Vulcanite stem oxidation: what is totally unsavable?

menuhin · Apr 22, 2015

Hi forum members and experienced restore workers,
There are times when you try to remove the oxidation from Vulcanite stems but eventually have to toss them away because the oxidation is way too deep to be removed.

I am curious as some of you may already have developed the ability to quickly judge if an oxidized stem can be saved or not. What do you look for? e.g. which part of the stem or what are some of the signs?
This would save the hassle of wasting lots of time and effort. :puffpipe:

mso489 · Apr 22, 2015

Tooth wear more than oxidation seems to be the kiss of death for stems, even to holes worn in the bit, and even these are sometimes repaired with glue. Some of the restorations on Forums take pipes spooky with gray-green crud and unveil a shiny black like-new Vulcanite underneath. Even with a polishing cloth I can bring some of my oldest pipes back to a reasonably appetizing shine, although not quite like the resto guys working at their workbench buffers. Wow.

xrundog · Apr 22, 2015

I have not yet failed to save a stem with Magic Eraser and Soft Scrub. And I've had a few that were really bad. It all came off. I do the work in about 5 minute stages so it doesn't seem to be as hard. I've probably spent as much as an hour with the really bad ones.

I am also more concerned with tooth marks when I am considering buying a pipe.

huntertrw · Apr 22, 2015

Like xrundog, I have yet to encounter a stem that was too badly oxidized to be saved, and I've had some lulus that have ranged in color from sulfurous tan to a sickly yellow-green. I use Bon-Ami cleanser (Hasn't scratched yet) followed by chlorine bleach (I can hear the shrieking of some now!) followed by micro-mesh pads. It may not be the universally-accepted practice, but, hey, it works well for me.

brass · Apr 22, 2015

Well, Hunter, at least we know that if we get a pipe from you, it will be sanitized. :P

kf4bsb · Apr 22, 2015

I agree with all of the above post as I have yet to run into a stem that was too badly oxidized to save. My bigger concern is also erosion of the material to bite marks.

danielplainview · Apr 22, 2015

Unsavable ? Does not compute.

ssjones · Apr 22, 2015

To this point,I believe this one one of the worst I've encountered. The "chair leg" stem features made it even more challenging. This was one of my first restorations.
One thing to remember is that when you remove oxidation, we are removing part of the stem and reducing the original dimensions. This can be minimized, but wear is a factor (only in appearance). I don't think a high level of oxidation would put me off a restoration, unlike broken buttons, holes, etc.

gloucesterman · Apr 23, 2015

I concur. Oxidation can always be overcome. It's the tooth marks that constitutes the problem. But even then it can be overcome. The question, "Is it worth the effort?" A significant pipe, certainly. A pipe of limited vale, maybe not.

menuhin · Apr 23, 2015

Thanks for all the tips from the veteran pipe-smokers restorers, I can see the worry on deep tooth marks which imply real loss of materials.
I am looking at a few stems that has oxidized to ivory color instead of just olive green (perhaps I can hypnotize myself to smoke it as if that is a horn or ivory stem), I hope I can resurrect / rescue / save / restore them to a certain degree.

huntertrw · Apr 23, 2015

ssjones:
What an intriguing GBD, and what a fine job you did in restoring it (especially as an early attempt). Congratulations!

menuhin · Apr 24, 2015

+1 ssjones' example

I don't have a buffer and too many filing tools - the restored stem button looks crisp clear and well defined. And if I were to confront this restoration, I would already be troubled just by the charred rim and the decision of how much to remove and than re-stain.
I asked this because I remembered the word 'irreversible' after reading the blog entry of a forum member a while back about estate pipe guide. And then I also can agree that Ebonite / Vulcanite once oxidized cannot be reversed.

Part 7 (On Evaluating Condition) - The Novice's Guide on How to Buy Estate Pipes

okiescout · Apr 24, 2015

Great job ssjones. What a great looking pipe.

Thanks for the site menuhin, I had not seen it. Great resource.

okiescout · Apr 24, 2015

Great job ssjones. What a great looking pipe.

Thanks for the site menuhin, I had not seen it. Great resource.

xrundog · Apr 24, 2015

I just bought this pipe. Aside from the job taking some time, I don't anticipate having any problems with the stem.

ssjones · Apr 24, 2015

Yep, that should come out nicely. (is that a Chartan?)

jackswilling · Apr 25, 2015

"Unsavable ? Does not compute."
From what I have seen, there is no such pipe/stem in your world. Someday I hope to achieve the same mind-set

xrundog · Apr 25, 2015

Yep, that should come out nicely. (is that a Chartan?)

That be a Parker.

beastkhk · May 2, 2015

I just finished up on one that took a little more than an hour with the magic eraser and then another 10-15 min with micro mesh pads. Felt like forever because when looking at the initial oxidation it didn't look to be in bad shape. Just a stubborn one. (I would say average amount of time I spend is about a half hour with eraser and 10-15 w/ micro mesh)
Luckily it is a beautiful day out so I just sat outside with a cup a tea and bowl of black frigate while applying the elbow grease.

stvalentine · May 2, 2015

I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gentlemen but I had one stem that was hopeless and meanwhile I consider even the biggest trainwreck to be restorable. This particular stem had a very hard oxidation and all sanding or polishing on the bench buffer was invane. I attacked it with alcohol and even cooked it in 60% vinegar acid but to no avail. It must have been to quality of the ebonite which was under par. Fortunately it was not an expensive pipe.... :roll:

Vulcanite stem oxidation: what is totally unsavable?

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