This is the text of the article I submitted to The Pipe Collector, which is
the publication of the NASPC. It was published in this issue for December 2010.
I hope you have as much fun reading it as I had in writing it. The NASPC web
site is http://www.naspc.org/
Celebration of the White Goddess
The road less traveled offers experience not found in the frequently taken routes of the majority and such has been my choice. The properties of the stone have held my attention as the means of enjoying Pipe blends with clarity of flavor simply not found with other materials used by Carvers in the creation of their Pipes. For centuries, these Pipes have provided the smoking experience which has held those lucky enough to have the use of them spellbound. This clay, with a needle like morphology, doesn’t burn and works well to dissipate heat, while being highly absorbent. The patina of a well seasoned Meerschaum Pipe is highly regarded and sought after by many in the dreamy hours spent smoking blends of the individual’s choice. Perhaps you have not discovered these pleasures and have been distracted by the wealth of hearsay that has been passed along as fact. My intent is to give you the knowledge of these Pipes, so that you can make your own decisions about your choices in acquiring and enjoying them.
I eschew the designation of ‘Expert’ and have no desire to become a persona in the Pipe community. I’m a student in these matters who has been fortunate enough to encounter people who’ve encouraged me to share this knowledge with those who will listen and want to learn. Two years ago, the Smoker’s Forum Team (http://www.smokersforums.co.uk/) asked me to start a group about Meerschaums…, I tried to weasel out of it. The result is the All Things Meerschaum Forum which has served to be a tool for gaining and sharing information from a variety of sources, including guys like me who enjoy smoking them, people who have an interest but lack knowledge, reputable sources for these fine Pipes, Carvers of Meerschaum and Meerschaum Pipe historians. The amount of information collected will provide hours profitably spent in reading for anyone who wants to learn. At the request of Kevin Godsbee, the owner of PipesMagazine.com, I wrote articles for him to publish. These articles are: The Meerschaum Pipe Experience which is a primer in the basics, The Thrill of the Hunt (A Guide to Estate Meerschaums) and Slave to the White Goddess, which discusses the finishes Carvers use, methods employed in coloring Meerschaums and waxing them. I thought this to be a good effort, as more than 30,000 readers have spent the time reading them. It was Steve Laug who suggested that I write an article for the Pipe Collector. He pointed out that a good number of people that read this publication don’t use the internet, which is something that I had overlooked, as I’m comfortable with the web and have made use of it for years. OK, so I’ve written this to see if there is an interest in Meerschaums in this community. I don’t offer my experiences as a guiding light for others to follow, but simply as things that I have learned and hope to pass along to those who are interested. For me, that is as good as it gets.
Recently, another Pipe smoker, who had read my articles and joined the All Things Meerschaum Group on Smoker’s Forum to read what’s come of the last two years of effort, sent me an e-mail. He talked about having become interested in Meerschaum Pipes again and found one in a box of Pipes stashed away in the attic. He put his new knowledge to good use in cleaning this old Meerschaum that had been forgotten years ago, and was quite pleased with the results. This is the real reason for my efforts to give others information they can use to make their own decisions. The choices are many, so it’s to your advantage to learn what these choices are. Dig those Meerschaums off the back racks or forgotten in a drawer and clean them up to smoke. Maybe you’ve been given some old Meerschaums or found some at an estate sale. Whether they are African Block or high grade Turkish Block Meerschaums, they can provide you with an excellent smoke and are worth the effort to clean up.
Starting this clean up begins with scraping the cake out of the bowl’s chamber with a sharp blunt tipped knife, down to the Block. Take your time and scrape instead of carve. Remove the bit and use a shank brush, Everclear and plenty of Pipe cleaners to get the sludge out that has been left in the Pipe from previous use. Next, use a doubled over Pipe cleaner with Everclear on it to swab out the bowl’s chamber, followed by a paper towel to soak up what has been left behind. Continue with this cleaning of the bowl and shank until the Pipe cleaners come back without the goo you’ve been getting out of the Block. Chances are that the outside of the Block is soiled and the plateau has a cake built up on it. Carefully scrape the cake after softening it up with Everclear on a clean white cotton cloth. You can scrape it down to the Block, but restoring the patina will take a long time. It’s better to leave a thin layer and address it with Beeswax applications, which will cause it to spread, becoming diffuse and incorporating it into the patina. Wiping the outside of the Block with Everclear on a clean white cotton cloth will get the grime and dirt off. Now, cold wax the Block by rubbing the Beeswax on it. You can wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper in an Everclear bath, but the patina restoration will take a long time. It’s best to avoid doing this and preserve what patina is present. This can be done with both African Block and Turkish Block but is best avoided with pressed Meerschaum, as the binder used to hold the dust and chips together will likely be compromised. You can wax the Block by applying melted Beeswax to the surface or removing the mortise in the shank and corking up the bowl and draft to place it in a container of melted Beeswax, but it is easier to apply the wax to the Pipe as it’s smoked. This will melt the Beeswax and the Block will absorb much of it. What is not absorbed can be wiped off using a clean white cotton cloth. Do not use the immersion technique if the Pipe has a bone screw connector. If you apply melted Beeswax to the surface, the excess is best removed using a heat gun or hairdryer, but the wax will make a mess as it gets blown off. If you are waxing a Lattice finish, it’s best to get the Beeswax that is not absorbed by the Block out of those holes before the wax hardens. If you are cleaning up an intricately carved Figural, you would do well to consider using Halcyon II, as there is no buffing involved. Both the Beeswax and Halcyon II serve to protect the Block’s surface. The Beeswax becomes involved in the migration of patina within the Block and on the surface. The results of coloration produced by using Beeswax will fade as the Pipe is smoked, but will become resident with continued smoking and waxing of the Pipe. Remember, if you use melted Beeswax for application or immersion, it is flammable and best kept from boiling and all of the fittings must be removed since the heat likely will melt them. Any moisture in the Block can turn to steam and you run the risk of cracking it with the heat.
Next, the bit should be cleaned with Everclear, a shank brush and plenty of Pipe cleaners. Heavily oxidized Vulcanite bits should be soaked in an Oxy-Clean solution for a few hours and then buffed. Amber is brittle, so the use of a shank brush is not advised. Acrylic is strong enough to use a shank brush on. After the bit has been cleaned, use some bit polish to provide a finish to protect the surface and display the full luster. Tooth marks can be raised on Acrylic and Vulcanite with the sparing use of a heat gun. This is slow work and the bit should not be allowed to become hot enough to bend. It is not advisable to use a heat gun with Amber bits. If the connector is a derlin push/pull, it’s advisable to replace both the mortise and the tenon. The mortise can be removed by inserting a tapered flat bladed screwdriver into the shank and turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Metal banding can be addressed with a good bit polish on both the bit and the Block. After cleaning, reassemble the Pipe and fire it up.
I recommend cleaning the Pipe after every smoke, using the same steps I’ve outlined. This is my choice since I believe that a clean Pipe delivers a top quality smoke. It’s a good way to flush any ghosts out a Pipe that has been previously owned. Once the Block is flushed of the residue of old fires, it will deliver the clarity of smoke that’s unknown to many people. Some pay little attention to cleaning their Pipes and are quite happy with this practice. They will also let the cake build as they would in a Briar. A Meerschaum can develop a black tar coating in the chamber that will impart a bitter quality to the smoke, so I work to prevent cake development. For me, it is this clarity of the smoking experience that Meerschaums can provide that keeps me interested in them. You should make your own choices about them. Just as everything about Pipes and tobacco blends is personal choice, so it is with cleaning and waxing Meerschaums. I’m from the old school of thought and avoid touching the Block, especially when it’s hot. If the Block will absorb Beeswax, it will also absorb anything that is on your hands. If you cover the Block with chamois, it will absorb the wax and the Pipe will not color. African Block has commonly been given a colored finish during production, so many handle them as they would a Briar. You can wax them by applying the Beeswax to the surface, using the heat of the smoke to melt the wax and it will absorb into the Block. The important thing is to smoke Meerschaums if you want to learn what you’ve been missing. It is the performance of these Pipes that makes them deserving of your time and effort. The development of patina is the most discussed topic when the discussion turns to Meerschaums, but it is really only another aspect of what they have to offer. Carvers have been creating Meerschaum Pipes for over 300 years for a relatively small part of the Pipe community, who have quietly enjoyed the celebrations of the White Goddess. I see no reason that you should be left out of these pleasures.
the publication of the NASPC. It was published in this issue for December 2010.
I hope you have as much fun reading it as I had in writing it. The NASPC web
site is http://www.naspc.org/
Celebration of the White Goddess
The road less traveled offers experience not found in the frequently taken routes of the majority and such has been my choice. The properties of the stone have held my attention as the means of enjoying Pipe blends with clarity of flavor simply not found with other materials used by Carvers in the creation of their Pipes. For centuries, these Pipes have provided the smoking experience which has held those lucky enough to have the use of them spellbound. This clay, with a needle like morphology, doesn’t burn and works well to dissipate heat, while being highly absorbent. The patina of a well seasoned Meerschaum Pipe is highly regarded and sought after by many in the dreamy hours spent smoking blends of the individual’s choice. Perhaps you have not discovered these pleasures and have been distracted by the wealth of hearsay that has been passed along as fact. My intent is to give you the knowledge of these Pipes, so that you can make your own decisions about your choices in acquiring and enjoying them.
I eschew the designation of ‘Expert’ and have no desire to become a persona in the Pipe community. I’m a student in these matters who has been fortunate enough to encounter people who’ve encouraged me to share this knowledge with those who will listen and want to learn. Two years ago, the Smoker’s Forum Team (http://www.smokersforums.co.uk/) asked me to start a group about Meerschaums…, I tried to weasel out of it. The result is the All Things Meerschaum Forum which has served to be a tool for gaining and sharing information from a variety of sources, including guys like me who enjoy smoking them, people who have an interest but lack knowledge, reputable sources for these fine Pipes, Carvers of Meerschaum and Meerschaum Pipe historians. The amount of information collected will provide hours profitably spent in reading for anyone who wants to learn. At the request of Kevin Godsbee, the owner of PipesMagazine.com, I wrote articles for him to publish. These articles are: The Meerschaum Pipe Experience which is a primer in the basics, The Thrill of the Hunt (A Guide to Estate Meerschaums) and Slave to the White Goddess, which discusses the finishes Carvers use, methods employed in coloring Meerschaums and waxing them. I thought this to be a good effort, as more than 30,000 readers have spent the time reading them. It was Steve Laug who suggested that I write an article for the Pipe Collector. He pointed out that a good number of people that read this publication don’t use the internet, which is something that I had overlooked, as I’m comfortable with the web and have made use of it for years. OK, so I’ve written this to see if there is an interest in Meerschaums in this community. I don’t offer my experiences as a guiding light for others to follow, but simply as things that I have learned and hope to pass along to those who are interested. For me, that is as good as it gets.
Recently, another Pipe smoker, who had read my articles and joined the All Things Meerschaum Group on Smoker’s Forum to read what’s come of the last two years of effort, sent me an e-mail. He talked about having become interested in Meerschaum Pipes again and found one in a box of Pipes stashed away in the attic. He put his new knowledge to good use in cleaning this old Meerschaum that had been forgotten years ago, and was quite pleased with the results. This is the real reason for my efforts to give others information they can use to make their own decisions. The choices are many, so it’s to your advantage to learn what these choices are. Dig those Meerschaums off the back racks or forgotten in a drawer and clean them up to smoke. Maybe you’ve been given some old Meerschaums or found some at an estate sale. Whether they are African Block or high grade Turkish Block Meerschaums, they can provide you with an excellent smoke and are worth the effort to clean up.
Starting this clean up begins with scraping the cake out of the bowl’s chamber with a sharp blunt tipped knife, down to the Block. Take your time and scrape instead of carve. Remove the bit and use a shank brush, Everclear and plenty of Pipe cleaners to get the sludge out that has been left in the Pipe from previous use. Next, use a doubled over Pipe cleaner with Everclear on it to swab out the bowl’s chamber, followed by a paper towel to soak up what has been left behind. Continue with this cleaning of the bowl and shank until the Pipe cleaners come back without the goo you’ve been getting out of the Block. Chances are that the outside of the Block is soiled and the plateau has a cake built up on it. Carefully scrape the cake after softening it up with Everclear on a clean white cotton cloth. You can scrape it down to the Block, but restoring the patina will take a long time. It’s better to leave a thin layer and address it with Beeswax applications, which will cause it to spread, becoming diffuse and incorporating it into the patina. Wiping the outside of the Block with Everclear on a clean white cotton cloth will get the grime and dirt off. Now, cold wax the Block by rubbing the Beeswax on it. You can wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper in an Everclear bath, but the patina restoration will take a long time. It’s best to avoid doing this and preserve what patina is present. This can be done with both African Block and Turkish Block but is best avoided with pressed Meerschaum, as the binder used to hold the dust and chips together will likely be compromised. You can wax the Block by applying melted Beeswax to the surface or removing the mortise in the shank and corking up the bowl and draft to place it in a container of melted Beeswax, but it is easier to apply the wax to the Pipe as it’s smoked. This will melt the Beeswax and the Block will absorb much of it. What is not absorbed can be wiped off using a clean white cotton cloth. Do not use the immersion technique if the Pipe has a bone screw connector. If you apply melted Beeswax to the surface, the excess is best removed using a heat gun or hairdryer, but the wax will make a mess as it gets blown off. If you are waxing a Lattice finish, it’s best to get the Beeswax that is not absorbed by the Block out of those holes before the wax hardens. If you are cleaning up an intricately carved Figural, you would do well to consider using Halcyon II, as there is no buffing involved. Both the Beeswax and Halcyon II serve to protect the Block’s surface. The Beeswax becomes involved in the migration of patina within the Block and on the surface. The results of coloration produced by using Beeswax will fade as the Pipe is smoked, but will become resident with continued smoking and waxing of the Pipe. Remember, if you use melted Beeswax for application or immersion, it is flammable and best kept from boiling and all of the fittings must be removed since the heat likely will melt them. Any moisture in the Block can turn to steam and you run the risk of cracking it with the heat.
Next, the bit should be cleaned with Everclear, a shank brush and plenty of Pipe cleaners. Heavily oxidized Vulcanite bits should be soaked in an Oxy-Clean solution for a few hours and then buffed. Amber is brittle, so the use of a shank brush is not advised. Acrylic is strong enough to use a shank brush on. After the bit has been cleaned, use some bit polish to provide a finish to protect the surface and display the full luster. Tooth marks can be raised on Acrylic and Vulcanite with the sparing use of a heat gun. This is slow work and the bit should not be allowed to become hot enough to bend. It is not advisable to use a heat gun with Amber bits. If the connector is a derlin push/pull, it’s advisable to replace both the mortise and the tenon. The mortise can be removed by inserting a tapered flat bladed screwdriver into the shank and turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Metal banding can be addressed with a good bit polish on both the bit and the Block. After cleaning, reassemble the Pipe and fire it up.
I recommend cleaning the Pipe after every smoke, using the same steps I’ve outlined. This is my choice since I believe that a clean Pipe delivers a top quality smoke. It’s a good way to flush any ghosts out a Pipe that has been previously owned. Once the Block is flushed of the residue of old fires, it will deliver the clarity of smoke that’s unknown to many people. Some pay little attention to cleaning their Pipes and are quite happy with this practice. They will also let the cake build as they would in a Briar. A Meerschaum can develop a black tar coating in the chamber that will impart a bitter quality to the smoke, so I work to prevent cake development. For me, it is this clarity of the smoking experience that Meerschaums can provide that keeps me interested in them. You should make your own choices about them. Just as everything about Pipes and tobacco blends is personal choice, so it is with cleaning and waxing Meerschaums. I’m from the old school of thought and avoid touching the Block, especially when it’s hot. If the Block will absorb Beeswax, it will also absorb anything that is on your hands. If you cover the Block with chamois, it will absorb the wax and the Pipe will not color. African Block has commonly been given a colored finish during production, so many handle them as they would a Briar. You can wax them by applying the Beeswax to the surface, using the heat of the smoke to melt the wax and it will absorb into the Block. The important thing is to smoke Meerschaums if you want to learn what you’ve been missing. It is the performance of these Pipes that makes them deserving of your time and effort. The development of patina is the most discussed topic when the discussion turns to Meerschaums, but it is really only another aspect of what they have to offer. Carvers have been creating Meerschaum Pipes for over 300 years for a relatively small part of the Pipe community, who have quietly enjoyed the celebrations of the White Goddess. I see no reason that you should be left out of these pleasures.
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