So, you want to start restoring pipes?

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kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
Recently when reading through the forums I came across a beautiful restoration job by forum member danielplainview of a Commodore 31. I love to see his restorations because he always does such a great job, but what caught my attention was a comment left by another member, stanlaurel, which read, “This is really an awesome skill to be able to do a restoration like this. If someone wanted to begin to develop this talent, where would they start?” For whatever reason that struck a chord with me so I thought I would share my thoughts.
First, let me say I know what works for me so everything contained here is just one man’s opinion. I do not pretend to know how to do everything and I learn something new every single day. Some of you may have different thoughts or ways of doing things, and that is OK.
Having said all of that I can safely say that Stan, you are in the right place. There are a lot of people here with a lot of knowledge and experience that are willing to share, myself included. By being a member of this group I can tell you that you are a member of one of the finest groups of pipe smokers, historians, collectors, carvers, repair, and restoration communities that exist and most everyone is willing to share and help.
If you really want to try your hand at restoring a pipe, first you need to get a pipe. Look around at flea markets, antique stores, and second hand shops. I find a gracious plenty that way. You can also find some on Ebay, but that is a whole topic of discussion to its self. Don’t spend a lot of money on that first pipe. You want something that is going clean up nice, but it is still your first attempt.
When I was learning to work on pipes, I had a cheap little pipe (that I still have) that I nicknamed “Test Bed”. I learned to do a lot with that little pipe. The proper way to clean a pipe, how to sand and refinish a pipe bowl, how to rusticate a pipe bowl, how to replace a tenon, how to sleeve a shank, and the list goes on and on. That little pipe looks nothing like it did when I originally acquired it, but every time I learned a new skill I always tried it on that pipe first. It sits above my workbench as a kind of “here is what your first attempt looked like” reminder.
The second piece of advice I would give is don’t go out and spend a lot of money on tools. Truth is you can do a lot of cleaning and restoration with a very small investment. Sure, some specialty tools, like a buffer, are nice to have, but you can get amazing results with just basic hand tools and a little work.
Check out some videos on Youtube. There are several video series out there dealing with pipe restoration. Smokingpipes.com even put some out there are couple of years ago that showed how they were cleaning up estate pipes to sell at the time. Some videos are better than others and you will quickly learn how to spot the better made ones, but you can pick up something from each of them.
I also suggest you check out rebournpipes.com that Steve Lang maintains. There are lot of articles on different pipe restorations and techniques there. I always managed to pick up something when I take time to look around the site. I am sure there are a few things there for you to look at.
Finally, just ask. Once you get your project pipe, take a couple of pics, post them here on the forum and ask, “What do I do next?” I am sure you will have several people willing to share their thoughts and suggestions with you. If you run into a stumbling block, just ask. I have used this forum and rebornpipes.com as a resource more than once when I run across something that I have never seen before. Chances are that if it is happening to you, it has happened to some else too and they may have some thoughts on how you can best handle the situation.
I hope this is someway helps people who are thinking about trying a restoration. If you work slowly, ask for help when you are not sure, and pay attention I have no doubt that almost anyone can successfully restore a pipe to fine smoking condition. I must warn you however, that it is addictive.
Wes

www.rebuiltbriars.com

 

jackswilling

Lifer
Feb 15, 2015
1,777
24
It is nice that members here, who are professional restorers, are willing to help with pipe restoration advice. This topic is most interesting to me but for now I will use a pro when I get some estate pipes. Wes at http://www.rebuiltbriars.com seems like a great guy and I like what he offers on his site. Thank you Wes for the info/advice in this thread.

John

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
Well said! I just picked up a buffer but I used wet sand paper, a beeswax and oil mixture, and plain olive oil to clean up bowls and stems before I made the investment. I sill need to order some caranuba but I probably did 50 pipes before the buffer by hand.
The buffer is a different beast in all together. Way too easy to launch a stem or bowl if you don't know how to use one.

 

kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
Jack, thanks for the nice words, they are truly appreciated. I honestly look at pipe repair as somewhat of a dying skill and I am always happy to pass along what knowledge I have on the subject.
Gambit, I am sure you were able to get some amazing results just working by hand. I know exactly what you mean about the buffer. I actually padded the work surface and the "backstop" behind my buffing station for when a bowl or stem gets launched. It has been my experience that no matter how long you have been using a buffer, every once in a while something happens and it will pull whatever you are working on right out of your hand.

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
I agree but those who are left are really helpful. I live within fairly close to two very well know pipe repair shops. I take some work to them but sometimes I just go up there to ask questions or buy parts. Those guys have never had a problem showing me a thing or two in their shops. Neither are close enough to apprentice under sadly. This forum has been a wealth of information. I'm still working on getting that high shine on pipe bowls.
Before I got the Buffer I would use soft wheels on a dremel from time to time. It worked pretty well.

 

kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
As I am sure you already know, you have to be careful with a Dremel.

I have a basic formula when it comes to buffing a great shine onto a pipe that works pretty well for me.
First, I use low RPM, but high surface footage. In other words, use a slow motor (1750 RPM or slightly lower) and a very big wheel. I like to use 8" wheels and have used 10" wheels in the past.
Second, don't put a whole lot of wax on the wheel. It only takes a couple of seconds of rubbing the wax against a rotating wheel to get enough on it. Remember, you can always add a little more wax if you use all that is loaded on the wheel, but it is hard to take it off effectively. I have found that if you use too much wax, it leaves the extra wax , as a fine powder, on the surface of the pipe. As you buff over it, it lays down more layers and makes it harder to get off. I had a friend of mine bring me a pipe he had buffed complaining he couldn't get it to shine that this very thing had happened to. I got the wax off he had put on and then started re-waxing. He was amazed at how little wax I used and the shine I was able to get.
Third, after waxing buff with clean, loose (not sewn), flannel wheel. The pipe will have a nice shine right after waxing, but you can buff that shine to an even higher gloss using a clean wheel after putting the wax on it.

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
That's good to know. My buffer is a single speed though at 3400. I'm also using bees wax because I have a 5 pound block. I'm sure caranuba gives a much better shine.
I've used a dremel with a sanding or stone bit to knock down cake when the cake is so thick my reamer won't fit. Then I smooth it out with 240 grit paper. There should be a sticky on materials needed to start restoration.

 

kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
Yeah, once you move over to carnauba, you will probably see a difference.

 
Mar 30, 2014
2,853
78
wv
Thanks for the kind words.
I started out buying cheap beaters to practice on. (Still do) I definitely think it's a labor of love. It's something I enjoy doing very much. It's a way to relax and unwind, never rushing. If I'm out antiquing, sometimes I'll buy the worst pipe in bunch just to see what I can do with it. Not much is needed to start, but the sky is the limit if you desire. Practice makes perfect. Learning the techniques that work best for you, along with lots of patients goes a long way.
Restoring a pipe to its former glory gives you a connection with it more than any new pipe you can purchase. Some of my favorite pipes are ones I bought for $5 that had been left for dead.

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
I made the mistake of having too many pipes to do. I had 15 on my bench at one point. It started to feel like work so I had to step away for a few days. I know not to make that mistake again

 

joshb83

Can't Leave
Feb 25, 2015
310
2
Such a great post! I'm sure lots of guys out there have considered it, but just weren't willing to make the jump into the unknown, myself included. I'm sure it's not simple, but it seems a little bit moreso than before thanks for the insight!

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
It really is pretty simple to clean up an old pipe. When you start finding damage is when it gets tricky.

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
Good advice on going easy with applying Carnuba wax to the the wheel. You can apply all the Tripoli and white diamond compound that you wish as it won't do any harm, but EASY on the wax as it doesn't take much at all. Also, a very light touch with the Carnuba impregnated wheel. If you feel that you applied too much it's a good idea to invest in a wheel rake. Granted, that's not what it's for, but it can help if you realize that too much wax is on the wheel.
As for buffing that is where it can get dicey. I used to make knives and the most dangerous step was the buffing process. One small slip and you have a large piece of shrapnel flying about. I once had the tip of a knife come loose from my hand and pierce my shoe, just missing my toe, and causing a 1/4' chip in the cement floor! It's when you become comfortable in what you're doing that accidents can happen. Stay alert, and go slowly.
Also, when it comes to applying Carnuba wax it's best, if at all possible, to have the ability to crank down your motor to no more than 1,725 RPM (or even lower for ease of application). High RPM is not all that good when it comes to applying wax.

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
Thats good to know about the speed. I found a router speed control I think I'm going to buy to see if it will let me control the speed of my buffer

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
^^ No, something like that cannot be used on a buffing/grinder motor as it's nothing more than a rheostat which simply reduces the voltage output. You'll end up with poor and irregular speed and the possibility of burning out the motor. What is needed for buffing/sanding is a three phase motor matched up with a proper VFD if you wish to have the ability to change the RPM, and or simply acquire a motor that is rated at 1725 RPM.

 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
Fair enough. Thanks for saving me from toasting my new buffer. I'll have to start hunting for a slower one.

 

kf4bsb

Starting to Get Obsessed
Mar 23, 2013
166
0
Gambit, you really just need a motor. I know plenty of people who have gone to scrap or junk yards who were able to find a working electric motor rated at 1725 RPM for very cheap. Then all you need is an adaptor sleeve and an arbor and you have your buffing station. You should be able to find the parts you need for the motor at caswellplating.com If you don't see what you need on their web site, give them a call.

 

mcitinner1

Lifer
Apr 5, 2014
4,043
24
Missouri
Phil you are right about the variable voltage control being the wrong thing to use on a grinder motor. I tried the router speed control, ($40) and then threw money at a variac, ($210) and neither one gave any real speed control. Lucky I could return both. I asked Zack24 what I should use and he sent me this link.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Drives/GS1_%28120_-z-_230_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control%29
For me this doesn't help because I'm no electrician and can't afford to hire one.

 

phil67

Lifer
Dec 14, 2013
2,052
7
Phil you are right about the variable voltage control being the wrong thing to use on a grinder motor. I tried the router speed control, ($40) and then threw money at a variac, ($210) and neither one gave any real speed control. Lucky I could return both. I asked Zack24 what I should use and he sent me this link.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Drives/GS1_%28120_-z-_230_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control%29
For me this doesn't help because I'm no electrician and can't afford to hire one.
Yep, that is indeed an ideal setup and exactly what I use.

This is the DRIVE I have wired to this MOTOR.
The wiring and programming can seem quite daunting, but it’s not really all that bad and this is coming from someone who knows next to nothing when it comes to electricity and needs pictorial instructions when changing a light bulb. If by chance you decide to get the above setup I’d be more than happy to walk you through the wiring step by step.

 
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