Topping & Refinishing an English Pipe (video set)

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jguss

Lifer
Jul 7, 2013
2,417
6,227
Amazing work as always George. The pipe is drop-dead gorgeous. I’m very glad you’re capturing the magic in a series of videos. I think there are damn few people in the hobby who would be able to intuit what you did.

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,095
Maryland
postimg.cc
Awesome! I skipped ahead to the staining/buffing and picked up some tips immediately, thanks! (catch the rest later this evening).

 

dmcmtk

Lifer
Aug 23, 2013
3,672
1,685
Mike Hagley, 1" glass, good idea. I use a piece of 3/4" hardwood veneered plywood.
George, since you are going to alcohol sand the stummel, why not wipe it down first with alcohol to remove the old top finish, and see how much of the gunk/human detritus is removed and see what finish you actually have to work with? With the straight alcohol sand as shown, you're basically sanding all that crap into the wood grain as the alcohol dissolves it.
The "hard" wax wheel, since you asked, I think your further burnishing the finish after the first buff.
God I'm glad I don't have a buffing wheel, then again the pipes I work on are my own, so I have all the time in the world to hand polish a stummel.
"Tutto fatto a mano"

 
May 8, 2017
1,593
1,627
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
I picked up several refinements to my methods, some of which will be useful in other woodworking projects. The staining method is kind of mind-blowing. I'm familiar with the type of stain or dye that George is using. It's SUPER concentrated and I have never even considered the idea of applying it undiluted. You can't argue with the results!
Thanks once again, George!

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,491
13,920
George, since you are going to alcohol sand the stummel, why not wipe it down first with alcohol to remove the old top finish, and see how much of the gunk/human detritus is removed and see what finish you actually have to work with? With the straight alcohol sand as shown, you're basically sanding all that crap into the wood grain as the alcohol dissolves it.
I used to do it, but stopped after always ending up in the same place anyway (the crap just goes into solution and washes away).

 
M

mothernaturewilleatusallforbreakfast

Guest
Thanks for these videos George. They are very helpful.

 

puffermark

Might Stick Around
Feb 24, 2015
99
45
36
www.viagrasansordonnancefr.com
George, a huge thank you for your generous undertaking. It is very much appreciated.
I'd like to add my voice to those who have asked that you include what may be to you the more mundane aspects of pipe refurbishing. I too have a limited little toolbox of various doodads, to which, thanks to you, I have now added several erasers, emery boards and mouse pads.
I look forward to the next set.

 
May 8, 2017
1,593
1,627
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
Dmcmtk, both are water and alcohol soluble.
It turns out that the StewMac ColorTone and TransTint products are one in the same, with different labels. Perhaps not coincidentally, my most frequently used TransTint dye is their #6001 Honey Amber, which allegedly is the TransTint label for StewMac’s Vintage Amber. So, it turns out that George and I have been using the very same stain/dye, but with different methods of application. The samples shown online for these two stains/dyes look very different, however, with the StewMac ColorTone Vintage Amber looking much more brown. Seeing it being applied in the video, the dye on George’s gloves and on the pipe cleaner looks just like I’m used to with the TransTint. That having been said, if I had neither of these, I’d be getting the StewMac ColorTone Vintage Amber, just to be certain. The TransTint products are available at Woodcraft.
I’m going to give this a shot with one of my lower-grade estates. That way, if my stain isn’t the same, I won’t be making a mess of something valuable.

 

npod

Lifer
Jun 11, 2017
2,942
1,024
These videos are a wonderful boon to the pipe community. Even though I don’t refinish pipes, and send mine to experts to clean, just watching these videos adds depth to my appreciation of the hobby. Thank you!

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,491
13,920
The buffs are a mix of 6" and 8". (No tens except a permanently mounted specialty tenon waxer)
Some have mushroomed/fanned, others have stayed straight. Depends on how they're used, I guess.

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,491
13,920
You didn't indicate if that is what you use, or use isopropyl. People would probably like to know.
Denatured for the win.
Isopropyl contains water & other undesirable stuff; and grain alcohol---while it works fine for pipes---costs over $100/gallon and does nothing better.

 
May 8, 2017
1,593
1,627
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
In your video, you mentioned that the stain you were using was a close match for the stain used by Barling for their high grade straight grain pipes. Do you have a favorite stain for the lower grades of Barling pipes, which I assume are darker?

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,491
13,920
That "antique amber" shade is a match to Barling SG's by happy coincidence. All of the others require blending.

 
May 8, 2017
1,593
1,627
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
Thanks George. I figured that was the case. I think I'll just let myself be satisfied with my Barling's Make lovat as-is. I'll embrace its history! Besides, the inside of the rim is rounded and darkened enough from reaming and scorching that eliminating it could require topping too severely. It's a smoker after all, not a museum piece.

 
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