Tenon snapped on Meerschaum

Tenon looks like it pokes out just enough. Find a screw that is just the right size so as to not stress the shank, dab some superglue on it, screw it in ways and let it dry. Then unscrew the tenon. This should work if it broke off due to snapping and not due to it being gummed up and stuck...
But I would use this as a last resort if no one else has a better idea.

Use a left-hand threaded tap---NOT a tapered screw (it will expand the tube and break the shank)---that's been ground short if necessary. Keep backing in and out to clear the chip. When you reach the end of the threaded portion the tube should unscrew with continued turning.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-thread-taps/=x8sh0l

Send it to Ric at Briarville as he has the tools for the job as well as the correct tenions.

I believe that "georged" above is none other than George Dibos of Precision Pipe Repair so he knows of what he speaks. Maybe flip him a PM.

If the torque of thread cutting isn't enough to break the tenon piece free, slide a cut-to-length piece of slip-fit tubing over the tap so that about 1/2" -- 5/8' of its thread is exposed. When THAT makes contact with the stuck portion 100% of twisting force will be focused on it. (I'm assuming you put the tap in a T-handle or some sort of chuck, so that the tube has something to butt up against on the other end.)
If that doesn't work---meaning it feels like the shank will shatter before the broken tenon piece breaks free---it has either been effectively epoxied in place by smoking tars and age, or it has a left hand thread itself. :lol:
Solvents and meer are a tricky combination. By far the guy who knows the most about meer restorations & repair that I'm aware of is Chuck Gray in Chicago. I'd give him a call if the addition of a slip-over tube doesn't git 'er done.

I have several Meerschaums with that same tenon configuration. I checked, They unscrew counterclockwise so it's probably not a reversed thread.

Is it likely that the tenon is screwed into both the shank and the stem? Or was one made to slide in?

Click to expand...

Good question. Every combination you can think of was used at one time or another by somebody. :lol:
I'm smoking an 1890 GBD as I type that has a bone connector which is glued into the stem, and screws into the shank. (A problematic design because bone is abrasive and wears away the wooden threads over time, resulting in over-turning / improper alignment when tight. Needless to say, it gets taken apart only rarely).
Your pipe could be the same design, or could use a Jobey Link sort of connector, where the stem is a push fit onto a smooth barrel whose hidden half is screwed into the shank. (Think the reverse of today's common push-fit design.)
The frozen piece in your pipe's shank could have been deliberately glued, I suppose.
If you try the slip-over tube and the piece still refuses to budge, contact Chuck Gray. On a wooden pipe you'd have several options including drilling it out, but meer is much softer than briar and all manner of Bad Stuff could happen very quickly if you didn't know EXACTLY what you were doing. (And still might even if you did. It's treacherously unpredictable stuff when old and dry.)