Amateur Cleaning/Restoration Comments & Questions

[shanez]

I thought I'd start this to help me keep track of what I find works for me (and what doesn't) as my skills progress. I'll try to make posts addressing single issues rather than long winded posts that can be overly comprehensive. Hopefully when I post about needing a better solution for something someone will have a suggestion or even try this instead of that ideas.

This is just for rank amateur stuff as I leave the tricky stuff to the professionals. ?

Right now I find, whether routine cleaning after smoking or cleaning of a newly arrived estate pipe, hot water flushing, pipe cleaners, paper towels, and a little elbow grease is highly effective. I did feel a little weird the first time I put a pipe under a stream of running hot water but I quickly got used to it even on more expensive pipes.

If a pipe is in good shape and just needed a good cleansing with water I'm really liking these Fender (the guitar people) microfiber polishing cloths for a final polish before putting my pipes away:



I got a 2 pack for $6.95 on amazon.

They work really well for removing fingerprints, etc.

 

[mso489]

That sounds right to me. People love to involve machinery, but that is pretty heavy handed for many pipe restoration chores. Often, less is more, and no rpm or horsepower is required. I don't even own a reamer, though that may make some slap their foreheads or want to slap mine. Some pipe rebuilds require the whole workshop, but restoration not so much.

 

[shanez]

Yep. Trying to avoid power equipment.

Been having good luck de-oxidizing stems. Had a heavily oxidized stem clean up well by starting with a hand rubbing with barkeeper's friend made into a paste. Did that several times and then spent a fair amount of time working through various grits of micromesh. I got this set of micromesh pads from amazon:



I find that I could probably do without the 1800, 3200, and 3600 grits. It has also helped to not try to "spot" polish the stem unless it has a very mild and small problem. If the stem is mostly ugly it turns out better to just work the whole thing over with the whole grit and work my way up through the grits.

After the micromesh I applied obsidian oil as evenly as I could with my fingers and let is sit for several minutes. I'm not sure if letting it sit is necessary but it's what I did. I wiped it down with a clean cloth and then polished it with my Fender microfiber cloth. I did spend quite a bit of time with the 8000 and 12000 grits and this is the first time I've really got a stem to finish with that nice shiny almost mirror like gleam.

I've got a couple of stems to go back and revisit as I can see where I didn't quite get all of the oxidation removed. It seems like patience and just keep working with the pads is the key here.

I've ordered some different micromesh "cloths" that come with a foam block and are larger than the pads I currently have so I guess I'll find out if they make things just a bit easier. I'll report after using them.

 

[mingc]

I started with the square micro mesh pads but then bought the sticks. Now I hardly use the squares. I find the sticks easier to hold, which makes them more versatile.

 

[trubka2]

I started with the square micro mesh pads but then bought the sticks. Now I hardly use the squares. I find the sticks easier to hold, which makes them more versatile.

What? They make micro mesh sticks?! Man, I wish I knew that before now. The untold hours wasted cursing those stupid little pads...

 

[Chasing Embers]

What? They make micro mesh sticks?! Man, I wish I knew that before now. The untold hours wasted cursing those stupid little pads...

They have the sticks, but you can always cut the squares into rectangles to fit where you need them. Prior to giving up abrasives altogether, I would do that for forehand stems.

 

[Parsimonious Piper]

I use a set of micromesh in the same grits but they‘re the slightly larger cloth rectangles with the foam block you mentioned @shanez. I don’t find the foam terribly useful, but like the cloth form. You can bend it around a square rod or file and get into the crease of the button without reshaping it. I also find that they work better and stay clean/usable longer if I keep them wet under a tap at a very slow drizzle.

 

[trubka2]

They have the sticks, but you can always cut the squares into rectangles to fit where you need them. Prior to giving up abrasives altogether, I would do that for forehand stems.

Yeah, I was cutting them up and gluing them to tongue depressors, with predictable results. It's less about the shape than having something some stiffness to help with corners and such. Got me a brand, spanking new set of micromesh sticks on the way now though!

 

[mingc]

Prior to giving up abrasives altogether . . .

No more toothpaste?

 

[shanez]

I ordered a set of whetstone sticks that go up to 3000. I'm hoping they'll really help make getting that edge right in front of the button easy to clean up.

6 pieces for $13.60:



Plus I can use them for other things.

 

[Ahi Ka]

I’ve been thinking about getting some micromesh pads (or equivalent) as up until now I have been using wet/dry sandpaper. Can anyone recommend a brand? I live in NZ so would have to be from a retailer that ships internationally.

 

[mikethompson]

Micromesh pads are a go-to for me, but like anything else you use on a pipe, use a light light light hand.

I also use mineral oil instead of obsidian oil on the stems. Very cheap and easy to find with great results.

 

[shanez]

I’ve been thinking about getting some micromesh pads (or equivalent) as up until now I have been using wet/dry sandpaper. Can anyone recommend a brand? I live in NZ so would have to be from a retailer that ships internationally.

I order from Amazon so I don't know what you have available there but you might find something with a thorough web search.

 

[Chasing Embers]

No more toothpaste?

Only to give a mirror finish. I was referring to what I use for oxidation removal. No longer using sandpaper, micromesh, Magic Erasers, or Barkeeper's Friend.

 

[mingc]

Only to give a mirror finish. I was referring to what I use for oxidation removal. No longer using sandpaper, micromesh, Magic Erasers, or Barkeeper's Friend.

Got it.

 

[mingc]

I’ve been thinking about getting some micromesh pads (or equivalent) as up until now I have been using wet/dry sandpaper. Can anyone recommend a brand? I live in NZ so would have to be from a retailer that ships internationally.

I believe Mircro-Mesh is a brand. I'm not sure there are equivalent brands or products, especially for the finer grits, 6000, 8000, and 12,000, which are the ones that really put on the shine.

As for someone who ships to Aotearoa, I've no clue, I'm afraid.

 

[Ahi Ka]

I believe Mircro-Mesh is a brand. I'm not sure there are equivalent brands or products, especially for the finer grits, 6000, 8000, and 12,000, which are the ones that really put on the shine.

As for someone who ships to Aotearoa, I've no clue, I'm afraid.

Cool. Knowing that it is a brand is helpful as I just found some locally ??

 

[Eaglesgift]

I believe Mircro-Mesh is a brand. I'm not sure there are equivalent brands or products, especially for the finer grits, 6000, 8000, and 12,000, which are the ones that really put on the shine.

As for someone who ships to Aotearoa, I've no clue, I'm afraid.

There’s 3M lapping film, which goes up to .05 micron, which is about 500,000 grit