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Need Help with Glued Tenon!!

(19 posts)
  1. deleon

    deleon

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    I bought a few tobacco pipes at an antique store and when I was getting ready to clean the pipes the tenon broke off from the stem. I noticed on the tenon and mortise there was some glue residue. I think the previous owner glued the broken tenon to the mortise. I tried using a screw to pull out the tenon but no luck. Can anyone give me some advice on removing a broken tenon stuck in the mortise?

    Edited by jvnshr: Title capitalization.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  2. cosmicfolklore

    Cosmic

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    Take a hammer and smash the stummel site of the mortise. Your tenon shouldn't be injured at all by this.

    Michael
    Posted 1 year ago #
  3. nevadablue

    nevadablue

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    I think I would carefully drill the tenon, using small to larger bits. Keep working until there is a thin shell of the tenon in the mortise. Then maybe you can get the remnant out. Solvent or heat may help, depending on the type of glue. You may be lucky and the glue will let loose after drilling.
    Then either a new stem fitted to the mortise, or install a delrin tenon. That piece will go into the drilled out stem and become a regular push tenon in the shank mortise.

    ---
    Ken
    Posted 1 year ago #
  4. paulie66scandinavian

    Paul

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    Nevada: This is the way I went once and it worked out nicely,but eventually I got to get a brand new replacement stem, all other options seemed to be to laborous and time consuming practice.

    Paul The Scandinavian'
    Posted 1 year ago #
  5. cossackjack

    cossackjack

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    1. Try putting it in the freezer for an hour to three; then try the screw-assisted extraction. If it is only stuck & not glued, it may break free.
    2. Per Ken's suggestion, apply heat (hair dryer, heat gun on low, or microwave in 5-15 second bursts [provided there is no metal on or in the pipe]) to soften or melt the glue.

    Good luck.

    Edit: Just noticed that this is my 666th post!

    "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.
    Specialization is for insects!" - Robert Heinlein
    Posted 1 year ago #
  6. nevadablue

    nevadablue

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    Post again quick Jack!

    Posted 1 year ago #
  7. rdpowell

    rdpowell

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    If the tenon is indeed glued in the mortise you might be able to heat it enough with a heat gun be careful not to burn or bubble any of the finish and use a drywall screw tightened in it to pull it out. Freezing is also a good way if it's not glued in too good. Drilling it out I would leave to someone that repairs pipes, to easy to over drill or be off center. You make the mortise too big and you'll have another problem.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  8. georged

    georged

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    It's unlikely the tenon itself was actually glued in the mortise. Even if someone tried to do it with a wicking glue, the fit is usually so tight that wicking doesn't happen.

    There's a much greater chance that the pipe was dropped, the owner couldn't remove the tenon, and so just tried to glue the stem back together "as is" so to speak, with a drop of cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. superglue).

    If so, there's probably a fine ring of glue on the wall of the mortise now blocking the easy extraction of the tenon. A ridge.

    Any sort of screw, drywall or otherwise runs a significant chance of cracking the shank. Screw threads are designed to either fit a threaded hole or impress themselves into the sides of a smooth hole with leverage and outward pressure. Outward pressure that a pipe shank isn't designed to withstand.

    The only safe way to do it is with a tap. It doesn't create grooves/indentations with pressure, but cuts them (removes material).

    The procedure is to thread the tap into the tenon completely, center it vertically over a properly sized hole in a solid horizontal surface, and attach a slide hammer to it.

    One solid whack and it's out, every time. (All force is axial, so as long as the end of the shank was kept flat and centered over the hole, the stummel will never be damaged.)

    .


    Dogs live such short lives... and spend most it waiting for us to come home
    Posted 1 year ago #
  9. nevadablue

    nevadablue

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    Nice setup George, thanks for showing that.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  10. jpmcwjr

    jpmcwjr

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    You'll need a new stem in any event, why risk removing it yourself when a pro will do it as he prepares to fit the pipe with a new stem?

    I know that you believe you understood what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
    Posted 1 year ago #
  11. mikethompson

    mikethompson

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    I'm inclined to agree with you jpm, is this a pipe you are refurbishing or did you just take it apart for giggles and noticed it was glued?

    Your level of commitment to the pipe should dictate how much time (and money) you spend on it.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  12. deleon

    deleon

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    Thanks everyone for the advice, I'm going to try putting the pipe in the freezer for a few hours and see if that works, if not then I'll try using heat to loosen it up. Hopefully one of these will work. I'll keep you guys posted

    Posted 1 year ago #
  13. jpmcwjr

    jpmcwjr

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    What then?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  14. paulie66scandinavian

    Paul

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    Today I had one of those horrible days when I had to spent some 5 hours to get oxidized vulcante stem back to it original shine, finally I got this fixed, after using the following methods,hand sanding, (/this would a been lasted for ever)Bleach treatment, no obvious help, then again all over sanding with various grit micromesh and finally had to go with dremel buffing wheels+white diamont past and then afterwards carnaunba,while I was strugging with this stem I started pondering why I'm spending my precious time doing all this shit,it would a been lots easier to send the pipe to the manufacturer(savinelli) and ask them to fit an Acrylic replacement stem which eventually would have doubled the original buying price for this mediocre estate pipes, now I'm pretty happy with the satisfactory results,nonetheless I'm starting to hate these vulcanite stems,they always got some problems,

    Posted 1 year ago #
  15. cwarmouth

    cwarmouth

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    How did this turn out? I also have done what Nevada suggested. Drilled it out and fit a delrin tube in place for a push type tenon.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  16. deleon

    deleon

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    Update
    I placed both pipes in the freezer for about 2 1/2 hours then used a small screw to get the tenon out and it worked! The tenon basically broke into pieces as I tried to turn the screw to get a grip. No damage to the pipe whatsoever! Thanks for the help everyone!

    Posted 1 year ago #
  17. jpmcwjr

    jpmcwjr

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    So, now what?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  18. deleon

    deleon

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    jpmcwjr, I order some replacement stems once they arrive I'll be sanding them down to fit the pipe and the shape. I bought these 2 pipes without stems at an antique store.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  19. jpmcwjr

    jpmcwjr

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    Great!

    Photos would be a plus.....

    Posted 1 year ago #

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