Over reamed and out of round
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I use a variable Dremel "Stylus" when needed, to remove cake if necessary. Use low speed, work carefully and start with a moderately "fine" sleeve. Watch the depth as the screw will most likely do a bit of damage. At some point you will need a knife and great patience if you need to work the bottom of the bowl.
The bowl on the right looks to be thin as it is. I'd be inclined to simply accept the deformity, all things considered, on that one. Particularly if the pipe is for personal use and not resale.
The bowl on the right looks to be thin as it is. I'd be inclined to simply accept the deformity, all things considered, on that one. Particularly if the pipe is for personal use and not resale.
Thanks for the input. They're late-60s kaywoodies. I got them under 10 a pipe with shipping. I might just clean em up and re-list them as is. I'm sure they still smoke ok. This is why I always take a top down picture of a pipe when I sell it. You know exactly what your getting.
The one on the right is bad. The other two appear fixable. A Dremel can make things worse in a hurry. Don't do that. Fold up apiece of 220 grit sand paper to fit and carefully sand around the inner bowl rim. Stop often and wipe it off to check your work. Just getting rid of the jagged edges will be a big improvement. Even if you can't make it perfectly even, once the pipe is smoked and the rim is blackened some it will be a lot less noticeable.
I say the right one is bad because to make it even, you will end up with a really thin rim. 2 out of 3 ain't bad.
I say the right one is bad because to make it even, you will end up with a really thin rim. 2 out of 3 ain't bad.
I would do what cleaning they need and try them out. They don't look that bad in your pics, for what I can see.
I have the same issue, bought a few lots off eBay from the same seller... sold off the husbands pipes (hopefully he knew about it) and nice pipes. All look to have been well cared for. I knew about the tooth damage on the stem (guy REALLY bit down on these bits) but what I didn't expect was inside the bowl.
Seems fine at first glance, but about half-way down there are some good deep gouges. Maybe used a knife with a curved tip?
Proper reaming helped... but now debating my next move. I saw on RebornPipes for cracks he used JBWeld, but, 50/50 on that idea. Apparently when cured it's non-toxic, but, from what I've read, pipes hit a peak sometimes of around 650C degrees and JBWEld I think is only good for something like 400C with a peak of 500C?
Found this thread actually looking for ideas. :D
Seems fine at first glance, but about half-way down there are some good deep gouges. Maybe used a knife with a curved tip?
Proper reaming helped... but now debating my next move. I saw on RebornPipes for cracks he used JBWeld, but, 50/50 on that idea. Apparently when cured it's non-toxic, but, from what I've read, pipes hit a peak sometimes of around 650C degrees and JBWEld I think is only good for something like 400C with a peak of 500C?
Found this thread actually looking for ideas. :D
Cracks are something entirely different. Gouges won't make the pipe fall apart. Well, probably not anyway. Gouges in the bowl have two fixes.
1. Pipe mud. ashes and water. Mix to paste, apply with a popsicle stick or something. Neatness does not count as it will soon be covered with ash and cake. Let dry, smoke the pipe.
2. Smoke the pipe and let it cake up. Later, even the cake.
I like #2. But I can't see the gouges to really say.
1. Pipe mud. ashes and water. Mix to paste, apply with a popsicle stick or something. Neatness does not count as it will soon be covered with ash and cake. Let dry, smoke the pipe.
2. Smoke the pipe and let it cake up. Later, even the cake.
I like #2. But I can't see the gouges to really say.
A small cohort of Forums members, including me, wipe out bowls after every smoke, retaining a good carbon layer but not building cake. This maintains bowls in the round into the third and forth decade. For resto men, reamers have their place. But I have never owned a reamer and sort of regard them as not so much a smoker's friend. I understand most pipe smokers value reamers and take the time to learn to use them, cautiously and carefully on the pipes they smoke, but it appears that they are far too much fun for the beginner to use, and do a lot of damage to many pipes. The photo with this post being exhibit A. It would put me on a bad mood to regularly smoke pipes so gleefully abused. Let's not look at the scorching on some of my rims, which seems to me just affectionate wear.
Use the paper towel method it works . But for those pipes try these or something like them . http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/flap-sanding-wheels-mounted-flap-sanding-wheels-1-4-inch-shank-1-inch-diameter.html
A proper sized dowel rod with 220 grit paper mounted in a lathe running at slow steady speed with little pressure will make them round, if you've a bit of handiness. It won't get rid of the over-reaming ( briar doesn't grow back ) but it will make the pipes a little easier on the eye.
On cases like these I have used a cone shaped abrasive wheel in a drill press. Use a slow speed and fix the height of the drill. You can produce a slightly beveled inner edge which will soften the out of round. Just lift the bowl into the spinning cone carefully checking the progress often. Take only what you need to. I had a pipe that looked like it had been reamed with a chainsaw and it fixed the problem. You will have to re-stain But it works.
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