New resto guy needs to get schooled

I ran into something while putting a coat of carnuba wax on an estate pipe bowl. While putting the first coat down, I noticed some areas on the briar that are a lighter color than the rest of it. I thought it might just be the wax clouding up in areas. I know clouding can be a part of the waxing process so I continued around the bowl until I felt I had a sufficient amount of wax on it. After the initial coat I began with my finishing wheel to really spread the carnuba around and eventually got it to a nice shine that I was happy with. Problem is, these cloudy and lighter areas were still there. Only now, they are shiny too. This pissed me off. After my frustration subsided (anger and frustration seem to be a big part of my learning process) I asked myself, "Why would these lighter cloudy areas remain on my pipe after all my hard work?" That's when a voice rose up from nowhere ( it was my own voice) and said, "It's the heat." A theory was born and I will share it with you now. My theory is this; after a pipe is smoked for a while, the heat from the burning tobacco can cause the finish on it to be soaked t into the briar. Especially in areas where the heat is concentrated. This can leave areas of discoloration that can not just be buffed out. I remember some of you folks discussing leather dyes that you use on briar. Now, I realize that sometimes we want to change the stain on a pipe because we want it to be a different color. I'm thinking you folks might use it because you run into this issue of dicoloration often. My question is; 1) Is my theory correct? And 2) As pipe restorers, do we run into this issue enough to warrant my going out and purchasing a bunch of this leather dye that is discussed? I have 70 or so pipes left to restore so if I need to spend a little scratch on my hobby, I don't mind. Please enlighten the new guy. Thanks for reading.

Dave, Posting pics from my mobile is impossible. I'll do it when I can.
I do think George hit the nail on the head though. The finish looks both uneven and faded. The best answers I've ever got in life were the pithy answers. George, you're the man. Thanks.
So, my motor is 1750 rpm. I used a hard sewn wheel to apply the wax after using white compound to shine it up. Clean flannel wheel to bring the wax to a shine. On this one I just gave the bowl a hard rub with a cotton cloth and a little spit to get the dust off of it.
Any guidence on my buffing methods will be appreciated. The pithier the better.

Is 1750 rpm really to fast? I learned how to buff on this motor and it's been a good speed for me. It's actually an old motor from around the 1960's that a buddy of mine picked up for me at a flea market. I'm sure it's a bit slower than 1750 but the old info plate on it says it runs at that speed. It's the best $5 I ever spent.

I haven't yet found a reason to use red compound on a bowl. I'm sure the red makes short work of any nomenclature that's stamped into the briar. The white stuff has been good to me for getting a nice shine.

I'm amassing quite a collection of buffing wheels. The ones that can be purchased at Harbor Freight do the job. They have a thin work area and I wish I could put two or three of them together to get a larger surface but the wheels aren't uniform in size so I deal with the inch of work space for now. Those Beal buffing wheels look pretty sweet. I have to pay some bills before I can properly explain that purchase to wifey without seeming irresponsible and irrational.

Thank you gents. I appreciate you folks taking the time to give your input. Around where I live I can't go to my local B&M shop and talk about this sort of stuff. Most people are there for cigars and the few pipe smokers I have run into are all about buying and smoking pipes. Starting a conversation about restoring an old pipe might get someone intrigued for a second but the fascination quickly fades and we start talking about TV or the weather. I hate f'n television.

Ssjones, I remember an essay on rebornpipes that included this plastic disc method, or something close to it. You wrote it a while back. I think in that particular essay you made the disc and glued Micro-mesh to it to get the oxidation off the flat part of a stem fitting where it meets the shank. That was a good read. If you can post that link again, I'd like to re-read it. In the case you mention above, are you putting the disc on, assembling the pipe and then wet sanding the stem and shank at the same time in order to remove the same amount of material from both parts? I'm assuming this is to keep the flow from stem to shank? Anyway, if you could explain this in a little more detail, that would be great.
Stvalentine, I remember you fixed an old Dunhill that was burned through by making a plug for the hole out of another piece of briar. If you can link that up in this thread, I'd love to read that one again too. That resto / rescue made you one of my heroes.
I'll tell you, a lot of you folks on here are like the Jimi Hendrix's of pipe resurection. You make it look like it's easy.