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Pointers please - re-staining briar

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zanthal

zanthal

Lifer
Dec 3, 2011
1,835
1
Pleasanton, CA
Here's the pipe, an LJ Peretti:
3aA8Y.jpg

While I'm pretty sure I could Google search an answer pretty quickly, I would like to hear it from the voice of experience (if anyone is so inclined).
I want to surface sand this pipe and re-stain it, maybe even apply some sort of appropriate surface coating, if that's something that's considered 'kosher' by pipe crafters.
I'm specifically curious as to what grit sand paper is needed, and what sort of polish is the best to use.
I also know practically nothing about stains, what sort of stains is used to achieve each of the colorations you usually see?
I usually see bright red, dark red, and a couple of shades of orange. I know that the briar itself will effect the color of the stain, but am I right, are different stains used for each end color?
Happy Puffing and thanks in advance, y'all.

 
ebklodt

ebklodt

Might Stick Around
Nov 9, 2012
99
0
Most pipe makers use Fieblings leather dye.
Most go to 600 grit but just to be safe and just remove the stain I would go 800 and take your time. Maybe a padded backing to make sure you use a light touch.
The Beall buffing system will work wonders on the finish. Its a red tripoli, then whith jewlers rouge, and finally carnuba wax.
Good Luck!

 
taerin

taerin

Lifer
May 22, 2012
1,851
1
I don't think 600 grit does a very good job for finishing up pipes, all car shops like Autozone have micromesh sandpaper that goes quite a ways higher, I would say go with 600, then 1,500, then 3,000 to really get a nice looking pipe. It will come out looking like glass.

 
gmwolford

gmwolford

Lifer
Jul 26, 2012
1,355
5
WV, USA
Maybe I do overkill, but I've been happy with alcohol or acetate to remove the finish that may be left then sand with 400/600/800/1000/2000/3000 then buff. If you have no wheel Formby's paste wax does a real nice job but a lot of guys use other pipe-specific or automotive carnuba wax.
Fiebing's leather dye does a great job. But Kiwi shoe polish, your choice of colors, also does well; flame it in just like the dye.
Good luck and share your results!

 
fnord

fnord

Lifer
Dec 28, 2011
2,746
8
Topeka, KS
Zan:
Fiebings leather dye is definitely the way to go and do flame it to set the color. I'll also second the various stain removal procedures already mentioned and also toss in an overnight Isopropyl alcohol soak.
If you don't have a buffing wheel you'll get great results with a hand rub of Halcyon II wax. The maker told me it does well for both smooth finishes and blasted/rusticated pipes.
I'd also suggest investing in a set of Micromesh pads for stem work. A little effort with those beauties and you can damn well use a polished stem as a shaving mirror.
Fnord

 
gwtwdbss

gwtwdbss

Lifer
Jun 13, 2012
2,945
16
53
Mike, I got my Micro Mesh from eBay but I believe it can found at most wood working supply stores. It will make the briar as smooth as glass. Also for the staining and leather dye, I heard these guys are a pretty good place to do business with:
Pipe Makers Emporium - Finishing Products
They have a decent variety of leather dye to get the effect you want. I have used Kiwi Leather Dye and it works pretty well but you only see it in black and I think. They may have a few other colors but it is not leather dye. It is some sort of scuff treatment and has wax and other ingredients in it that may mess up your stain job. As stated above Fiebings is the good stuff and I heard it is what a lot of the pro's use.

 
lonestar

lonestar

Lifer
Mar 22, 2011
2,854
161
Edgewood Texas
600 is actually as high as you want to go. You can sand higher (and a few pipemakers do) but you will seal the pores of the wood making it difficult to hold any dye. Also at higher grits any tiny dent or ding later on will be very visible. The real key is very thorough sanding at the lower grits.

Fiebings dye will work well.

 
gwtwdbss

gwtwdbss

Lifer
Jun 13, 2012
2,945
16
53
600 is actually as high as you want to go.
Click to expand...
Very good point. I know the Micro Mesh is great for stems but I can see your point how that would seal the pores in Briar.

 
taerin

taerin

Lifer
May 22, 2012
1,851
1
Because of this post and lonestar's comment I am starting to sand my pipe with 600 grit sandpaper and boy is lonestar correct about 600 grit! All this grain is starting to really pop out because the stain which has gone really bad over time was so dark I could not see any of the grain hardly. It has beautiful birdseye... Will posts before and after pics when done. It really needs a good deal of silver plating, but I can't figure out a good way to do it for cheap, mabey that will come later (big silver windcap & band both lost a lot of the plating on it from age and abuse).

 
hfearly

hfearly

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 11, 2012
822
2
Canada
I usually start staining and sanding at 220 grit and work my way through 300 and 400 grit. At lower grits the stain penetrates a bit deeper and it will show you quite well where you still have scratches in the surface that you need to sand out with a higher grain.
I wouldn't stain after 600 grit - chance are you are just pushing paint on the very surface that will land on your fingers when handling the pipe later on. Brown Tripoli and White Diamond are the equivalents to 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper so when you polish off the stain using your buffing wheel there isn't really a need to get at it with micromesh.

 
gmwolford

gmwolford

Lifer
Jul 26, 2012
1,355
5
WV, USA
I learned a lot in this thread! I'm sanding way too fine and not getting good penetration of the stain. I actually wondered why so much seemed to be buffing off; now I know! I have an old Master Craft I'm going to be working on tomorrow and trying many of the "new" tricks I'm learning. Will share a pic or two when I get it done.
And thanks again for all the hints/tips, guys. :clap:

 
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