloy of aluminum, though, cutting through it should present no problems. The enture length of the airway can then be sleeved.
 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,542
14,270
I have seen wooden instruments pinned for none detectable repair. Had it done on my bagpipes. It's airtight. Why isn't shank fixed that way? Too thin to pin?
I'm not sure what you mean.

Pinning a tube that's SPLIT along its axis is something entirely different.

Pinning a butt-join isn't possible in a way that will add anything but complexity and slop to the equation. Axial pins cannot be aligned accurately enough to add anything structurally (the receiving holes would have to be oversize); and angled, oblique "blind" pins couldn't be long enough to add rigidity/strength (plus the ends would either have to be countersunk and the holes filled with putty, or left visible.)

A tube would not only be easier and add strength, but protect the join from moisture, smoking acids/tars etc. which would eventually soften the wood the glue is attached to & thereby weaken it.
 

musicman

Lifer
Nov 12, 2019
1,119
6,052
Cincinnati, OH
Hey everyone. I just wanted to thank y'all for your great responses, and especially @georged for giving me both the simple answer as well as the complicated answer (I love detailed, complicated answers!).

I am fairly sure based on the appearance of the inner tube that it's aluminum, so later in the year, after I make this impending move to Ohio and get settled in a house, I'm planning on sending the Castello to Walker for repairs.
 

LikeDadDid

Can't Leave
Apr 27, 2021
426
976
Virginia Beach
There is a hidden opportunity here. What you need to do is pack both sides of the airway with epoxy putty. Use the back end of one of those little bamboo skewers to really ram it in there. When the ramming splits the shank open just use more epoxy. Leave some on the ends and jam them together and wrap the whole thing tightly with stretchy electrical tape. Then drill your new airway. When the bit wanders and comes out the side of the shank, just use more epoxy again. Violin! You're done. The pipe won't smoke again, but it doesn't smoke now so you won't lose anything there, and you will have gained some priceless experience. There's always a bright side.
 

SpookedPiper

Lifer
Sep 9, 2019
2,055
10,503
East coast
So, I bought this estate Castello 75 Sea Rock G from a forum member back in May. It was a fantastic smoker with a huge chamber that would last 90+ minutes.

A couple of weeks ago, I was smoking it in my car on the way to go for a hike. I finished my smoke, then ran a pipe cleaner through. I was holding the stummel, and when the pipe cleaner got close to the chamber, the pipe broke clean in two, basically like a piece of rotten wood. ? I had put very little torque on it so it was pretty shocking.

The pipe had previously had a break closer to the stem that was repaired by inserting a metal tube, and I believe the forum member had bought it from Marty Pulvers in that condition and had no problem with it, but there was obviously another crack that had not been dealt with/repaired.

Now, I hold nothing against the forum member. There is no way he would have known of the weakness when he listed it and I’m sure if he had he wouldn’t have sold it to me.

Any advice on whether or not this is fixable, and if so, where to send it? Any help is greatly appreciated. View attachment 90977View attachment 90978View attachment 90979
Interesting to see the cross section of that shank. It almost looks like a pit/burn out in the darkened spot. I agree that there's no way someone would be able to know about it other than the artisan that made or stained it.

Best of luck with the move and repair.
 
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musicman

Lifer
Nov 12, 2019
1,119
6,052
Cincinnati, OH
Interesting to see the cross section of that shank. It almost looks like a pit/burn out in the darkened spot. I agree that there's no way someone would be able to know about it other than the artisan that made or stained it.

Best of luck with the move and repair.
Thanks! I thought that was interesting as well, which is exactly why I included that picture in the post. Seems like a really weird place to have any sort of misuse induced burn-out, so the only conclusion I'm left with is that it was some sort of weakness in the block. I do wonder about whether the artisan would have known about it, given Castello's reputation for excellence, and the fact that this is a "G" grade pipe (yes, I know that's mostly about size for the Sea Rock line, but my understanding is that the best blocks are saved for the biggest pipes, hence the higher grade-and price).