Scorch Marks On The Rim & Plateau
Is there any non-invasive way to remove scorch marks from the inside rim and plateau
of a lightly smoked pipe? They do not appear to be very heavy, but it is hard to tell when trying to make a visual assesment of them.
"I don't always smoke a pipe, but when I do I am even more interesting.
.....................Keep smoking my friends..........................."
Saliva, cotton swabs, and plenty of elbow grease will be a start.
If that doesn't do the job, that is the height of my expertise so you'll have to seek another opinion.
Ill second the method of q-tips and good ol' spit. It works well.
Q-tips and saliva . I rub it with the Q-Tip while smoking and after .
"A pipe is the fountain of contemplation, the source of pleasure, the companion of the wise; and the man who smokes, thinks like a philosopher and acts like a Samaritan."
-Edward George Bulwer-Lytton, 1st Baron Lytton
I know there is not much you can do with estates that already have some marks on the rim, but it pays to be very very careful not to scorch the pipe.
That may seem obvious, but it is easy to get careless - especially with matches.
It's one of those "ounce of prevention" things. It is a pain to have to rub off those burnt tars all the time.
If you keep doing it regularly, however, it shouldn't become a big problem.
Tars and carbon build up can be cleaned; but burnt wood can can only be removed. I think it's called "topping" a rim.
Now, I'm thinking that perhaps even tars and oils can so deeply penetrate and stain the rim that one would be unable
to remove them without sanding.
I find myself sitting idly on the line dividing past and future,
as if I could kill time without injuring eternity. -- Thoreau
Alcohol, spit and elbow grease can remove almost any tars, but actual burned wood (as someone noted) can only be sanded away. I've used micro-mesh pads to do this before, but that could be difficult with a plateau top if the scorching is down in the grooves as well.
EDIT: Didn't see you there cortezattic. Didn't mean to repeat your suggestions.
If a person were patient, careful, and gentle, I think he could probably use an assortment of jewelers files to top the burned portion of a plateaued pipe, without doing much to change the line or appearance of the pipe.
He'd have to be careful and slow, but I've done far more delicate work with wood than that using the same type of tools and had great results.
Keep in mind that alcohol will probably adversely affect the finish if the rim is painted, shellacked, or varnished. Alcohol can also dilute the stain, especially if used often and/or aggressively.
That said, I use alcohol occasionally (most of my pipes are just stained), and more often on plateaus because they're a real PITA to clean; I follow it up with a little mineral oil on a clean rag.
Some puffers use wax, I don't. Commercial pipe buffing clothes by Dunhill and others are available, work well and these cloths last a relatively long time when used as the final touch to cleaning the wood.
If the wood is truly scorched, you can't remove that without sanding and restaining. Many estate pipes have a heavy build-up of tars/carbon, etc. that can be removed, sometimes leaving no marks at all on the briar.
Not really an answer to the original question, but since the subject of 'topping' came up, Al's friend Steve at Reborn Pipes has an excellent overview.
I have topped a couple using his guide, and the results were nice!
I take reasonable care of my pipes.. but, I'm not loosing sleep over scorch marks..I buy them to smoke them. Some of my best smokers look like they have been in a fire.
I Enjoy Aromatics
I Enjoy Peterson Pipes
Spit and a good rag. Water would work too.
If you can't pack it, light it, and smoke it then why do it. It's a dieing art that must be rekindled in all of us as fortold by our forefathers.
Words to live by for all pipe smokers.
Thanks Guys, Really appreciate the suggestions. Had a stuborn one, but its gone now.
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