Estate Pipes, Cleaning and Maintaining a Pipe and Questions

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Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
Ok so I got the reaming tools reborn pipes uses. Now for my pipes, I'll just use sandpaper to maintain my cake. On the estate pipes I've recently bought that have not been cleaned, I will be taking them back to wood. Or as close to whatever finish is in the bowl.

As for waxing a pipe, I know wood occasionally needs to be cleaned and waxed to maintain it properly. Wood will dry out and become dull and susceptible to moisture and dirt without something to protect it. Eventually dirt and debris will imbed in the wood and finish. I'm guessing wood pipes would need it even more. Its constantly going through heat and cool cycles. Does cleaning and waxing make it look nice? Yes, but there's also a protective coating. You use wax on wood for the same reason you wax your car. To protect the surface.

Can silicone impregnated cloths do the same. I have no idea. I use something similar on my guns in between cleanings and maintenance. They used to make one for wood stocks. Not sure if they still do since non of my guns have wood stocks any longer.

I've done some research and found that Decatur makes a wax for smooth and rusticated pipes. No need to buy 2 different kinds. Has anyone tried this? I understand some people use automotive carnuba wax. I guess its ok, but isn't it a pain in the butt to strip off? I'm thinking of if the time ever comes to restore or recolor your pipe. If your like me, you don't abuse your pipes so that day may never come.

Now you can't just keep putting wax on wood. Eventually it needs to be removed or it'll haze up and sometimes it won't dry properly. I don't have enough experience to say the same for pipes.

Am I off in thinking the wood in a pipe needs the same care as fine wood furniture? Many wood workers either stain, then wax, or simply wax the piece when finishing. Others of course use polyurethane or shellac. But never on a pipe. They like fire too much.

So, yes I'm of the mind that a wood pipe needs wax or something to protect it from the elements. From my research I'm guessing its a personal preference as to brand and type.

When I thought of starting this post, I was going to mention the reamers and ask what was the best wax but from reading past posts, I understand the answer is as varied as each member. In the end I wound up just advocating for the need of waxing and the need to know if anyone ever used the Decatur "no buff" wax. Or if there's a better wax that can be used on smooth and rusticated pipes?

Olive oil and similar will eventually go bad. I use mineral oil on our wood spoons but not certain if it can be used near a direct flame. Or how a flame will affect the oil.

Thanks for stopping by. I look forward to the advice and debate.
 

sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
22,962
58,342
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
We all have different methods that satisfy us. I use both Paragon and Halcyon microcrystalline waxes and am happy with the results. Rather than follow the directions on the jar I use my own method for polishing that produces a far superior gloss.
If you're experienced and adept with a buffer you can go the carnuba route. In inept hands a buffer is a weapon of pipe destruction.
 

Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
I forgot to mention that some of the stems on my "new" pipes are oxidized. I understand how to go about just removing light oxidation and polishing. I also understand how to remove teeth marks etc.., but what's best for heavy oxidation itself? As for bringing the stem back to a gloss finish, can rubbing compounds be used? If its not petroleum based.

My "Fordom" isn't up and running yet. I need to replace the plug. So I'm looking for a simple way to clean and polish the stems. I'm going to try toothpaste. I may just decide to leave it to a pro. But $15 a pipe could get expensive quick. Especially since I just bought about 10+ pipes. Got most for $10-$20, including shipping. Some I got for $3-$5 including shipping. And they're nice brands. Kaywoodie,GBD, Butz Choquin, BBB, Jobey, C.B. Perkins Wagner, Sandor, Mastercraft, Kronburg, Comoy, and a couple new Road Town. Figured I'd give them a try. I'll post pictures as soon as they all arrive

There's a couple pipe lots I'm watching. I have 1 white Kaywoodie, may get another. I also want a Peterson and a Dunhill. Don't want to say too much. Don't need the competition.

Only a handful need reaming, cleaning, and stem restoration. A couple are new, the rest have either been cleaned or just need sanitizing. I'll be sanitizing all the presmoked pipes. For obvious reasons and safety.

I tried my best to find pipes that had no cake yet. I don't understand why sellers never take a picture of inside the bowl? I feel like they're trying to deceive me. No!! No!! Don't look in there!! Everyone I asked did send bowl pictures. Now I feel like a bowl perv. Many simply posted a picture or 2. Probably figured others would be interested in seeing it as well. I also asked for pictures of the mortice and tenons if they didn't already have them.

See I'm paying attention!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Looking forward to the advice.
 

Waning Embers

Captain of the Black Frigate
Nov 12, 2014
47,718
128,976
but what's best for heavy oxidation itself? As for bringing the stem back to a gloss finish, can rubbing compounds be used?
An easy way is to scrub them with magic erasers and polish them with Flitz metal polish.

I use a lighter and a wet paper towel for oxidation removal and polish them by thumb buffing them with toothpaste.

20180613_180543.jpg
 

Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
With a 3750 rpm motor and an 8” buff, you can really get some distance...


I have a "Fordom" type system. I've used these before on gun smithing my own guns. I need to adapt the ancient plug to a new type so I can attach it to the foot control.

My dad taught me a lot. He was a mechanic, class A welder for Thrall Car.He went to trade school for body,, fender, frame, and paint, He learned how to be a mechanic by rebuilding his flat heads over and over after they blew up racing. While working as a mechanic he could tune by ear better than by computer. He also built, repaired, finished/refinished some furniture. On top of that I was an envelope machine adjuster for 20 years before my back went out and I had about a dozen surgeries. Did yearly maintenance where we tore down the machines and basically refurbished them front to back, top to bottom.

So when it comes to tool usage I'd say I'm a pro. I've done inlay, and small tedious repairs to nearly everything a house could have. I used to build model cars, trucks, motorcycles, and boats. I love old sailing and clipper ships. Guess that's why I was a watercraft engineer in the Army. I've designed tools for my work in the Army and envelope manufacturers. Just stuff to make the job easier.

But I do take your advice to heart. A second of inattention and damage, disaster or worse could happen.

Thanks
 

Waning Embers

Captain of the Black Frigate
Nov 12, 2014
47,718
128,976
I have a "Fordom" type system. I've used these before on gun smithing my own guns. I need to adapt the ancient plug to a new type so I can attach it to the foot control.
Around 1500 RPMs is the goldilocks zone for pipe buffing and waxing ?
 

Waning Embers

Captain of the Black Frigate
Nov 12, 2014
47,718
128,976
Yes I'm going to give it a try. Just looking for additional info just in case its very stubborn oxidation.
Work slow at first to see what you're dealing with and remove as little material as necessary. A stem is easily deformed and very quickly.
 

Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
Reaming tools do a good job, just so easy to make a mistake and take a chunk out of the chamber or worse, crack the bowl.

View attachment 48366

The pipnet was way too expensive. The Decatur was similar so I got it. The Kleen reem looked like a better quality tool. Does anyone know if there are additional attachments? The senior kit had several additional parts than just the tool.

Thanks
 

Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
I got the reamers just in case. I'm going to try sandpaper on a rounded bottom dowel. Like the end of a broomstick. I'm not going to put the sandpaper in a position where it will sand the bottom of the bowl. Just the sides. The reason for using a rounded dowel is so I don't create a ridge on the bottom.

Speaking of ridges, I saw a video I thought was on YouTube, but its not in my history. It's about changing the shape of bowls on pipes that gurgle. Just the bottom. He created a sort of trough. I wish I could remember where I saw it.

Anyway I wanted to get opinions on what y'all think. His theory is that many pipe makers are making the bottom of the bowls incorrectly, thus the gurgle. Now he did admit that sometimes, the tobacco moisture, or improper smoking habits will still cause a gurgle. If I'm not confusing his video with another. I've watched so many sometimes I link them together.

I can't believe I scored a Jobey Stromboli for $15. I got the Peterson I wanted, I think at a fair price. I'm still working on a Dunhill. I let the second white Kaywoodie slip through my fingers. I will persevere.

Pipe smokers are a considerate bunch. Not once has anyone sniped me, yet!! I thought about doing it but, do unto others right. I walked away from several pipes because I didn't want to pay above a certain amount for that particular one and I thought it may be at it's value point. I think that's how the bidders I crossed paths think as well. Many stopped bidding when it reached a certain price point. That's not to say the next person isn't willing to pay more. Watch, now I'm going to be sniped.

The deals I walked away from is because I figure eventually there will be a similar if not identical, possibly even better, pipe deal tomorrow.

Thanks for stopping by and letting me pick your brains.
 

Rigidman

Starting to Get Obsessed
Oct 10, 2020
298
219
61
Richmond VA. Vicinity.
I guess I better elaborate on the trough. He built up the bottom, creating a shelf, except the area where the draught hole is. He left about 1/4"-5/16" gap there. I guess the trough was about an 1/8"-1/4" deep. It was "C" shaped and tapered to the wall of the bowl near the draught hole. He claims it makes the pipes better smokers. He also mentioned opening up the draught hole. I think. My brains begging for a break. Not to mention my eyes.

Thanks
 
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