Restoring Bead Lines

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Sep 18, 2015
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I have a Comoy's bulldog from the late 40's - mid 50's that has part of the bead line worn off, it's about 3/8 of an inch long. I can still see where the bottom line was, barely the top line is gone completely. I was thinking about using a piece of tape for a strait edge and going over it with a sharp chisel. Has anybody done this? How did it turn out? Should I just leave it alone?

This has been my first attempt at restoring an estate and I have already made a couple of mistakes, I lost the C on the stem, and when I re-waxed it I managed to get some wax in the chamber, didn't taste too good when I fired it up the first time!

 

skaukatt

Can't Leave
Found these for you I don't know if it applies to your situation but pretty fascinating repairs.
Good luck!
http://rebornpipes.com/2015/10/25/digby-9438-bead-repairrefinish/
http://rebornpipes.com/2015/06/24/bead-repair-on-a-baby-rhodesian/

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,093
Maryland
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A few restorers here having been doing bead-line repairs with excellent success (these are very experienced guys). I've done a number of restorations in the past five years, but this is the first time that I've attempted that particular process. I was pleased with the results. For a more expensive pipe, I'd seek out a finer saw blade for recutting the bead line. Details of the repair and more pictures are in the blog link below.
http://rebornpipes.com/2015/10/25/digby-9438-bead-repairrefinish/
digby_9438-2.jpg


digby_9438_resto-2.jpg


 
Sep 18, 2015
3,253
41,957
@ Skaukatt, Thanks for the links, the first one I had seen before, good stuff. Unfortunately it's not a chipped line on this pipe, the lines are completely worn off in one spot and would need to be recut.

 
Jan 4, 2015
1,858
11
Massachusetts
A word of caution, both Al and Dave are very experienced and talented restorers. That job involves the right tools and technique. It's not something I would recommend for a person new to restoring unless you really don't care about the outcome and are just looking for the experience. There are probably better practice pipes out there than a vintage Comoy. Set that one aside and pick up a few beaters, work on them and then go back to it when you have developed the skills to do the repair properly. Without the right skills you can make mistakes that can't be undone. Just my .02 cents worth.

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
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Member daveg is the restorer who inspired me to take a shot at that repair.
Cutting in new bead line a worn bowl would be tricky. I'd check with George Dibos, I bet he's done it before.

 
Sep 18, 2015
3,253
41,957
@Gloucesterman, I agree that's good advice, this is not something that I am planning on trying tomorrow, I'm just hoping for some ideas right now so that I can decide if it is within my skill set. I do have several 'practice' pipes that are either broken or cracked.

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
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13,920
I'd check with George Dibos, I bet he's done it before.
Indeed. And it is a deceptively tricky business to get right (i.e. invisibly or nearly so).
Because no two rings are the same in cross section---different angle V's, round bottom slots, square bottom slots, etc.---often a specialized tool must be fabricated to get a cross-sectional match. Do NOT mess with a saw blade that has any amount of set (sideways spread) to the teeth. A disaster is guaranteed. A Japanese
saw will work if the blade is the right thickness, though, and the ring is a parallel-sided cut.
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/12F24/Shinwa-421S095-Japanese-Kugihiki-Flush-Cutting-Hand-Saw.aspx
For "V" rings there are several types of fine-tooth (#6) triangular jewelers' files that can work if a matching profile can be found. Otto Frei in Oakland, CA has a good selection of files.
In every case, slowly EXTENDING the existing groove through bald/damaged areas is what you want. Never try to "go in from the side."
Lacking either of those ready made tools, you are basically forced to make your own from a 1" X 2" piece of hard sheet metal such as a small cabinet scraper or piece cut from a spackling/putty knife that's the correct thickness. Cut teeth into one of the long edges with a carbide rotary tool.
Above all, when cutting the ring be patient. There is no rewind button. :D

 

georged

Lifer
Mar 7, 2013
5,491
13,920
Obviously I hit the quote button when I meant italics, and the !@#$^%&*!! edit-timer-of-doom door slammed down before I could fix it. Sorry.
(Damn, I hate that thing. :evil: )

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,323
11,093
Maryland
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"measure twice, cut once" applies!
I was thinking nut files, but those buggers are expensive for such limited use.

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/Double-edge_Nut_Files.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2016-03-gp&gclid=CNLXy7XJrssCFYaQHwodrrwElg
Double-edge_Nut_Files.jpg

These rods are cheaper, but I'm not sure they'll work well (item should be held in a vise). I have a set of soft jaws for my bench vise. I may pop for a set at $16.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GeetarGizmos-6-STRING-GUITAR-NUT-SLOTTING-SAW-RODS-Slot-Set-File-Luthier-Tool-/131082180112

 

zack24

Lifer
May 11, 2013
1,726
2
I was thinking nut files, but those buggers are expensive for such limited use.
...I always love spending huge amounts of money for a limited use, simple task...

 

jefff

Lifer
May 28, 2015
1,915
6
Chicago
I just brought it up because info a little lutherie. So I have nut files
Maybe you could find a luthier in your hood to take a whack at it

 
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